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Old 10-15-2019, 11:03 AM   #1
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2016 Vista 31T hotwater problem

Water is hot as normal it's just that we don't have as much as before. This happens on gas or electric. I've searched other forums but haven't seen anyone with this problem.
Water heater is an Atwood.
Thanks, Don
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Old 10-15-2019, 06:20 PM   #2
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WH Tank Bypass leaking thru diluting the Hot out

Shower (inside or outside) not turmed off via hot/cold knobs but juts with button on shower handle----allows cold to mix with hot inside the shower faucet diluting the hot



Does flow remain the same when water turns warm?
If flow decreases......check valve on WH Tank cold in or hot out restricting flow








*** If water is heating normally......then ALL of the water in WH Tank is getting hot.
Can't just heat some and not the other.


Cold Water is diluting the HOT.
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Old 10-16-2019, 11:57 AM   #3
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The bath shower and the one in the compartment are off. Where we were last weekend the water was very cold. My local rv store said when your hooked up to electricity should leave the gas on to supplement the electric power. Never heard of this.
Gonna start by flushing the tank and go from there.

Thanks for the suggestions, Don
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Old 10-16-2019, 11:58 AM   #4
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Forgot to mention that there is no decrease in flow when the water turns cold.
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Old 10-16-2019, 12:18 PM   #5
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Might be a check valve allowing cold water to mix with hot water
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:10 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by dbord View Post
The bath shower and the one in the compartment are off. Where we were last weekend the water was very cold. My local rv store said when your hooked up to electricity should leave the gas on to supplement the electric power. Never heard of this.
Gonna start by flushing the tank and go from there.

Thanks for the suggestions, Don

Electric is the slowest for heat recovery
6.2 gal per HOUR based on 70*F initial water supply temp

Propane is faster....10 gal per HOUR based on that same 70*F temp water

Propane and electric together is fastest recovery rate at 16 gal per HOUR



Very cold inlet water just means it takes LONG to heat the water.....
thermostat does not shutoff heating via time....it is via temp and electric or propane will heat to same temp.


Now if the supply water was COLD and you were using just electric....it heated the water to the thermostat cut off BUT as soon as you open a faucet Hotside the COLD supply water is going to rush in and drop tank water temp
Especially if COLD inlet dip tube fell off.

(Or you used the hot water before thermostat shutoff heating )




COLD supply..use electric & Propane
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:37 PM   #7
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Like Old-Biscuit said, if the incoming water is really cold, run the water heater with both electric and gas. I do it this way when it's cold and also when DW and I are taking showers.
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Old 10-17-2019, 11:26 AM   #8
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Sounds like the rv tech I talked to was correct. Have a trip planned in Nov. so will do the elec/gas suggested.
We have had this coach for 3 years and haven't had this problem before, makes me wonder.
Thanks for the help, Don
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Old 10-17-2019, 01:51 PM   #9
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Scaled/calcified element will still heat the water but will take MUCH longer
Add in the COLD supply temp .....


Either you were using the HOT water BEFORE element completed fully heating it to t-stat set point
OR COLD supply was causing the HOT to be quickly diluted when using the hot water


Hard to notice when element turns off via t-stat as it is silent operation.
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Old 10-17-2019, 10:27 PM   #10
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Not 100% sure what you mean by not as much Hot water? If you don't get as much hot water as you use to get then your tank is not filling up fully with water. Try this, first make sure that the gas and electric are off. Turn on the pump or be hooked up to city water, then go outside to the back of the water heater and open thee relief valve. Keep this open until water start to flow out. Oh just encase you didn't understand about turning off the water heater, basically make sure the water in it is cold so you don't get burned by hot water.
I tell you to do this because over time if you don't burb the water heater the volume in it gets less and less, thus you run out of hot water much sooner and the eater heater cannot keep up.
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Old 10-17-2019, 10:58 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by SuperGewl View Post
Not 100% sure what you mean by not as much Hot water? If you don't get as much hot water as you use to get then your tank is not filling up fully with water. Try this, first make sure that the gas and electric are off. Turn on the pump or be hooked up to city water, then go outside to the back of the water heater and open thee relief valve. Keep this open until water start to flow out. Oh just encase you didn't understand about turning off the water heater, basically make sure the water in it is cold so you don't get burned by hot water.
I tell you to do this because over time if you don't burb the water heater the volume in it gets less and less, thus you run out of hot water much sooner and the eater heater cannot keep up.

Actually the opposite....
AN Air Pocket forms in top of tank....RV or residential,
The Air Pocket is there to control increases in pressure ----water Swells when heated. W/O air pocket pressure will increase cause water can not be compressed.


Opening the T&P Relief Valve WITH water supply OFF will re-establish the Air Pocket.
Opening the T&P Relief Valve with with water supply ON will dislodge the Air Pocket.


10 gal tank is still 10 gallon tank same with 6 gal is still 6 gallon.
Capacity is measurement of water level up to the HOT out DIP tube.


With water supply ON and a faucet hotside open the water heater tank will fill to the HOT DIP tube level and no further.
The level will NOT decrese unless cold inlet is closed and tank drained.




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Old 10-18-2019, 11:03 AM   #12
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Just put the motorhome in storage for a couple of weeks. Will try your suggestions when we bring it home.
Thanks for the tips, Don
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