Community Forums

Superrv · 07-14-2019, 04:58 PM

Just picked up my Winnebago Sunstar 31be. I really love everything about it. So today was a pretty hot day and I learned something rough. This single 15,000 btu a/c can not come close to keeping the coach cool during a day in the 90s. I haven’t taken a temp but it probably only gets the coach down to low 80s during the day. I am beyond bummed out. I did some homework and new it wouldn’t be the same icebox as my class c but I’m really saddened by how poorly it cools the coach. What are my options to improve the cooling. Is there a larger btu that will fit with the 30 amp or is the only option to go crazy and add another a/c. If adding another ac is the only option whats the easiest route? Roof/basement I’m guessing that’ll require upgrading to 50 amp too won’t it. Man I love everything else about this coach too. I know a second ac is an option from factory. Any idea of these things are prewired for a second one

gatorb8 · 07-14-2019, 05:27 PM

I would try and find a way to install another ac for a total of 2. I can run my 2 ac’s on 30A but not much more.....when I have to

Can’t believe they only provide one ac in a 30+ foot rv!!!

Elwood58 · 07-14-2019, 05:31 PM

All of the A on Ford E Chassis Motorhomes seem to go the one AC route. Get a shade on that big front window, and possibly add window awnings. In the short term some reflectix from Home Depot might get you by.

gatorb8 · 07-14-2019, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elwood58

All of the A on Ford E Chassis Motorhomes seem to go the one AC route. Get a shade on that big front window, and possibly add window awnings. In the short term some reflectix from Home Depot might get you by.

I think his is a class A F53 with huge pop out, no way one ac gonna cool that!

Waiter21 · 07-14-2019, 05:42 PM

This may or may not apply to you, but I did some mods on my ole 2001 Mirada, and it was able to stay cool inside while in Phoeniz in the summer (115 deg), with one A/C unit.

Tinted windows and window covers:

Window tint and window covers – 2001 Coachmen Mirada 300QB

I had a non ducted A/C ceiling unit. I made a mod to the unit to allow more airflow from it:

Beat the heat – Improving air flow from the air conditioner ceiling unit – 2001 Coachmen Mirada 300QB

..

Winterbagoal · 07-14-2019, 07:50 PM

I had a 26HE and had to tweak the overhead vents to maximize the duct work, and after a bit of experimentation, it wasn't too bad. It took a while to cool down but it eventually did it's thing. Start by setting the thermostat to COOL HI/AUTO. Then try rotating, and adjusting the blade angles, on the louvers on the ceiling A/C ducts to maximize the dispersion of the cool air. Also, make sure there is air flow from all of them. I think ours had 3 forward, and 2 in the back over the bed, and 1 vent in the bathroom area.

Nickd · 07-14-2019, 08:48 PM

We also have a 19 Sunstar 31BE. Just spent the weekend at Vail Lake in So Cal this weekend. 98 degrees in the shade. The single AC in these units is a bit lean on output I agree. Our old 35’ brave was more comfortable with 2 units indeed.

We new the Sunstar was a high value unit and we would have to give up a couple of things to save that 40 grand. The AC brought it down to 80 in mid day with some shade from a large Oak tree. 10 people inside for dinner too! Not too bad really.

Keep the door closed as much as possible. Curtains closed on the sun sides. Window covers help too. I cut my own from the Foil / foam / foil rolls they sell at insulation4les.com. Tape the edges with foil tape. Helps protect the inside for storage too.

Camp where there is a pool or water for swimming. The other 9 1/2 months of the year is not an issue. Still a really nice rig. We love ours.

youracman · 07-14-2019, 08:49 PM

Superrv: "..................If adding another ac is the only option whats the easiest route? Roof/basement I’m guessing that’ll require upgrading to 50 amp too won’t it."

