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Kar Kaddy SS 460

Posted 10-19-2019 at 12:30 PM by ret60sp

After noticing that the tow vehicle was not tracking directly behind us in a braking action - it was moving out about 6-8 inches - indicating that one of the dolly brakes was braking harder than the other, it was time for an inspection.

Paying attention to the wear pattern on the brake rotors - one side was no making a full contact with the brake rotor so this made me pull a wheel and take a closer look at the pad wear.

The inspection revealed the outside pads on both wheels were worn to within a 1/16th inch of pad remaining, while the interior pad (the pad sitting against the piston) still had not word down to the wear indicator slot shown. This condition was on both wheels.

The problem is it is very difficult to see the exterior pad wear indicators on the brake pads of the Kar Kaddy.

One might think that replacing the pads is an option, but from the way these are designed, it would be very difficult to remove the exterior sided pads from the caliper.

As it was, both caliper pistons were leaking and it was more cost effective to replace the entire caliper, which come with new pads.

The new calipers have very weak brass connectors on them, so be prepared to use the hardware from the OEM calipers in the event you crack one of the brass connectors. The brake bleeders are NOT THE SAME size as the OEM calipers, so it is advisable to remove the bleeder needle and place several wraps of yellow teflon tape (designed for propane gas fittings) around the threaded sides of the bleeder screws and reattach them. The teflon tape will help with preventing air from getting back into the caliper during the bleeding process.

The bleeding process is best accomplished with a pump up brake bleeder canister made by "Motive Products". Before you begin, use a large syringe to suck out the old brake fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir and use new fluid to refill it. The Motive Products brake bleeder looks like a pump up sprayer that you might use for killing weeds, but it is much smaller and designed for bleeding brakes and hydraulic systems. It makes the procedure a ONE person job.

I recommend using DOT4 fluid, because it is designed for much higher temperatures, and any RV'er knows that a downhill tow on a steep mountainside will tax the dolly brakes pretty heavily and make things get pretty hot. So its advisable to use the better fluid.

I caught the brakes before any damage happened to the rotors. I inspected both sides and sanded off the flaky part of the rust around the edge of the rotor, measured then with a caliper and ensured they were still within spec.

Now is a good time to inspect the sealed wheel bearings for any noise in rotation or any play or looseness.

Pull your emergency brake disconnect to ensure it activates the calipers with sufficient force to stop the rotation. If that seems the same on both sides, release it to ensure neither caliper sticks, reinstall the wheels and call it a job finished.


'Safe Travels-
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