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Hufficon RV Mods

Posted 04-21-2017 at 12:46 PM by Hufficon
Updated 04-25-2017 at 08:45 PM by Hufficon (fix picture)

Okay, so I bought a new to us 2003 Newmar Scottsdale 3257, and since nothing is ever built to Hufficon standards I need to bring it up to "code". First I guess I should let you know a little about Hufficon, well, it's my Jeep. I fell in love with Jeeps back in the 60's but it was in the early 80's before I found one I could afford. I found an old 1953 CJ-3B that I bought off of my uncle-in-law for $1000. Okay that's not Hufficon. The deal is I ended up (after several Jeeps) with my current one, a 97 TJ sport. Well then Jeep introduced the Rubicon a few years later and I wanted one. Problem was I had a Jeep that was perfectly good and I figured I could build one better than Jeep could anyway. I went out and got a lift kit and a slip yolk eliminator and some helical gear limited slip differentials, found some 4.11 gears out of a 4 cylinder Jeep and the build was on. After it out climbed and out mudded all the stock stuff and a lot of pretty modified stuff, it was time for a name. Well Jeep already used Rubicon and since my name is Huffstutler we came up with Hufficon. I had a friend in the sign making business so we chose a font that looked like Rubicon and made some hood decals. The rest is history. More on Jeeps later this is supposed to be about my Motor home Mods.

These are in no particular order, mostly cause I'm scatter-brained and really just don't care.
First is a kitchen drawer mod. Most of the stuff I do should have been done in the first place.

This is a before, during, and after description of my project.

This is where it started. 4 of the same width drawers (when closed).





I screwed up and opened the drawers!
Then I took them out.





The problem was the sink prevented the top drawers from being full width. But the only thing in the way of the second drawer was the drain. The drain shouldn't have been that big of a problem at the factory because it was offset to the center of the right sink basin. The only thing really in the way was this piece in the cabinet frame they had to add to make the drawer narrower.





Here is a view from behind the frame with a screwdriver in one of the screw locations. The screws are best removed with a square bit but a phillips will work.





Here is the piece turned around so you can see the pocket holes where the screws were a little clearer. Two holes each on the top and bottom and one hole in the side.





Here is the difference in the two drawer sizes before before I applied the Hufficon technique. It is a couple of inches.





This is the difference in the drawer slides. I have already taken the second drawer slide loose and it is laying on top of the third wider slide. (No flames please. If I had to clean out the drawers I probably wouldn't have done the mod)





Here is the sink drain I need to avoid. I made the second drawer about a 1/4" narrower than the third drawer. At this width the second drawer slide has plenty of clearance. The top edge of the drawer just touches the collar on the drain pipe. If you try you can feel it when you close the drawer. If you just close the drawer you will never notice it. You can see the top drawer slide at the right of the picture.





Here is a comparison of the two drawer slides. Drawer 2 and drawer 3. The piece of wood that attaches to the wall is still on drawer 2 slide.





Drawer 2 slide now on a wider board and attached to the wall at the back of the cabinet. I used screws instead of staples to attach the slide to the board and just made it 1/4" narrower than the slide on drawer 3.





Here is the front of the drawer slide with a shim behind it to make up for the 1/4 narrower drawer. You can see the two screw holes from the blocking I removed to widen the hole.





I got this far before I realized that I can't find the pictures of the drawer building. I do have a picture of the finished drawer though.
All you need to replace is the front, rear, and bottom of the drawer box. I just made them 1/4" shorter (narrower) than drawer 3 and made a wider bottom to fit. The front and rear of the box will need a slot cut to match the slot in the sides and allow for that when you cut the bottom. The bottom of the drawer fits in these slots.
Here is the finished drawer. You can see that my wood was a little thicker on the front and rear. The original was the same thickness as the sides.





Original drawer.





Finished product now meeting Hufficon specs.


Next will be the front TV storage area -- Coming Soon!
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