1996 Vectra Drivers Window motor faulty

[z06dubbs]

Anyone ever replaced the window motor in a 1996 Vectra? The Window did not want to go back up and was very slow in doing so, I suspect the motor is going bad or already bad.

[Good man]

z06dubbs,
While I have not replaced a window lift motor for this particular application... I have replaced a number of window lift motors across a broad spectrum of vehicles. NONE of them was any fun at all. Some of them dang near required sutures and a transfusion.

What I have learned the hard way is that you want to be absolutely CERTAIN that a motor MUST be replaced to restore the operation to an acceptable level.

There is an axiom at play in all things mechanical (and a few things anatomical)... "Use it or lose it." Meaning that if something is not used frequently enough, it will tend to corrode, become unresponsive, and generally fail to perform. Enough said.

Not knowing whether you are a full-timer, part-timer or otherwise having no gauge of how often your window lift is used, this may or may not apply to you. It is certainly within the realm of possibility that you have used your window lift enough to have worn it out, and you will thus be compelled to replace it. HOWEVER:

Many times, I have had some friend or relative complain that the rear windows "don't work" on their family beater... while the front windows work fine. Oftentimes, they seldom have passengers in the back seat and the windows are cycled very infrequently.

In these cases, if the window button is energized (either from the driver's panel or from the door itself in an automobile) ..a dimming of the dome light will indicate that the button(s) is/are working properly and the motor is getting current, but failing to operate. Bear in mind that with the considerable amperage available from your MH chassis battery, it may not be obvious by the cockpit light dimming that the motor is energized but failing to spin. In a MH you will perhaps need to verify that full voltage is getting to the motor by using a multimeter and probing the wires to the motor.

Either way, if the motor is getting voltage but does not spin, the following "fix" will sometimes overcome a "dead spot" on the armature of the motor:

Confirm that the ignition switch is "ON" or "ACC" ...delivering current and that no "child window lock-out" is activated (in automobiles). Then, while holding the button in the correct position to either lower a closed window or raise an open window... open the door and slam (within reason) the door shut repeatedly.... keeping it energized throughout the entire process.

This will sometimes break a bit of corrosion between the brushes and armature, or sometimes it will reveal a point in the wiring harness through the door jamb where the wires are intermittent.

If you are lucky enough to get some life back into the window lift, it is likely that the motor will not repeatedly center on a "dead spot" either at the top or bottom of the cycle, owing to a design-induced arrangement of the drive and driven gear which randomizes the motor "bite" on the gears.

One final thing is to use lithium grease to reduce the resistance on the lift arms, window channels and gears.

What is obvious at this point is that, "You must USE it or LOSE it." ...by cycling elecrric windows frequently.

I hope this brings your window lift motor back to life.
All the best,
Jim