Bad disconnect?

[On A Tour]

is it possible that the electrical disconnect could quit functioning? Have an '07 Tour TD. It has one disconnect on a panel just inside the door, which would normally shut down the house batteries; then there is a (circular)Onan master disconnect back by the engine that supposedly is an overall shutdown for everything. Chassis batteries are fine, but the house batteries (now about 27 mos. out of 30) seem totally drained. Even after running the gen. for an hour, they barely registered. Even with both disconnects-OFF, I could hear a faint chirping noise near the refridgerator, but couldn't run it down. If I hold the inside disconnect over to the off side, sound stops--when it springs back, can barely hear it. Is it possible that it never completely shut off and some small parasitic drain from the fridge (also off) could have pulled them down over several weeks----EVEN WITH the Master turned off? I was planning on replacing the batteries anyway before fall trip, but don't want to ruin (3) new ones. If they were low enough, is it possible for the batteries to cause this kind of action/sound with the cut-off. Have replaced them at 2 yrs. and have always been fine? Any similar experiences??? thanks.

[MrTransistor]

Hi Tour,

Without digging through the schematics, I first thought is that the battery disconnect uses plus 12 Volts from the coach batteries and if the coach batteries are near goon, the contactor won’t function. If it’s in the on position then it stays in the on position and vice-versa in the off position. Sounds like it’s in the on position.

Is the smoke detector under your refrigerator? Sound as though the faint chirping may be from the detector. I believe it chirps when power is removed and fades as the voltage drops. Could be that with really low voltage, it would be really faint continually.

[On A Tour]

Thnx much. I may put the new batts in and see if it knocks out the chirping. Might be the CO2 detector.

[gmanatl]

The battery disconnect near the door turns off the house batteries. The round disconnect in the battery compartment turns off the chassis batteries. The round disconnect is not a master disconnect as it has no effect on the house batteries.

[On A Tour]

So do you concur the inside disconnect may not have enough "juice" to function properly?

[gmanatl]

Quite possibly.

[wa8yxm]

First not all battery disconnects disconnect EVERYTHING.. . OFten the propane (Explosive gas) Detector remains power-on.. It will chirp if the batteries are low.

Second.. Where as I do not know about your coach on mine I have in intelletec battery control system for Gas powered motor homes (I do not know what is different about the disconnect on a gasser and a diesel but it appears there is a difference, perhaps the size of the solenoid)

IT uses a remote control switch that is a 3-position rocker (normally off)

USE (idle) Store (idle is the off position) I push USE to connect and STORE to disconnect.

At least that is the theory

I pulled into a Flying J, low on propane, and pressed STORE... I heard a CLUNK and all the 12 volt systems shut down.

I gassed up (Both Gasoline and propane) pressed USE and..... NOTHING no clunk, no 12 volts.

Well, I pulled off a work-around, then a better one in Salt Lake city, and fixed it in Las Vegas.

The switch (Remote) had failed.. IT was dirty, and I was able to clean it.

But then.. I went to college to learn how to do things like that (Ok, so I knew before I signed up for the class... but hey.. I earned a few extra credit points in that class because I knew what I knew before I signed up.. Not everybody did)

Oh, cleaning it is easy

Pull fuse

Push switch several times (Like 2-5 dozen) both use and store

Replace fuse

[Wayne M]

I have an 08 Winni, and in order to charge the house batteries the disconnect switch must be "ON." This is according to Winnebago. I have the Trikl-charge and both disconnect switches must be "ON" to charge. I was told to turn the step switch to OFF as the step motor is a stinker on draining the battery. Since I don't want the step out, and my switches are like yours, just inside the door, I reach in through the screen door with a stick and turn the step off.

Since I have been doing this I don't have a battery problem. But I am plugged in at all times with either 50, 30, or 20 amp so the charger will work.

[On A Tour]

wa8yxm nailed it!!
I'm almost positive it was the "low voltage" alarm for the propane, located near base board (floor) under the refrigerator. I replaced all (3) house batteries. All is well again.
Thanks to all for your help/responses!