Alternator replacement

[Dave Merchant]

Hi all, I have an '03 Journey 32' with a 5.9 Cummins. About 2 yrs. ago, we had to have the alternator replaced due to not charging. Freightliner covered that one.
It's now showing the same symptoms, I'll drive about 20 miles and the voltage keeps dropping until the battery light comes on. I've discovered that I can run the generator to get the volts back up to about 12.5 and keep going.
I'm leaving on Thursday for a trip and need to repair ASAP.
My question is, have any of you replaced the alternator on one of these before? I just got back last night and haven't yet looked to see where it even is. Or is that job better left to the pros? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have plenty of tools.
Also, should I get a new or rebuilt unit?
Thanks for your help.

[Dave Merchant]

Hi all, I have an '03 Journey 32' with a 5.9 Cummins. About 2 yrs. ago, we had to have the alternator replaced due to not charging. Freightliner covered that one.
It's now showing the same symptoms, I'll drive about 20 miles and the voltage keeps dropping until the battery light comes on. I've discovered that I can run the generator to get the volts back up to about 12.5 and keep going.
I'm leaving on Thursday for a trip and need to repair ASAP.
My question is, have any of you replaced the alternator on one of these before? I just got back last night and haven't yet looked to see where it even is. Or is that job better left to the pros? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have plenty of tools.
Also, should I get a new or rebuilt unit?
Thanks for your help.

[Mutha]

Dave, It may not be your alternator. It sounds like you might have a battery problem, or even both.
Here is a link on checking your alternator, on my web site that may help you:

Alternator Diagnosis

I suggest you have your batteries all tested, before you do anything else.

Good Luck - Glenn

[dirko]

Hi Ho: Sounds like it might be the alternator ok. The way to tell, as the very good link indicates, is to measure the battery voltage with the engine running. It should measure about 13.8 volts plus or minus a few tenths. If it doesn't, it is most likely the alternator or the regulator (which these days is part of the alternator).

If you can get to the alternator they are quite easy to replace these days. Put a socket on the unibelt tensioner and relieve the tension enough to remove the belt. Put a bungee or something on the belt to keep it whese it belongs so you don't have to restring it. Then simply remove the bolts holding it on, install the new one, and reinstall the belt.

I used to do all my own maintenance, even it meant rebuilding the engine. Nowadays if I can save time I still do it. Replacing an alternator yourself is quicker than taking the MH somewhere, so for me it's a no-brainer.

Whether a new or rebuilt one is really a matter of how hard it is to get to. Auto Zone, for example, has a lifetime warranty on both.

Good luck, Dirk

[Dave Merchant]

Thanks guys,
I lifted the bed and pulled the cover yesterday, then I got on the phone to a local shop and they are replacing it for me today. I could barely reach half the bolts and didn't even see the tensioner. Maybe if you were a real skinny guy with long arms you could get in there. They're doing the job for about $400 so that's not as bad as I'd thought. Looked like more trouble than it's worth to me.
Thanks again for your advice.

[Dave Merchant]

One other thing, when Freightliner replaced it the first time, they put on a remanufactured unit. They only put on new ones if the unit isn't sold yet. I wasn't sure about that until I asked.