Auto level assistance

[SAVGirl]

Hoping some of you can assist us. On our current trip, we have been in three, yes THREE parks where the campsites are not very level - and have really experience anxiety/frustration/concern about how to properly auto level our VISTA 35F. We try to park where as few as possible orange flashing lights are on (1 max, opposed to 2) before setting parking brake, and attempting auto level. We have experienced the rear lifting the entire unit off the ground several inches (we do not get the SUCESS sign when this happens) and having to move the coach over and over and try different locations on the campsite before we get the SUCCESS sign on auto level. This is very frustrating and we know someday we will get a small campsite that has NO LEVEL location for our coach. Yesterday, I honestly thought the thing broke when we retracted because it rocked the coach so hard retracting the jacks!!!! This is scary and I am hoping some of you with more experience can offer suggestions....Thanks. Happy Trails to You!

[GumpAir]

Time to buy some Legos, or make your own.

Pull into your spot, see which end needs to go up to get close to level, stack blocks under the appropriate wheels, drive up onto them, and then level your rig.

You get better with practice.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by SAVGirl

Hoping some of you can assist us. On our current trip, we have been in three, yes THREE parks where the campsites are not very level - and have really experience anxiety/frustration/concern about how to properly auto level our VISTA 35F. We try to park where as few as possible orange flashing lights are on (1 max, opposed to 2) before setting parking brake, and attempting auto level. We have experienced the rear lifting the entire unit off the ground several inches (we do not get the SUCESS sign when this happens) and having to move the coach over and over and try different locations on the campsite before we get the SUCCESS sign on auto level. This is very frustrating and we know someday we will get a small campsite that has NO LEVEL location for our coach. Yesterday, I honestly thought the thing broke when we retracted because it rocked the coach so hard retracting the jacks!!!! This is scary and I am hoping some of you with more experience can offer suggestions....Thanks. Happy Trails to You!

SAVGirl,
Well, here's the deal. It's quite simple actually. Trying to make the mechanical operations of your leveling system compensate for off-level camp sites in many cases, can be futile, as you've experienced. They are designed to ASSIST in leveling your coach, not compensate for parking on the side of a mountain, just kidding.

So many folks think that the leveling systems will COMPLETELY level a coach, no matter how un level the campsite is. Well, as you've seen, not true. And, while the manufacturers of the now-a-days leveling systems do a fair job of making these systems work, they're not infallible. They have their limits.

So, with all that being said, I'll suggest what I've suggested a few zillion times before. And that is to carry along, a small lumber yard with you in your travels. Sometimes, it doesn't take much lumber, to get you really close to level so that, your jacks only need to FINE TUNE the leveling process and, not be over worked. Many people simply want to push a button and, not even think about it.

Well, if you're in an EXCLUSIVE RV PARK, where each individual spot is concrete and a marble won't roll in any direction 'cause it's that LEVEL, then yes, you can just push the BUTTON and, it won't have any trouble leveling your coach 'cause IT'S ALREADY LEVEL.

But, the small lumber yard I'm speaking of is not all that much. A few short pieces of 2"x6" x 18" or so. Some small 2"x4" x 8" or so. And, some Jack pads of whatever you want. Some double layered 3/4" x 10"x10" plywood will fill that need very nicely. Now, one thing, not all coaches have the room for storage of such a variety of lumber. But, here's the deal. If you have the room, and, are dedicated "boon docking" campers or, are frequent users of many State/Federal and even private, NON-HOOKUP campsites, that IN MANY CASES, pose un-level circumstances, then you already see the need for the sacrifice of space, for such a lumber yard.

You see, if you take just a little bit of time, to drive up on some of the lumber I've suggested, TO PRIMARILY LEVEL THE COACH, then, use your jack pads (due to the need for your jacks to not travel so far, due to you already lifted one or more sides or ends, to accomplish primary leveling) to FINE TUNE what's needed for the rest the leveling process, then you've not strained the coach, the leveling jacks/system and, YOURSELF!

Once you learn to analyze a parking spot, you'll automatically think: "I'll need to raise this tire or that set of tires with my blocks, and, we'll be fine with a just a touch of the jacks helping". And, sometimes, moving the coach a few inches forward, backward, to one side or the other, can make leveling quite easier. I hope this has helped some.
Scott


P.S. This is what we carry but, we have the space for it, and, I've USED IT SEVERAL TIMES in many camping spots. I'm surely not advocating you carry what I do, just something to help with your situations and, less frustration.

[jewallace]

I have a Vista 27N and had the same problem. I do carry and have at times used some of the Lynx levelers. However, I found a great deal of my problem was caused by using the automatic level vs the manual. I even had the auto system tested and recalibrated but it would still put the front end waaay too high and sometimes have the tires off the ground which is dangerous. Since then, I learned to level manually which is very simple and I have rarely had issues. I have only had one site that required to use the additional Lynx levelers. Hope this helps.

