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Old 02-14-2012, 09:38 AM   #43
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Great job & write up - just wondering how is it holding up ?

How did the joints do in the cold weather ?

Stephen
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:11 PM   #44
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Stephen,
Im sure that CJ7ole will post the reply you are looking for regarding his magnificent work and documentation, but I will give you a reply for my install of the allure vinyl tile flooring.
My floor was installed over 1 year ago. When I removed the old vinyl tiles, there was so much adhesive left that my floor did not float. Also, there were new vinyl floor edges under the slides that I stapled to be sure of a permanent attachment. I wanted a permanent attachment at the slide edge to prevent pullup of the new flooring should the slide edge scrape the new flooring when retracting or extending.
The temperature range inside my coach over the last year went from 38F to 90F but the floor did not endure freezing conditions. During the last year I drove 13,000 miles on trips including a trip to Alaska during which the road conditions were so poor that the floor had to endure extended periods of severe vibrations.
The result: not a single detached joint and not a single buckle in the new flooring. It has really held up well and we have been very pleased with its performance.
hope this helps,

jim & debbie, 04 Journey 34H, C7
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:43 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen44 View Post
Great job & write up - just wondering how is it holding up ?

How did the joints do in the cold weather ?

Stephen
It is holding up fine, I do put some leftover strips under the slides before retracting, otherwise there would be scratches. And as noted in post #27, I have had a few end joints open up while the coach was in 40 degree storage, probably due to not getting them properly butted with absolutely no grey showing, but once it warmed up inside they closed up and it looked like when I had just finished it.
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:50 AM   #46
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thanks for the prompt replies - did either of you have a plank to carpet transition ? - what did you use. I have the transition where the tile butted to the carpet - it is just a rolled carpet edge at the moment. it is the full width of the coach

Stephen
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Old 02-15-2012, 08:48 AM   #47
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Home Depot sells an aluminum strip for carpet to tile edges. It's a channel with a 3/4" back strip that goes under the carpet leaving you with a nice clean aluminum edge.
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:59 PM   #48
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Stephen,
I had 3 different edges to deal with:
1. carpet to tile edge--This occurred at the hall entry to the bedroom. I decided to keep the bedroom carpet for now. I used a staple gun (shown in photo) to staple the carpet edge. I used vinyl tile adhesive to glue the new vinyl tiles to the wooded subfloor below. The vinyl and carpet were butted together with no overlap. This edge has worn well. I used a staple about every 3/4 inch. Some staple indentations are visible.
2. vinyl to raised vinyl edge---This edge was caused by the difference in floor heights because I raised the floor in the driver compartment in order to provide sound and heat insulation in this part of my coach but wanted no floor height increase under the slide to avoid slide scrapping of the new vinyl floor. I used a stained wooden strip butted against a thin aluminum strip (holding down the edge of the vinyl floor above). This edge has held up really well with no problems.
3. carpet to vinyl tile edge under the slide--I left the plastic strip under the slide and did not remove it. I left about 9in of carpet remaining and then used an aluminum transition strip to cover the carpet and vinyl tile edge. This was a problem because the under side of the slide has a sharp edge which repeatedly pulled up the aluminum transistion strip. Then I changed to the edge structure used for the bedroom.. glued the vinyl to the floor, sheered the edge of the carpet so that it was not so abrupt and would not likely be caught by the slide edge, and then stapled the carpet as in the bedroom. This has worked well..no problem with the slide and this edge is out of view since it is under the sofa.

jim & debbie, 04 journey 34H
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:13 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen44 View Post
thanks for the prompt replies - did either of you have a plank to carpet transition ? - what did you use. I have the transition where the tile butted to the carpet - it is just a rolled carpet edge at the moment. it is the full width of the coach

Stephen
the rolled carpet transition at the front behind the seats is held down with double back carpet tape and is holding up very well in our moho.
i posted with pics about a year and a half ago about our installation.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:07 AM   #50
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Home Depot sells an aluminum strip for carpet to tile edges. It's a channel with a 3/4" back strip that goes under the carpet leaving you with a nice clean aluminum edge.
sorry - probably didn't explain well. I am replacing the tile with allure ultra - so I am looking for a carpet to allure transition strip. HD say they don't stock one.

Stephen
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:13 PM   #51
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i ended up using some transition strips from LOWES

MobileMe Gallery

I also had multiple materials, Carpet, Allure, Pergo like floor
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:25 AM   #52
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allure carpet to vinyl transition strip

We had to track down a little place that dealt only in trims and moldings. Got the name of our local place from a carpet dealership near where we live.
Be careful not to nail it down too tight though. We did and are now waiting for warmer weather so we can let our allure expand again and hopefully all the joints that are showing due to contracting over the winter can be repaired.
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:53 AM   #53
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thanks everyone - I am still in two minds as whether to glue down my allure ultra planks to avoid the gap problem - I know people have had success both ways. I'm guessing a urethane glue would work ?

Any views on this ?

Stephen
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:35 AM   #54
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You did a great job on the installation and the documentation. Thanks so much.

We installed the old glue style Allure in our old motor home. We are planning on installing the new Allure Ultra Clear Cherry in our new motorhome. Its nice to see how it actually looks when it's all done.

This install should be a lot easier than the other one because we're using the wood look planks, verses the tile look and we don't really have any slide issues since our slides are raised and will just float over the floor. We're leaving the tile in the center of the MH alone.

Good job!
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:02 PM   #55
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thanks everyone - I am still in two minds as whether to glue down my allure ultra planks to avoid the gap problem - I know people have had success both ways. I'm guessing a urethane glue would work ?

Any views on this ?

Stephen
i used double back carpet tape where i didn't want the floor to move such as around the stairwell. no gaps so far.
we live in the moho fulltime and we put the allure down about 18 months ago.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:48 AM   #56
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I do NOT recommend gluing or nailing Allure Ultra in place. It needs to be able to expand and shrink. There's a reason the manufacturer gives the instructions it does. Make sure you get the joints clicked in place well and leave at least 1/4" (or even a little more) around the edges, which you cover with trim. When you put the trim down, do not let the nails go through the flooring. If you allow the floor to expand and contract the way it's supposed to, you won't have problems. If you try to force it to do something it's not designed to do (by nailing it down or gluing it), you're likely to regret it.

And that also means to be sure that there is no plank where the screws in your floor vent covers go, if you have floor vents.

We're having problems with some of our joints separating because we ignored the instructions to let it float and the perimeter planks were nailed in place with the trim. I have had to pull some of trim and use a small pry bar to close some of the joints. I've left the trim loose for the time being and am not having any problems with the joints separating where the trim is loose. When it warms up some, I will do some more work, but there are some joints I will not be able to repair because I can't get to the trim to loosen it (e.g., under the edge of the slide). When I put the trim back in place, I'll make sure that the nails do not go through the plank.

Our FW is out in the middle of nowhere and temps have been from 20ish to 70ish this winter. It will get well into the 90s, or maybe even higher, during the summer when we aren't there.

We installed ours when it was pretty hot outside, but with the AC running. I think it would be best to install with temps between 60 and 80.

liz
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