Another Adhesive Failure

[FleetMan]

Adhesive failures on front and rear grills appear to be somewhat routine. Has anyone experienced a failure like this? We were on our way to the factory to have the roof to sidewall rails reattached (caulk inspection revealed the rear driver side rail separating). The defect was repaired and the attachments for all the rails were reinforced while in the shop. However, somewhere between the Amana RV Park and Forest City, the rear lower panel disappeared without doing any damage to the coach or the toad. The Iowa Highway cleanup crews never found the panel or the license plate - must be in a farm field somewhere.

The visit to the factory was extended a few extra days while they manufactured a replacement panel for me. I guess If I was going to lose it, I couldn't have been in a better place. No, no factory help in reducing the price of the replacement panel.

[Sammie]

Yep! So far I've repaired the the front hood, rear engine access hood and just recently while crawling around under the left rear of my coach I found part of the bottom panel you lost starting to separate from the metal framework. I think if winnebago would have sanded the metal where it attaches to the fiberglass the epoxy would have held. I used JB Weld to reattach mine and so far so good.

Sammie

[94-Newmar]

I had an 07 Adventurer in the other day for both headlight buckets falling out. I was in amazement when I crawled underneath and found that both headlight buckets, which were each 15 lbs were simply glued to the fiberglass at the side and front grille area. Not one screw is used. The adhesive they used pulled the fiberglass strands apart and is now compromised, so there was no chance of re-glueing them. I engineered bracketry to mount the headlight buckets using framework from the chassis.. which is how Winny should have done it in the first place.

Deplorable construction methods.

[pyoots]

I can relate. Have had front fenders re-glued. Service manager at repair garage stated that W had attached the fenders with double sided tape. Repair shop used a premium adhesive.

A good argument for buying a creeper and rolling under the coach and doing a close inspection at anything and everything you can see or touch. Found a bad tire that way (inside dual). Known owners to discover towing bars to be close to failing and had to be re welded. As careful as I am, I'm still amazed at what can still go awry.

Happy Trails

Phil

[Kelm130]

I've had the same issue on my 2003 Journey. I just decided to go with button head stainless steel bolts with nylon insert nuts. Not easy to get in some spots but its the last time I'll worry about it! boltdepot.com has a wide assortment of hardware and will sell small amounts. Its just the shipping that gets ya but they have stuff you won't find at the big box stores.

[LHyzer]

I reattached my front hood with stainless steel bolts etc. Before that I had it redone at dealers with their adhesive a couple of times and it came loose. Now I don't worry about it as it will still be there when I'm gone.

[Dr4Film]

If I was a Winnebago coach owner, I would be out with a bunch of SS fasteners securing everything that Winnebago used their magic adhesive on.

JMTCW.

(Sorry, I have edited the post to reflect the correct manufacturer.)

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[Clifftall]

Originally Posted by Dr4Film

If I was a Fleetwood coach owner, I would be out with a bunch of SS fasteners securing everything that Fleetwood used their magic adhesive on.



JMTCW.



Dr4Film ----- Richard

The op's username is FleetMan but it's about a Winnebago.

[JoeCastor]

One morning on my walk-around inspection before leaving an RV park I discovered the entire left (driver) side and rear of the rear lower fiberglass cap was detached, and was only being held on at two spots on the right side. Using bungee cords and large wire ties I was able to secure the fiberglass to the metal mounting frame until I could get to my next stop and to a repair facility. I had the shop repair it, but had I known how easy it was, I would have done it myself. The shop used a special adhesive costing $100 per tube (took 2 tubes), but I think JB Weld would have done just as good. I also think a couple of SS attach bolts may be a good idea.
I look closer on my walk-around since.

[Dr4Film]

Originally Posted by Clifftall

The op's username is FleetMan but it's about a Winnebago.

Thanks, I corrected my mistake.

Richard