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06-08-2010, 08:14 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern Oklahoma
Posts: 1,515
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Some times my patio awning won't move when the in/out switch is pushed. If I flip the in/out switch a time or two the awning will work. It seems to be taking more flips of the in/out switch as time goes by to get the awning to either extend or retract. Does this sound like a switch problem (the one at the entry door) or is the motor on the awning getting ready to crap out on me?
Thanks for any help. (Before I extend it sometime and then it won't retract)
Wagonmaster2
2004 Meridian 36G
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06-09-2010, 06:24 AM
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#2
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pima az
Posts: 76
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If you have an ohm meter you can unplug the wires from the switch and test for continuity. If this proves good, then check the motor.
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06-09-2010, 09:28 AM
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#3
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Community Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Litchfield Park, Arizona
Posts: 5,110
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It sure sounds like the switch but mine also balks when my coach batteries are low. I wonder if spraying some contact cleaner into the switch would help.
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Rick, Nancy, Peanut & Lola our Westie Dogs & Bailey the Sheltie.
2007 Itasca Ellipse 40FD
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06-09-2010, 09:32 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: San Diego County, CA
Posts: 362
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You do have another option. In your compartment should be the control for the awning with another deploy switch on it. Then there is the remote (maybe you do not have the remote). Anyway from what to describe it very likely could be the switch failure.
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Steve & Leslie
Winnebago Adventurer 38T
Honda CR-V "Toad" w/Falcon 2 towbar
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06-09-2010, 12:25 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern Oklahoma
Posts: 1,515
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Thanks for all the replys. I have already turned off the wind sensor in case it was causing problems but I never thought to use the switch in the compartment nor the remote (which I'm sure I have someplace). Hope the problem is in the switch, I'm sure that will be easier to remedy than the awning motor.
Wagonmaster2
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06-09-2010, 12:34 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, Florida
Posts: 6,926
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Hi wagonmaster2,
Comparing the control box switch performance with the interior wall switch performance is a good way to determine the next step. FYI, if the remote controls the awning over the entry door, consider putting it in the toad glove box. This way one can leave the awning retracted when away from the coach. If when returning to the coach, there is inclement weather, use the remote to extend the awning that covers the door. This can be done from insider your toad.
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Gary
2005 Newmar KSDP 3910,
The Avatar Is Many Times Around The USA
Nobody Knows Your Coach Like Somebody Who Owns One Just Like Yours
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06-09-2010, 12:50 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern Oklahoma
Posts: 1,515
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Good idea Gary, I was wondering why a person would ever need an awning remote.
Just checked the awning again using the control box in the storage compartment and located the remote and tried it. Everything works like it should except the switch at the entry door so that must be where the problem is. I've been having intermittent dead instrument panel gauges on the coach since it was new 6 years ago and Freightliner hasn't been able to find the problem (usually nowhere near a shop when they go dead but are working fine the next day before I can get to the shop) so shouldn't be surprised at any other electrical problems.
Really appreciate all the suggestions, I had just about got to the point where I was afraid to run the awning out here in the campground in Colorado. A long ways to home if it wouldn't retract.
Wagonmaster2
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06-09-2010, 01:00 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Coastal Campers Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cicero, NY
Posts: 1,045
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There are several threads about these. Here is just one Weatherpro Awning intermittent operation Ours does the same dance. We do have the remote and it is a neat toy but you certainly could get along without it. Ours will only retract a little at a time under certain conditions like it is wet, hot out or it is a Wednesday  The cause as I understand it is that the motor is overheating and it has a safety feature that uses a thermal switch to shut it off and possibly the spring needs to have another couple of turns to make it tighter to prevent this.
Going out it seems to be better with gravity in its favor.
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Mark & Nancy
2004 Winnebago Vectra 40KD
Kenzie and Shep dogs Toad 94 Geo Tracker (The clown car)
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06-09-2010, 04:41 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sun City West, Arizona
Posts: 131
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This isn't exactly on the subject, but both awning motors are tied through the ignition switch. One day my awnings wouldn't roll out and I discovered that I had left the ignition switch on "accessory" position to lower the HWH jacks. If the ignition switch is either in the "accessory" or "on" position the awning motors will not operate. It's a safety interlock so you cannot put the awnings out while going down the road.
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2004 Itasca Meridian 34H
2010 Chevrolet Equinox
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06-12-2010, 10:54 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Antioch CA
Posts: 123
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I had the same problem. To retract the awning I had to take the cover plate off the control box in the left bay next to the entry door. Inside the control box I found a red reset button that was not accessable from the out side of the box. I pushed it and the switches have worked ever since. I have left the philips head screw driver in the bay just incase it happens again.
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2003 Itasca Suncruiser 33V
8.1 GMC, Workhorse, Allison, Koni's
2004 Honda Element toad
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06-15-2010, 10:25 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Northern California
Posts: 15
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Suddenly I can't extend/retract my A&E Awning unless connected to a 110v line. I'll have to look into the reset button in tha control box mentioned previously. Batteries are fully charged.
I always retract 1/3 and pause for a motor cool. 12v DC motors can get really hot under load.
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'06 V33 Adventurer
Brazle's UltraPower & RoadMaster SwayBar
'05 Envoy & BrakePro
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06-15-2010, 01:30 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: San Diego County, CA
Posts: 362
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Do you have the parking break set on? I found that things like slides, jacks and awnings will not work unless your break is set.
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Steve & Leslie
Winnebago Adventurer 38T
Honda CR-V "Toad" w/Falcon 2 towbar
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06-15-2010, 03:04 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Coastal Campers Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cicero, NY
Posts: 1,045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC-Bum
I always retract 1/3 and pause for a motor cool. 12v DC motors can get really hot under load.
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This seems to be a problem for a lot of the WeatherPro awnings and we should not have to deal with it. If the motor is getting hot enough to cause the awning to stop retracting either the motor is not big enough or it needs some kind of cooling like a fan.
Not working without 110 is another issue. Like Stevegd007 said I would check the parking brake and also make sure the ignition key is not on. After that unless it has a tremendous draw on power a decently charged battery system should work no problem.
Anyone know if the awnings typically work off the house or engine batteries?
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Mark & Nancy
2004 Winnebago Vectra 40KD
Kenzie and Shep dogs Toad 94 Geo Tracker (The clown car)
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06-16-2010, 12:31 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Northern California
Posts: 15
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The parking brake was and is set. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Tried 12v again yesterday. 110 works champs. I agree the motor should have been a more robust design.
I'm thinking of working myself up to be brave enough to try and add a turn to the retracting spring.
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'06 V33 Adventurer
Brazle's UltraPower & RoadMaster SwayBar
'05 Envoy & BrakePro
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