Air Lift Air Springs

[pleeds]

Hi Gang:

I've got a 2003 Suncruiser on the Ford F-53 chassis. Because of sway and some porpoising I replaced the OEM shocks with Monroe Magnum RV's. The Monroe's helped some but I still experience quite a bit of rolling (side to side) motion on uneven or crowned roads. Rig handles quite well on flat roads. I'm wondering if any Ford Class A owners have tried the Air Lift Air Springs offered at Camping World. Price at $198.00 seems quite reasonable...if they help eliminate the rock & rolling.

Appreciate any comments.

Thanks,

[pleeds]

Hi Gang:

I've got a 2003 Suncruiser on the Ford F-53 chassis. Because of sway and some porpoising I replaced the OEM shocks with Monroe Magnum RV's. The Monroe's helped some but I still experience quite a bit of rolling (side to side) motion on uneven or crowned roads. Rig handles quite well on flat roads. I'm wondering if any Ford Class A owners have tried the Air Lift Air Springs offered at Camping World. Price at $198.00 seems quite reasonable...if they help eliminate the rock & rolling.

Appreciate any comments.

Thanks,

[Cruzer]

I generally don't see heavier springs, or "helper" spring assists as viable. As long as the coach sits level and doesn't sag or squat the springs should be fine. The springs are designed to hold the vehicle up, that's all. If you put heavier springs on they'll raise it up that much more just as it sits. Sure, they'll deflect less, but they'll also "push back" harder. If you are trying to control rolling, the springs will push both ways so they'll shove you over and back with the same equal force, thereby not changeing your rolling action. If you run with a two stage "helper" spring, it won't affect the coach when at a lighter load but will tend to push back once a heavier load (or bounce) is applied. Then it will push it back that much harder. Helper springs (pneumatic or steel) are good for restoring your ride height but not controlling motion.

What is designed to control roll is the anti-sway bar. This works as a steel horseshoe and has no effect upon the coach's up and down movement. However, when a roll action occurs, the horseshoe will twist and try to straighten itslef out. If you go to a heavier diameter anti-roll bar you will have a coach with less roll.

Naturally, none of this applies to a coach running on a crowned road. All of the suspension components will want to keep the coach perpendicular to the road. If the road isn't level, neither will the coach unless you have an air ride system with height control valves.

If it's a quick intermittent action, shocks will dampen the action and slow down the response to it. If your Magnums helped a bit you may want to consider going with the excellent Koni shocks, which are adjustable. That way you can get more dampening action than the fixed ratio Monroes have.

["007"]

I had two F-53's that required work to there suspensions, Newmar KS. The coach was to heavy an causing springs to over curve axels an was not level front to rear. Spring company used different springs front an rear to correct.
The first one I had a leaf spring added on all four corners. This leveled the coach very well, cost about $1100 with alinement.
Second coach I installed myself Air-Lift sys bags all four corners, air pump, four air valves an wiring harness an tubing, 2 control units. This was a manual sys, I believe Air Lift now has a automatic level adjust control unit. My sys cost about $900 installing it myself.
The air bags gave a softer ride than springs an more control over different loads you may carry at times. I got bags sys on sale from CW in Feb. cheaper. The MA by Newmar was rubbing the rear pass tires on roof of tire well when coach rocked to pass side. Both options worked very well just liked bags because of control I had. Both coachs I installed Bilstiens also. --"007"

[Duner]

I put Firestone's Ride-Rite air bags on the rear of my '99 Chieftain 34Y F53. My goal was to bring the rear up level when I towed my trailer (750lbs tongue wt). Put a compressor on-board with solenoid valves & switches on the dash so I could level left/right on the go and raise the rear 2-3" so I wouldn't drag in driveways.

But air bags won't help the side-to-side roll and sway. Cruzer's right about sway bars front and rear Koni's. I put on Bilsteins ($90ea) and that helped a lot but you trade-off a stiffer ride and more vibration on concrete expansion joints and bad roads. My choice would be Koni's at $130ea beefer sway bars.

Also, check the joints on the stock Ford sway bars, you may have one not tight. My borther's MH handled really poor. The dealer couldn't find any problems. Ater about a year the loose joint started making a popping noise and that's how we found a loose one on the front sway bar.

Happy Trails!
Bill

[pleeds]

As usual you guys responded quickley and thoroughly. I really appreciate your advice. My rig is experiencing the popping front end noise and I'm scheduled to have my local dealer install the Z-bar braces called for in the Ford Tech Svc. Bulletin 04-11-02. These braces should help stabilize the sway bar. If that doesn't do the job it's off to find a set of Koni's and a heavier sway bar. Any idea's on the best/most economical place to find these items?

Thanks again guys,