12v Receptacles

[duramr]

Time again to tap the vast knowledge of the forum's members.
I have lost power to the cigarette lighter. I don't smoke but I do use the receptacle to power a 12v air compressor. This is 20 amp circuit - the fuse is good - the compressor has an inline 10 amp fuse, also good. I last used the compressor from the lighter receptacle on Sunday - all went well.
I have inspected under the dash for burned wires - all's well.
A couple items worthy of note: the cigarette lighter does not work, the compressor works fine when running from my truck and I never run the compressor without running the engine.
Any ideas ?
Merry Christmas and have a safe and Happy New Year.

Mark
02' Itasca Sunrise 32V
Workhorse P32, 8.1

[duramr]

Time again to tap the vast knowledge of the forum's members.
I have lost power to the cigarette lighter. I don't smoke but I do use the receptacle to power a 12v air compressor. This is 20 amp circuit - the fuse is good - the compressor has an inline 10 amp fuse, also good. I last used the compressor from the lighter receptacle on Sunday - all went well.
I have inspected under the dash for burned wires - all's well.
A couple items worthy of note: the cigarette lighter does not work, the compressor works fine when running from my truck and I never run the compressor without running the engine.
Any ideas ?
Merry Christmas and have a safe and Happy New Year.

Mark
02' Itasca Sunrise 32V
Workhorse P32, 8.1

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by duramr:
Any ideas ?
Merry Christmas and have a safe and Happy New Year.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Mark, The problem more than likely is a bad ground. Get a test 12volt test light and attach the alligator clip to a metal surface that you know is grounded. (most metal in RVs is grounded) Probe the center pin in the socket, if the lamp lights then you know that you have 12v and the fact that all your fuses are good will justify this.

Now touch the side of the lighter socket with the alligator clip and then probe the center pin in the socket again. If the lamp does not light, you have a bad ground. I found a bad ground in our motorhome in the right side passenger's arm rest. The push-on spade clip fell off the outer shell of the socket. Most 12 v power points are mounted in plastic in RVs so you absolutely want to make sure that you have an excellent ground.

Happy Holidays to you to!

<font color=blue>03 Winnebago 38G/Workhorse W22 "¢ 22.5" Tire "¢ Adventurer
02 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LS
Aventa II "¢ Brake Buddy
Nor'Easters
"We Will "¢ 343 "¢ Never Forget"</font color>

<font color=red>88 "¢ Robert Yates Racing "¢ 38
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[duramr]

DriVer, thanks for your quick response. I don't have a 12v test light but I just got through testing what I could with a multimeter. On this circuit, at the fuse block, the meter read 11.4-11.6 volts. I pulled the leads from the socket and checked them - nada. I changed the fuse and tested again with the same results.
It points to wiring, yes??

Mark
02' Itasca Sunrise 32V
Workhorse P32, 8.1

[CAD-Man]

If you have two 12v receptacles, both are fused separately but if a fuse blows in one, you can read feedback voltage in the other one. What makes me suspect this is the problem, is the voltage you are reading 11.4v to 11.6v. The reading should be 12.5 to 12.8 volts depending on the state of charge on the batteries. If you are plugged into shore power the voltage should be 13 plus volts. If you do not have multi 12v receptacles, then I'm all wet, but still the voltage you are reading is too low. It should be over 12VDC.

cad_man

2003 Newmar Kountry Star KSCA3301
Workhorse W22, Vortec 8.1L, Allison 5 Speed
Koni Shocks, Super Steer Track Bar, Davis TruTrack, Safe-T-Plus
FMCA 322927
KG6JIY

[duramr]

Good morn and Merry Christmas Cad_man, I should have been a bit more succinct when replying to DriVer. The voltage I reported was with ignition off. With the engine running the meter read 13.5+-v at the fuse block. I checked 2 of the other 3 accessory 12 v receptacles, they are unaffected as power is supplied by the house batteries.
When tracing the leads from the cig lighter - they disappear into large wiring harnesses which I don't see at the fuse block. The leads are coded KF1 and LS2. The thought of tearing apart the harness is not something I relish.

