Air in LP line?

[azloafer]

We seldom use LP for the fridge, maybe twice this year. When we did attempt to use LP we had trouble getting it running. Another RV'er told us that air gets in the line after not using LP for a long time. He said that the trick is to turn the range on and maybe the heat to get the air out of the line and keep trying to start the fridge. We did this and it worked, although it took 10 minutes of repeatedly pressing the LP mode on the fridge. During hot weather we run the generator for the air and fridge, but when the weather cools we want to use the fridge on LP. The fridge is a four door Norcold. Is there a better way to get it started? Joe

[bad1032]

You may want to check the burner assy, may have a mud dobber nest in there not letting it lite off.

[Petro]

On my previous Adventure I had your problem. I always shut off the LP tank valve when I put it away for the winter. Come spring i had to run the furnace and a couple burners on the stove to bleed the air out of the line. I do not have that problem on my Chieftain.

Don

[Gary - K7GLD]

We shut down the LP tank when not in use for a week or more - our system is tight enough in the MH that it will hold pressure for a couple of weeks - so usually no issue.

Longer periods of LP-off storage does require the "range burner" trick, which works on the KIT 5er, with the range right next to the refrigerator - but in the MH, the range is on the other side of the kitchen - so not much help, and we just do the "push the LP switch again" trick until it finally lights.

Dunno of any easier way, other than leaving the LP on full time...

[SCVJeff]

This has been discussed before and it's a common problem across the board. The popular opinion is that it's the regulator that's the culprit. I just turn on the stove and hold a lighter under the burner till it lights. This one takes about 60 sec.

[MrTransistor]

Hi Loafer,

We don’t have that problem any more with the refrigerator (got rid of the Norcold. Danbys now) and we have been full time since 1999 so the gas is never shut off. My suggestion though is probably one you may not want to do, and I’m sure some out there in RV land will comment on the dangers. That is to remove all power to the coach (and I do mean all) then loosen the fitting at the input to the refrigerator valve letting the air escape until you smell the rotten egg odorant of the LP. Then retighten the fitting. The refrigerator should start right up.

I have done this procedure before for a different problem on our Journey (clogged gas line from the factory). On ours, the refrigerator wouldn’t run correctly on LP and the factory service center couldn’t find the problem after two tries. I decided I would find the problem myself and found a rubber plug in a gas line fitting under the coach where the flex line to the refrigerator connects to the steel pipe of the coach.

I disconnected the line and then listened to the sound of the gas flowing through the line. It made a gurgling sound and there was no read detectable flow of gas. Once the clog was cleared, the sound was more of a hiss with gas blowing against you face. That is the only Norcold we’ve had that worked well from then on.

[ichn2go]

When going thr the tunnels in our area we have to shut off the propane. I have always been told to Light the stove first anytime the propane has been shut off. Then everything else will be ok...Works for me...Have fun.

[SVTotem]

We are new to LP driven refers. Can anyone give me an idea of the consumption rate to expect? I understand that there are many variables, but an idea of the rate for a refrigerator and contents already chilled on A/C would help me.

Bill
Orlando, FL

[Wayne M]

Well, I've forgotten the reason why, but when the valve to the LP is turned on after being off for awhile, it needs to be turned on very, very, very slowly. I think this is to allow for the slow dispersion of air. Anyhow, it works for me. Me thinks turning it on full blast just creates an air plug and the range trick needs to be used. Even then, the range takes a while and a butane lighter is needed because the electronic one will just keep clickin' away.

I leave mine in the Auto position, except for when it is turned off.

[Gary - K7GLD]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCVJeff This has been discussed before and it's a common problem across the board. The popular opinion is that it's the regulator that's the culprit. I just turn on the stove and hold a lighter under the burner till it lights. This one takes about 60 sec.

Read the OP - this thread is about getting the far lower volume REFRIGERATOR lit after LP-off storage - the far smaller flame and gas flow in the refrigerator takes FAR longer to get LP flow than the stove If the stove is at a location some distance from the refrigerator - as it is in our MH, lighting it first may not be much help...

The only reference to the stove in this case, is that IF the stove is near the refrigerator, getting LP that far by lighting a burner, brings the LP flow much closer to the refrigerator - and shortens the time it takes to get IT to light...

The "culprit" isn't the regulator - it's the volume of LP it takes to fill the empty line and light off more distant, low-flow appliances.

[SCVJeff]

Ur only about 2 weeks late on this..

You are assuming placements of appliances with respect to the tank and I don't think any of us know that. The bottom line is that it's common practice to turn on high volume appliances in order to charge the line for the low volume ones as several have pointed out subsequently, and it is the regular that bleeds off the LP in the 1st place. Even if the fridge is down-stream of the stove, it's still a start.

If I don't do this after my tank is shut off it's every bit of 10 min before there's a reliable flame.

[azloafer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCVJeff Ur only about 2 weeks late on this.. You are assuming placements of appliances with respect to the tank and I don't think any of us know that. The bottom line is that it's common practice to turn on high volume appliances in order to charge the line for the low volume ones as several have pointed out subsequently, and it is the regular that bleeds off the LP in the 1st place. Even if the fridge is down-stream of the stove, it's still a start. If I don't do this after my tank is shut off it's every bit of 10 min before there's a reliable flame.

Our fridge and range are right next to each other. The last time we wanted to do the fridge on LP we just couldn't get it started. We had the heat on LP and the water heater on LP. We stopped at the dealer and they tried it three times and it came on! They did not have a remedy, this just happens, they said. Joe

[Chuck 1935]

Well Joe, after 12 posts, I guess it all boils down to S--t happens. Pretty much explaines it all. Is this a great life, or what !!!

[azloafer]

I'll make this short...it is late and we leave for a long weekend in the early AM. I had the need to run the fridge on LP in the storage yard tonight. I sat by the fridge and kept pressing the LP mode button every 30 seconds and I couldn't keep it on LP. Time to get the owner's manual out. The manual said that it may take two or three tries, but not the way I was doing it. When the fridge alarm goes off and it indicates NO FL, the on/off button should be pressed to OFF and then to ON again and the mode to LP. I wasn't using the on/off switch, just the mode button. Three tries like the manual said and it worked on LP. When all else fails...read the manual. I could kick myself for this one! Hope this helps someone else. Joe