Automatic Power Transfer Switch Problem

[LR]

I am having an electrical shutdown problem that happens generaly once a day in the mid afternoon with the outdoor temperatures in the 90's, hooked-up to 30 amp service, both airs are on and drawing about 22 amps. When this occurs the Energy Management System 30 amp light goes out and the 50 amp light goes on and the only appliance light remaining on is the refrigerator. After about 5 or 10 minutes, the power comes back on and everything is OK until the next day, when it sometimes happens again. No breakers trip in the motorhome or on the outside power source.

When I asked the service dept. representative at our dealership he felt the problem could be the Automatic Power Transfer Switch, and to check for any loose wires or burned areas. Did that, an no loose wires or burned areas.

Has anyone else experience this problem, and, if so, how did you fix it.

We have a 2005 Adventure 38J.

[LR]

I am having an electrical shutdown problem that happens generaly once a day in the mid afternoon with the outdoor temperatures in the 90's, hooked-up to 30 amp service, both airs are on and drawing about 22 amps. When this occurs the Energy Management System 30 amp light goes out and the 50 amp light goes on and the only appliance light remaining on is the refrigerator. After about 5 or 10 minutes, the power comes back on and everything is OK until the next day, when it sometimes happens again. No breakers trip in the motorhome or on the outside power source.

When I asked the service dept. representative at our dealership he felt the problem could be the Automatic Power Transfer Switch, and to check for any loose wires or burned areas. Did that, an no loose wires or burned areas.

Has anyone else experience this problem, and, if so, how did you fix it.

We have a 2005 Adventure 38J.

[KIX]

Sounds like you must have a load shedding feature and it is shedding load up to the point that there is no more load to shed. At that point the ATS must be getting hot (can you verify this?) and shutting down on what sounds like a thermal overload. when it cools down it reconnects. I don't know if an ATS has a thermal overload or not but that's what it sounds like. If what I have said is correct then your amp guage is not correct. I'm doing some guessing here so take that into account.

[NJWIT]

We had to replace our transfer switch this summer. We were camped out at different campgrounds for 2 weeks with no problems this summer. Plugged in at a State campground in Plattsburgh NY & popped the breaker after approx 30 seconds. Maintenance replaced breaker with no results. Started generator & power was normal in coach. Diagnosed as bad transfer switch & replaced myself. Inspection revealed one pitted contact. Replacement switch relay contacts had twice the contact surface on the points. Coach is an Itasca Sunflyer & was built Nov 02.

[jimandsue60]

Is the frige on AC or LP, is the water heater on LP or AC, do you have control of how many amps go to the battery charger. All these things could be causing a spike and shutting things down.

When we are on 30 amps I will let the airconditioner do what it wants but I will make sure water heater and fridge are on LP. I can also control the amount of amps going to the charger and set that at 5 amps.

Jim

[LR]

Thanks for the replies. Refrigerator and water heater are both on propane. Do not have any way to control as to how many amps are going to the charger.

[vicsryd]

Consider it may be the PowerLine system itself versus the physical transfer switch. They have been known to loose their minds.

Search for Powerline in this forum and you'll get lots of background information.