Mark
02' Itasca Sunrise 32V
Workhorse P32, 8.1

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by duramr:
I pulled the leads from the socket and checked them - nada... It points to wiring, yes??<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Understand this is the dash mounted cigar lighter? If you can't meter any power from the wire connected to the tip of the socket then you certainly do have a wiring problem. (maybe)

There are 2 fuse blocks to check, one under the hood and one under the dash. Quite possibly you're looking at the wrong fuse position or the cig lighter is fused from some other place and not properly marked. It is unlikely that there would be no power to the 12v+ wire going to the lighter because of an open condition in the harness but keep checking.

If there is NO power to the 12volt+ line on the socket tip try using an ohm meter and see if you either get an infinite reading or a zero reading. Zero means the wire is shorted. Open or infinite means that the line feeding the plug is open or broken.

Merry Christmas ....

<font color=blue>03 Winnebago 38G/Workhorse W22 "¢ 22.5" Tire "¢ Adventurer
02 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LS
Aventa II "¢ Brake Buddy
Nor'Easters
"We Will "¢ 343 "¢ Never Forget"</font color>

<font color=red>88 "¢ Robert Yates Racing "¢ 38
</font color>

[Cruzer]

Mark,

I'm not quite sure how the Sunrise compares to the Suncruiser but here's how my 'cruiser is set up:

There are two 12 volt outlets. One is in the dash and the other is in the passenger side armrest. They are both fed from the same fuse under the dash by dual #12 yellow wires. This fuse block is powered up by a pair of #10 blue wires via a pass-through stud on the driver's side firewall. This stud is fed by the coach batteries and not the chassis batteries as I initially thought. I found this out one time when I blew the fuse waving things around under the dash. Also, my wiring diagram shows that there is a connector on the bottom of the fuse box which snaps on.

In this case I would check for voltage at the other 12 VDC power outlet. If that one has no power either I would look at the base of the fuse block to see what went wrong. It could be a loose connector or even a single pin that pulled out of the connector. If the armrest outlet is hot but the dash one isn't, then I'd pull the wire off the dash receptacle and check for power. If present - it's the receptacle itself. If not - it's time to start working your way back to see where the wire went bad.

Of course if your Sunrise doesn't have two receptacles this won't help you much. But I'm betting they're similar. Hope this helps.

Mark & Leann Quasius
2003 Suncruiser 33V - Workhorse W20
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Toad

[buster]

Buster suggests that when testing fuses, use the ohm resistance selection on your volt,amp, tester and try for a continuity test. Visual test of fuses may not show a blown fuse.

[RKL2]

Might suggest a shortcut....tap a wire into the fuse assembly for the current cigarette lighter and another wire to a ground...then attatch the 2 wires to the rear of the lighter assembly and see if it works...if it does, wiring is definitly the problem...rather than going into the wire harness, hook up proper sze wires to the fuse box and one to a good ground and be on your way...your compressor may not of blown your fuse but sustained use could melt an undersized wire...good luck RKL

RKL
2002 Journey DL 36GD

[duramr]

Mystery solved. Mark, you were right. While on site for a week after Christmas, I decided to check the cigarette lighter for voltage. Sure enough - while on shore power - the lighter had power. Proving that power is provided by the house batteries.
Thanks to everyone for your reponses.

Mark
02' Itasca Sunrise 32V
Workhorse P32, 8.1

[Freddy]

I cannot keep fuses in my cigar lighter. There are two, both under the dash. They are near one another, with one labeled "chassis block" (or some such) higher up under the dash. It is a 25 amp while the lower block is a 20 amp. The 20 never blows, but the 25 will blow when any power is taken from the cigar lighter. I've gone up to 30 amps in the upper block, with same results.

I might try rewiring if a simple cut and dried job. Also need to check if fuse blows at 12vdc power plug on passenger side.

Are there any other 12vdc power connections that I'm not aware of?

[Freddy]

Well, I finally got around to working on the cigar lighter. I checked for proper grounding, proper voltage, etc., and each time I get upwards of 14vdc.

The circuit will power various other 12vdc items, but not the cigar lighter. Whenever I push it in the fuse blows.

When I check across the lighter itself, it shows that the center (hot part) coil and ground are continious.

This is a new lighter, and works properly in my car and truck.

Anyone have any ideas?

[troth]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">When I check across the lighter itself, it shows that the center (hot part) coil and ground are continious. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Freddy, if I hear you right, it sounds like there's a dead short (you have continuity between the center element and the outer ground shell). Try another cig. lighter element.