Wow! I see you have a full wall slide out. Lotsa cubic ft, unfortunately. I have decided that if I want to revisit the desert southwest again, I will add a 2nd AC unit to my 31 ft class C (a dwarf compared to your volume.) My 15K unit only gets the coach livable after sundown in AZ (we all know the hottest areas have the fewest "shady" spots, right?) Adding a second AC will inflict a big "hit" on my minimal OCCC though ...... but no problem on your Class A in all likelihood.

If you decide to go the add'l AC route, there are some threads on this forum to be found in the search box. The most popular method seems to be to install a non-ducted unit with "local" controls (no t'stat) .... for simplicity, I reckon. The mechanical part is straight fwd enuff ....... folks just remove the bedroom ceiling vent and install the unit there. Power is not quite as simple. At least one guy managed to route romex for power through his ceiling insulation but the more likely scenario involves running exposed conduit on the ceiling from the unit into a closet and then down through the floor to a J-box in a storage bin. Small rectangular (plastic) snap together conduit can be used for the exposed run. A dedicated cable is used to run power to the J-box from the circuit with the (extra?) 20 amp plug (at a 50A RV park site pedestal.)

Others have probably read the threads re installation of a 2nd AC. If I have misunderstood the "process" I trust they will "straighten me out". :^)

Good luck with a fix; and, safe travels.

ps Just my $.02, but I would think more highly of WBGO if the 2 AC configuration were the (recommended) std and a unit with only 1 AC would be a lower-cost option.

4.02

Elwood58 · 07-14-2019, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatorb8

I think his is a class A F53 with huge pop out, no way one ac gonna cool that!

You are right! At first glance I thought is was on the smaller chassis. Looks like a 2nd AC with 50 amp service is an optional upgrade. Also ups the Benny to the 5500.

BirchyBoy · 07-14-2019, 09:57 PM

We love our ‘17 BE except for the heat and A/C. Here’s what we do:

1. Use a sun screen in the windshield.
2. Add some Reflectix to the couch window, entry door and rear window.
3. Use vent covers in the kitchen and bathroom.
4. Clean the A/C screens every day. Check the foam divider between the hot and cold sides as well.
5. If we’re leaving for several hours, I’ll pull the slide in.
6. Put the awning out if possible.

It was 95 in Denver and it kept it around 82 or so. It won’t be cool like a house but we can be happy.

Have you been in the cold (under 40)? If not, you’ll have another round of gripes

I am planning to add another A/C next season with a dedicated plug.

T00lman · 07-16-2019, 01:14 PM

We have the same problem on our Sunstar 27PE in the Florida heat. We keep the bedroom door closed and open the vents directly on the A/C unit to help cool off the living area. Keep all shades down and awning out. Pull in slides whenever you are able. We also installed an insulating pillow in the vent over the stove. I saw a YouTube video regarding the divider in the A/C unit that separates the incoming hot air side from the outgoing cold air side. They repositioned it and sealed the gaps with foil A/C duct tape.

Bob_C · 07-16-2019, 02:14 PM

Start the A/C earlier in the day.....add the 2nd A/C with a separate plug in.....it'll run on a 20 amp service........use a 12 gauge extension cord.......insulate upper cabinets with Reflectix.......I spend a lot of time in the Yuma area......

Superrv · 07-17-2019, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

Start the A/C earlier in the day.....add the 2nd A/C with a separate plug in.....it'll run on a 20 amp service........use a 12 gauge extension cord.......insulate upper cabinets with Reflectix.......I spend a lot of time in the Yuma area......

I've got a winnebago specialist coming by to review if any of it is prewired for the second ac. If its not....Im just going to do what you said. Its sad that I have to absorb another expense but its worth it.....May add a third while im at it.....jk

Gormleys · 07-18-2019, 07:38 AM

It's not the run current that requires 50 amps when running two A/Cs but the draw current needed to star the compressors. One fix to lower the start current to stay within 30amps is the Micro-Air Easystart system. It replaces the capacitors on the A/C unit so that the compressor starts more gradually and requires less current. It is reviewed in the August Trailer Life magazine. See www.microair.net