Air conditioner not enough

[jarata]

Originally Posted by photobob

First I understand your situation and was actually looking for a Winne Sunstar with your configuration before we lucked into a Newmar with the same basic specs and layout.
Like you, I was surprised that the 15,000 Btu Ac unit couldn't adequately cool the coach when it hit around 90 degrees. After all our 25 year old 20foot "C" had no problem staying cool. And I agree, the manufacturers should know that.
Companies like Winnebago and Newmar make an effort to avoid this type of design error.
Anyhow, since we are full timers that winter in Phoenix (Out by end of April till first of November) we had the same issue.
Our solution was a portable AC unit 10,000 Btu that does not take up usable space in our 30 foot "A" and does not require extra wiring or installation.
Costway EP23475

The unit cost about $ 250 , Extension Cord $25 , Platform $20 +/-
The AC unit is powered by the 110 V outlet on your hook up pedestal . This does not overload your 30 amp service. It requires no drain and stores under the table when we travel.

The upside is it does keep the coach cooler . The downside its noisier than the built in unit, but not bad.
It also sits over the drivers seat which does not fully rotate in our Baystar so it doesn't take up floor space and is virtually invisible from the living area .

But we really don't use it much because we have learned how to keep the heat from building up in the coach using some of the suggestions offered by others. The best solution we have is by adding reflectors to the front windshield and other windows, makes a big difference. We also lower the awning to keep the sun off the exposed side.
But the biggest thing is " We get the Hell out of Phoenix" for the summer
Good Luck, Bob

nice setup we have the same unit just a 2010 do you now if they are wired for 2 air conditioners,or did you ever think of going with a 15,000 unit
also we are thinking of getting better shades then the factory ones for front windshied alot of heat comes in

[jcussen]

Originally Posted by jarata

If your going to attack people maybe this forum isnt for you,I see your new reconsider if you want to contribute on here

Wow, think it was meant as a joke, least that is how I read it.
Guess I am not sensitive enough.

[photobob]

Yes, with time, I found that the best way to reduce interior heat is prevent buildup.
I have to make sure the AC is on before the coach gets hot because once it gets hot it cant get it cool enough.
Said before, these big "ass" front windshields let in a lot of heat, so we use a reflective blind that covers most of it.
Depending on how the coach is facing makes a big difference too. If the side with the most glass faces the sunrise, you get the warming in the morning. Less heat penetration in the afternoon. At most parks you don't get that choice.
I am presently making custom reflective panels out of "Coroplast" and aluminum foil , that will cover the windows most in direct sunlight. (Coroplast is a corrugated plastic that comes in large 4 x 8 sheets. Just like cardboard. Used by sign shops)
Beating the heat is a challenge we all have in summer...….. That's why we are out of Arizona and in the mountains of Utah this year …..Bob

[photobob]

I don't think these are wired for second units. I was ignorant of the need for 50 amp service at the time of purchase, and now believe it is in a manufactures best interest not to make a coach that can't support two AC units. We also cut the electricity off for the water heater and fridge when we use the microwave with the AC on otherwise we occasionally blow the main.
One other fix that I did not mention is to block the AC vents in the bedroom , Intake and cooling. I initially purchased ones that closed but it was too complicated to change them so I made neat covers (Coroplast) that looked good and attached with Velcro. Then I close off the back room.
I have these covers for all of the vents , so I can block off the living area when in the bedroom.
I also have a big reflector in that back window too.
Had I made these modifications first I may have not purchased the portable AC unit......as my wife rolls her eyes, LOL. Bob

[bladerunner4]

Originally Posted by jcussen

Wow, think it was meant as a joke, least that is how I read it.
Guess I am not sensitive enough.

I meant no disrespect, and yes it was intended to be humorous, but I guess a sense of humor is fast disappearing in our country.

[b.mccoy1960]

We have a similar situation. We live in the desert so we have to plan our initial movements strategically; turn on the air around 9:00 pm the night before we plan on packing/loading the inside, have it fueled, the exterior bins are loaded and all maintenance performed so once the inside is loaded we can take off.
The problem with living in the desert, is several months of the year temperatures are flat out unfriendly to RV’s. Inside temperatures are difficult to control while driving or on a hot day at the campsite. We also have 3 dogs that travel with us so we decided to do a few of the easy modifications people share on sites like this.
We paid to have premium window tint on all exterior windows. Even the factory smoke colored glass we tinted and we also did the front windshield in a clear coat heat shield (what a difference);
I removed the insulation under the doghouse engine cover. It had gaps all through it. I then relined it with two layers of 3/8” insulation for a heat shield against both the engine and the road heat. I used the same type of insulation underneath the floor of both captains chairs. What a difference eliminating both heat and excessive noise. We can now talk like humans and hear our tunes.
Next, I plugged the unused portion of the factory ductwork directly after the last vent, both front and rear of the coach and both sides, with styrofoam and duct tape. This stopped the dead air from trying to be cooled. I also sealed any area were cool air could leak out with duct tape or spray foam.
Next, I changed the thermostat to a digital type. This helped keep the temperature dialed into a 1-2 degree accuracy where the stock one was inadequate.
I also cut 1 extra vent into the cooling side of the a/c ceiling control to add more volume over the dinette area (dogs travel there when made into a bed)
We then put curtain rods behind the captains chairs to keep the cab air isolated to the cab area. We placed another curtain rod right before the bathroom. The curtain rods then reduced the square footage the coach a/c needs to cool. (We also place 2” foam insulation into the fresh air vents (in the ceiling) and the skylight in the bathroom while traveling or on the few excessively hot days in the campground.
When setup in a campground or parked at the house, we also have MagnaShades to help keep it cool.
These mods allowed our 13,5000 BTU a/c unit perform much closer to what I wanted. Heat is our enemy and no one thing does it all. The object is to eliminate as much as possible so the a/c has less of it to try and remove.
I hope you can try a few of these mods or others before going out and buying a second a/c. With the exception of the window tint and MagnaShades, the majority of the mods were cheap.
Please keep everyone informed of your progress!
Brett