[Hikerdogs]

We just setup in a campsite similar to the ones you describe. I tried the auto level, but even with the front wheels 4" off the ground the jacks weren't long enough to get the coach level.

We've had this problem several times over the years so we purchased 2 sets of these blocks.
RV Leveling Blocks, 10 pack - Cp Technologies Company RKCW819010 - Chocks & Levelers - Camping World

Here's the leveling process I followed:

Plug the 120 volt power cord into the pedestal. This is necessary because you'll need to raise and lower the jacks a couple times. You'll get a Low Voltage signal if you try to raise or lower the jacks without either leaving the engine run or plugging into shore power.

1. Park with the front end lowest to avoid lifting the rear wheels off the ground
2. Place a 12" square 1 1/2" thick plywood pad under each leveler.
3. Turn the ignition key to accessory, turn on the leveling system and Attempt auto level. Results were, left front tire 3" off the ground - right front tire 2" off the ground - still not level.
3. Retract all jacks and add 3 plastic leveling blocks on top of the plywood pad under each front jack.
4. Put the leveling system in manual and extend both front jacks as far as they will go. Both front wheels are now off the ground about 6".
5. Place 2 sets of plastic blocks 4 blocks high (front to rear) under the left front wheel (note they will slide under the wheel with plenty of room to spare).
6. Place 2 sets of plastic blocks 3 blocks high (front to rear) under the right front wheel (note they will also slide under the wheel with plenty of room to spare).
7. Retract all jacks and shut off the system.
8. Turn on the system and hit the auto level button
9. When the panel displays "success" turn the ignition key to the off position and remove the key

After all the blocks were in place the system automatically leveled the coach without lifting any wheels of the ground or the sets of pads placed below it. The whole process took a total of 20 plastic pads (2 sets of ten blocks each) under the front wheels and leveling jacks in addition to the 4 plywood pads we normally place under the leveling jacks.

This is the most uneven situation we've encountered in 16+ years of RVing. The whole process took between 15 and 20 minutes. I much prefer the plastic blocks to wood or any other material. They are much lighter (9 lbs. per set of 10) and can be locked together if necessary. We've used them numerous times under our 2001 Winnebago Adventurer on the 20,500 lb. chassis and on our 2013 Adventurer on the 22,000 lb. chassis.

[530ktm]

Apparently Fire Up and I went to the same school of leveling our coaches. I might add that when I first brought my coach home the auto level would always have the rear end up way too high. I read the manual and re calibrated the system and it now works perfectly. Just be sure that if and when you put the rear tires on blocks to put them under both tires. After a few times you will do this like a pro.

[SuperGewl]

I have a 35F and have only experienced trouble when the site is really unleveled and or when someone is moving around during the level process.
First I would take the coach to a pretty level parking lot and do the Auto Level. After the coach has completed this operation verify level with an actual level. Then if you don't have any installed already install a set of level in the cockpit, this way when you pull in you can see just how level the space actually is before turning on the Leveling System. I also won an electronic level that I used in my 5th wheel to check the level of the coach near the fridge on the floor. I use the cheapo TT Levels in the cockpit and they work just great.
Once you have set this up raise the jacks and move the coach to another spot using the just installed levels and see how level it is then operate the Auto Level and see how level it ends up.
Hopefully you are performing the Auto Level prior to putting out the slides per the Owners Manual.
If you use block under the wheels to help level then you must use the same amount of blocks under the jacks near that wheel also. The jacks can only lift the chassis so far and if you have already lifted the chassis by driving up on blocks then you need to compensate the same amount for the jacks.
Hopefully this will help.
Also never park with the rear of the MH down hill, you never want to raise the rear wheels off the ground.

[SAVGirl]

Thank you all so much for these great suggestions. We always plug in the electricity, leave the motor running and keep a good eye on the orange lights on the auto level system, BEFORE we hit the auto level button. We will recalibrate the system, hit Lowes for some wood blocks and try all the suggestions. THANKS AGAIN. Happy Trails to you.

[frede]

Originally Posted by SuperGewl

...If you use block under the wheels to help level then you must use the same amount of blocks under the jacks near that wheel also. The jacks can only lift the chassis so far and if you have already lifted the chassis by driving up on blocks then you need to compensate the same amount for the jacks...

Great advice

[Gormleys]

Just one more small point that I don't see posted. Remember that the rear wheels have the parking brakes. If at all possible, position the coach so that the blocks are under the front wheels and not the back. Nothing worse than a multi-ton vehicle moving because the rear wheels and leveling blocks are sliding and the parking brakes aren't doing anything.