Community Forums

jmarr1 · 01-23-2014, 09:57 PM

Hi JBMSR
Where did you find the swivel mount for your TV. I would like to change mine and our friends with a 2014 Tour 42QD are interested as well. He contacted Winnebago and they were unable to provide any information about the swivel mount.

Jbmsr · 01-25-2014, 07:13 AM

Hi jmarr1
I found the RV-crim-art-42 RV /Motorhome Ultra Thin Articulating TV Bracket 16-42' at WallMount World for $200.01 after shipping. Installed correctly works absolutely amazing! I will share install tips if desired.

Jesse

www.wallmountworld.com

Finhawk · 01-25-2014, 10:45 AM

Fantastic, Jessie . That's gonna be my next project. It should help do away with the irritating glare

Finhawk · 01-25-2014, 10:47 AM

Sorry I misspelled your name
Bruce

jmarr1 · 01-25-2014, 05:41 PM

Jesse
Thanks for the follow-up on the black tank sensor problem as well as the information about the swivel mount for the TV. Not sure if I'm ready to tackle the Muriatic Acid solution just yet. I'm currently parked until April and will try the dishwasher enzyme and driving / sloshing method when we move on and see if that resolves it. If there are any special tips for the swivel mount install please share. Thanks again, Joe

Finhawk · 01-25-2014, 05:47 PM

A question Jesse. How does the TV come out of there? All I see on mine is 2 screws at the top. Does it just slip into the bottom of the existing mount. It looks like a very easy installation
Thanks
Bruce

Jbmsr · 01-25-2014, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finhawk

A question Jesse. How does the TV come out of there? All I see on mine is 2 screws at the top. Does it just slip into the bottom of the existing mount. It looks like a very easy installation
Thanks
Bruce

My bracket had three screws at the top and the tv slid up and out. Knowing where to drill your first whole for the top of the mount is important. The rest is a breeze. I used rivets. The tv needs to be at the same hight as original to work best.

Jesse

Finhawk · 01-25-2014, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr

My bracket had three screws at the top and the tv slid up and out. Knowing where to drill your first whole for the top of the mount is important. The rest is a breeze. I used rivets. The tv needs to be at the same hight as original to work best.

Jesse

Did you center the bracket both horizontally and vertically? Your box looks like it's the same as mine.

Jbmsr · 01-25-2014, 09:16 PM

I mounted the mount to the tv and realized that when the mount was in the closed positions the three mounting hole were off center by 2 and 15/16". I measured to get the center vertical line in the tv box. I then measured to the right of that Line the 2 and 15/16" and marked a final vertical line with a pencil. I measured the clearance from the top of the molding to the top of the tv before I removed the tv and got 1 and 11/16" so I knew I could add that distance to the distance between the top mounting hole and the top of the tv with the mount and tv connected and this distance would be my horizontal line in the tv box. I drilled at the cross of the two lines for my top rivet. After pop riveting the top the mount has a built in level so you can level the coach and set the level and then drill your other holes.
Heck I should have just listed my two measurements to give you my first drilling coordinates. I would sure think it would be the same.
Jesse

Finhawk · 01-26-2014, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr

I mounted the mount to the tv and realized that when the mount was in the closed positions the three mounting hole were off center by 2 and 15/16". I measured to get the center vertical line in the tv box. I then measured to the right of that Line the 2 and 15/16" and marked a final vertical line with a pencil. I measured the clearance from the top of the molding to the top of the tv before I removed the tv and got 1 and 11/16" so I knew I could add that distance to the distance between the top mounting hole and the top of the tv with the mount and tv connected and this distance would be my horizontal line in the tv box. I drilled at the cross of the two lines for my top rivet. After pop riveting the top the mount has a built in level so you can level the coach and set the level and then drill your other holes. Heck I should have just listed my two measurements to give you my first drilling coordinates. I would sure think it would be the same. Jesse

Thanks, that helps a lot. I just ordered one. We're going to the WIT Rally in Cashmere, Wa in May so there should be some interest shown there. And maybe I'll have the only one. LOL

Jbmsr · 01-26-2014, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finhawk

Thanks, that helps a lot. I just ordered one. We're going to the WIT Rally in Cashmere, Wa in May so there should be some interest shown there. And maybe I'll have the only one. LOL

LOL, unless I show up! Just kidding I can't come. I am happy for you. You will love it. You will need:

2-4' HDMI cables (Staples for quality)
2-HDMI couplings (Home Depot)
1- 3' coaxial cable (Home Depot)
1- coaxial barrel coupling (Home Depot)
1-3' Audio extension (Home Depot)
1-bag of small black zip ties (also use them to tie the HDMI couplings together) (Home Depot)
1-bag of stick on wire connectors (only used 1 of them) (Home Depot)
1-auto wire cover (pep boys sells it in a 47" section)

Note:

Excess wire will slide onto wall.

This mount has a clip at full retraction for added security. I don't use that for the following reason:
Mounted correctly when the tv is stowed the bottom of the tv rests on the factory rubber seal and looks original. The bracket is stiff enough to hold the tv into place. You can push the tv in about an inch more and it will lock into place but it puts too much stress on the tv and to me it didn't look original.

Jesse