Auto Switch-over From Heat Pump to Furnace

[Hikerdogs]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvarner Same with mine. I was under the impression that the input amperage needs to be at least 30a to work properly with power sharing since both compressors are on. Try it on generator if the temps are right. Richard

I agree with your assessment. The first compressor draws about 22 amps at startup Then draws 16-18 amps while running. When the second compressor kicks in the amp draw spikes to about 32 amps momentarily then settles down to 24 - 26 amps with both compressors running.

[Madrona]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hikerdogs I agree with your assessment. The first compressor draws about 22 amps at startup Then draws 16-18 amps while running. When the second compressor kicks in the amp draw spikes to about 32 amps momentarily then settles down to 24 - 26 amps with both compressors running.

Well, I don't know what to think. OP here. As I said, I've been running the heat pump on the 12 guage extension cord for a few months. Never an issue. Of course, everything else drops out of the equation when the HP starts up, but it all works normally. I do believe only one side of the HP is running, however, but that seems to be enough to keep the coach at about the 52 degrees I've set it at.

Today, I went out to the coach. Nothing was running at the time. It was about 55 degrees outside, 52 inside. I turned off the heat system, completely, waited about 3 minutes and turned it back on. Then I adjusted the temp to 54 degrees and the heat pump started. I lowered the temp setting to 52 and the heat pump shut down. I guess it's a self-healing system. No other explanation available at this time. I will keep an eye on it, but based on it's history of working day in and day out, I'm thinkin' it's fixed.

Thanks to everyone for their thoughts and opinions.

[rvarner]

[QUOTE=Madrona;1074178]Well, I don't know what to think. OP here. As I said, I've been running the heat pump on the 12 guage extension cord for a few months. Never an issue. Of course, everything else drops out of the equation when the HP starts up, but it all works normally. I do believe only one side of the HP is running, however, but that seems to be enough to keep the coach at about the 52 degrees I've set it at.

Today, I went out to the coach. Nothing was running at the time. It was about 55 degrees outside, 52 inside. I turned off the heat system, completely, waited about 3 minutes and turned it back on. Then I adjusted the temp to 54 degrees and the heat pump started. I lowered the temp setting to 52 and the heat pump shut down. I guess it's a self-healing system. No other explanation available at this time. I will keep an eye on it, but based on it's history of working day in and day out, I'm thinkin' it's fixed.

Here's what my owners manual says about the heat pump. "The system is designed to automatically start the furnace when the temp falls to 5 degrees or more below set point with pump running..... If the outside temp falls below 36 degrees, the heat pump will be disabled and the furnace will turn on....If the furnace must assist the heat pump three times in a row, the pump will be disabled for 2 hours. After 2 hrs the pump will try again to be the primary heat source

I don't know how much more complicated it can get-good luck
Richard

[Hikerdogs]

Even a 20 amp circuit will allow you to over draw the rated amount of current for a breif period. Under ideal conditions you may only be drawing 22 amps for a second or so. I would check all the connections from the outlet through the transfer switch. I would bet that somewhere along the line you have at least 1 marginal connection that on occasion produces enough resistance to up the current draw to a point where the monitor shuts the system down.

I would include in your inspection removing the faceplate on the outlet to look for burned or loose wires. Remove the cover on the transfer switch and make sure all wires are secure. I would also inspect the plug and socket ends of your extension cord and coach power cord. If the contact blades aren't bright and shinny they may be producing enough resistance to shut you down. Keep in mind all the resistance doesn't necessarily have to be in 1 connection. It can be cumulative.