Advise on DIY oil & filter change

[Big Bear]

I am considering doing my own oil & filter change. Have always done on my cars & old MH, a 1974 Winne INDIAN w/ Dodge 440. I have the tools, jack stands and will be working inside my 36'x 56' shop. My biggest question is the oil filter, I have a filter wrench (metal band type) with 1/2" drive. Also plan to install a Fumoto drain valve for future use. Space to axcess filter & get it both out & in again looks pretty tight. This is on a Cummins ISC, 350 hp in a Winn Vectra 40AD.

[Big Bear]

I am considering doing my own oil & filter change. Have always done on my cars & old MH, a 1974 Winne INDIAN w/ Dodge 440. I have the tools, jack stands and will be working inside my 36'x 56' shop. My biggest question is the oil filter, I have a filter wrench (metal band type) with 1/2" drive. Also plan to install a Fumoto drain valve for future use. Space to axcess filter & get it both out & in again looks pretty tight. This is on a Cummins ISC, 350 hp in a Winn Vectra 40AD.

[arkaussie]

Vern,
I also have a '04 Horizon 40AD however I have a 330HP ISC without the Banks kit. This will be my 3rd change when I do the next one shortly. I intend to install the Fumoto valve this time as I may not always have a drain pan big enough.

As far as a filter wrench goes I have a flat nylon loop strap with a 1/2" drive about 6" long. They are available at NAPA for about $7 and allow you to swing the wrench below the filter. The loop strap is placed around the filter and the square drive is rotated to tighten the strap on the filter then the ratchet is inserted to loosen the filter and it requires very little clearance around the filter plus a regular extension can be added if you need it.

If you don't understand what I am referring to, which is not so easy to describe, I'll get you a part number.

[MrTransistor]

I have done all but one of the oil changes on our coach. Six of the seven times and I have wished for a device just like this every time. I'll place an order tomorrow.

The CAT C7 oil filter is very easy to replace. Unscrew it using a strap wrench and drop it straight down. Some how when the engine is shut down, oil is drained part way out of the filter so there is no spill when pulling the old one off. A new filter and 5 1/2 gallons of CAT DEO run about $85.00 with tax at Wagner CAT.

[Dave and Cris]

I have a C7 Cat (350HP) and have changed the oil several times. What I normally do when changing the oil is loosen the oil filter 1/2 to 1 turn. Next using a hammer and nail, punch a hole in the bottom of the filter and let the oil drain before removing the filter completely. I am using the latest Rotella oil which meets some of Cat's latest specs. I just wish I could change the primary fuel filter as easily.

I hope this helps.

Dave

[KIX]

I change my own oil/filter too. I have broken a couple of the NAPA version of the filter strap wrench so I ordered one from Snap-On that is a little beefier and haven't had any problems since. For a catch pan the bottom 8" of a 55 gal. acid drum works great. A Fumoto valve would make it a lot easier. You can change the filter without any problems just don't totally fill the new one so you don't wear the new oil.

[hdvectra]

Changing the oil and oil filter is not that difficult, just need a container large enough to hold all the oil. I've used a large plastic container lined with a 30 gallon trash bag and I've also used two 5 gallon yellow drain pans. The two yellow drain pans seem to work best for me, the transfer when the 1st one is 1/2 full is not that messy and draining the oil into gallon jugs to dispose is easier with the yellow pans.

Removing and reinstalling the oil filter is easy. I use a strap wrench to break it loose if needed. When installing the new one it must be filled with oil 1st, can be a little messy if you are not careful.

Changing the water coolant filter was a little more difficult. From underneath it is difficult to reach the filter and shut off. I finally just opened up the panel in the closet and next to the bed and came in from the top. Only takes about 10 minutes to open up the access panels and it makes it much easier to do.

[Big Bear]

I have a side radiator model and there is a large dia. Coolant pipe alongside of the engine, there is JUST enough clearance to get the filter past it once it is loosened but access is going to be quite difficult. I have a metal strap wrench from NAPA made for trucks/heavy equipment use, that accepts a ½"� drive ext. This WILL NOT BREAK Napa p/n is BK 77-2321. PN for the strap wrench is BK 77-3149
Will have next change done by Cummins & have my Futomo drain valve installed for future use. I have a bad feeling about my last change done by Freightliner in San Diego. From the looks of the filter, it may not have been changed. 7000 miles on it and the grime is pretty bad. Also not the current p/n but the original p/n, maybe they were just out of stock or ??
"HDVECTRA" notes that it is best to change coolant filter from inside the closet by removing a panel, can you clarify which panel?

[hdvectra]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">"HDVECTRA" notes that it is best to change coolant filter from inside the closet by removing a panel, can you clarify which panel? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I took both of them off, one is in the closet, the other between the closet and the bed. Next time I'll just take off the one between the bed and the closet, that is the one that is best to reach the coolant shut off and filter.

To get to that panel you must first take off the carpeted raised area by removing two screws just behind the bed. Then the panel has 4 screws that need to be removed.

[Big Bear]

Thanks for the info. My last trip developed a fuel leak & stoped at Freigtliner for that and air dryer service. For the leak the bed to closet floor panel had to be removed. I helped the tech with the panel removal. The carpeted part was not bad..but the insulated panel underneith was a bear. Not enough clearance to pull up the forward side, and the rear side was under a sheet metal flap, I remember about an inch wide. This had to be bent up to remove the panel. Neither of us saw a reason for this & appeared to serve no purpose so left it bent for future acess. That leak fix cost me over $600, nobody mentioned "warrentee". In the middle of the night on a trip I was not thinking well. Later found Cummins would/should cover as it was a fuel line connection on the engine done by Cummins. Just was not tight. A helpfull Cummins service mgr contacted the service center & got a refund, less the $100 deductable. He indicated that Freightliner was not about to mention it as Cummins would only pay FrtLinera fixed $$ to correct leak, if easy or hard. Got 1 more year on that Cummins warr.

[hdvectra]

Now that you mention it I did have to take out that sheet metal flap in the closet but thought that was because of the rear panel. Perhap it did have to come out for clearance because of the other panel. Lots of screws to remove but not that difficult with a power drill/driver.

The biggest mistake I made was reaching in and removing the filter before the engine had cooled down. Burned my arm a little on the manifold.

Seems I've read of some that have had problems with the coolant shut off (above the filter) sticking and breaking when turned. Mine was no problem, turned without sticking.