[Skip Y]

Our winter spot in FL faces west, so we get PM sun in windshield. Found front of coach was 15deg warmer than rest of coach, even with internal MCD shade down, placing big load on A/C. Added solar shade on outside of windshield, which dropped temp in front of coach by 10 deg due to elimination of greenhouse effect. May be a cheap solution to your problem.

Skip Y
2010 Journey 40TD
WIT 47083, FMCA F263635

[Skip Y]

Our winter spot in FL faces west, so we get the PM sun through the windshield. The greenhouse effect it created added 15 deg to the front of the coach (10 with the MCD solar shade down). Added a solar shade to the outside of the windshield and it dropped the temperature difference to almost zero, making the A/C much more effective.

Skip Y
2010 Journey 40TD
WIT 47083, FMCA F263635

[edgray]

Originally Posted by photobob

.........
Our solution was a portable AC unit 10,000 Btu that does not take up usable space in our 30 foot "A" and does not require extra wiring or installation.
Costway EP23475

The unit cost about $ 250 , Extension Cord $25 , Platform $20 +/-
The AC unit is powered by the 110 V outlet on your hook up pedestal . This does not overload your 30 amp service. It requires no drain and stores under the table when we travel.

The upside is it does keep the coach cooler . The downside its noisier than the built in unit, but not bad.
It also sits over the drivers seat which does not fully rotate in our Baystar so it doesn't take up floor space and is virtually invisible from the living area.......Good Luck, Bob

BOB: When we first moved here to Central MS and were living in our coach with a basement AC not able to deal with the heat and humidity, I tried a unit similar to the one you have. It did make a slight difference, but I finally decided that the hot air it was exhausting out its vent was being made up by drawing the same amount of outside air into the coach, because we were not living in a vacuum. To me there seemed to be not much of a net gain in coolness, so I ultimately paid the price to have a new roof-top AC unit installed in place of the kitchen ceiling vent fan. The additional wiring, AC unit, and labor to install was ~ $1,500.00, but at least we were able to cool the coach and I didn't have to deal with the portable unit and extension cord.

[Superrv]

Guys thank you for all the input. I got everything installed today. Added a second unit with thermostat with full upgrade to 50 amp. Overall cost was $2400 with everything. Not sure if I overpaid, underpaid, etc. Job is done professionally and I can freeze my a$$ off when its hot outside. The way I see it 2400 to make sure I never sweat again....Good stuff.

[photobob]

Originally Posted by Superrv

Guys thank you for all the input. I got everything installed today. Added a second unit with thermostat with full upgrade to 50 amp. Overall cost was $2400 with everything. Not sure if I overpaid, underpaid, etc. Job is done professionally and I can freeze my a$$ off when its hot outside. The way I see it 2400 to make sure I never sweat again....Good stuff.

You made the best decision, money not being an issue, and a good point was made about the portable unit , although I had better results. It could be a lot of other factors why I did.
But as I said in my initial post, try to stay out of hot areas unless you want to spend most of the time in your coach under the cool AC.

We got into this lifestyle to chase the good weather but in the last few years there has been little escape from the heat in the summer...…. Just Saying.
Hit the road and enjoy the journey ….Bob

[WayneInFL]

Hi, I ran into a problem similar to many posts in this thread - that of having two air conditioners that tripped a 30 amp supply breaker whenever both happened to try to start at the same time. My first solution was to set one thermostat down so low that that AC would never shut off. Then set the second ac to cycle as desired. The two ACs could never try to start simultaneously. That worked quite well most of the time. Then I also added soft start capacitors and the problem was eliminated.

[Edd505]

Originally Posted by WayneInFL

Hi, I ran into a problem similar to many posts in this thread - that of having two air conditioners that tripped a 30 amp supply breaker whenever both happened to try to start at the same time. My first solution was to set one thermostat down so low that that AC would never shut off. Then set the second ac to cycle as desired. The two ACs could never try to start simultaneously. That worked quite well most of the time. Then I also added soft start capacitors and the problem was eliminated.

I stumbled into this trick earlier this summer when the SP only had 30 amp. It works, one AA/C 13 amps. two would be 26 so without the cycling they both run.