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07-24-2011, 01:17 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Abingdon, MD
Posts: 55
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My AC is doing the run at 14 - 16 amps, every so often jump up to 50-54 amps trick At first it wasn't cooling at all. I've replaced both start capacitors with hard start units, replaced both run capacitors (one was leaking) and checked the compressor start relays for happy clicking. I've wiggled and jiggled all the connections (replaced a jumper on #1 relay) and played with the thermostat switch. When I turn off #4 circuit breaker (#2 compressor), I can hear/feel a compressor cut off. Then I loose all cooled air. So. Does this mean #1 compressor isn't running? Do I need to switch wires around so that whichever compressor is working, continues to work?
We would like to get out but Beloved Spouse says "No air, no way". She is really not into roughing it. If I can get one compressor functioning without the thermostat trying to start the other one every few minutes, we are good to go. I know some folks speak harshly about the basement air, but running on one compressor this unit out cools the single, un-ducted roof air in our last coach.
Anyone have ideas on this?
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2002 Winnebago Journey 36LD
Miata toad
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07-25-2011, 01:17 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: KAPOLEI, HAWAII AND VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON
Posts: 1,844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blevtr
My AC is doing the run at 14 - 16 amps, every so often jump up to 50-54 amps trick At first it wasn't cooling at all. I've replaced both start capacitors with hard start units, replaced both run capacitors (one was leaking) and checked the compressor start relays for happy clicking. I've wiggled and jiggled all the connections (replaced a jumper on #1 relay) and played with the thermostat switch. When I turn off #4 circuit breaker (#2 compressor), I can hear/feel a compressor cut off. Then I loose all cooled air. So. Does this mean #1 compressor isn't running? Do I need to switch wires around so that whichever compressor is working, continues to work?
We would like to get out but Beloved Spouse says "No air, no way". She is really not into roughing it. If I can get one compressor functioning without the thermostat trying to start the other one every few minutes, we are good to go. I know some folks speak harshly about the basement air, but running on one compressor this unit out cools the single, un-ducted roof air in our last coach.
Anyone have ideas on this?
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you can switch the components from the #2 compressor to operate when the #1 system is selected. leave the #2 cb off.
the way the system is set up, the #1 compressor must be running for the #2 system to start running.
it looks like your #1 compressor is drawing too much current. what do the lights on the aft panel show?
look at duners posts for more comprehensive basement air info.
here is some info:
Airxcel | RV Products
__________________
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks
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07-25-2011, 06:19 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Milledgeville Ga.
Posts: 1,160
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May be possible to swap the wiring around but would have to study your wiring diagrams to be sure.
If you swap the wires on the relays, it certainly won't hurt anything. If its not possible, then the unit just won't run.
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Jerry & Patsy, Taz & Jake
2000 Winnebago Journey
2006 Ford Explorer 4X4
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07-25-2011, 10:15 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 45
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If you swap the wiring around to switch which compressor runs on circuit 1, a problem you could have is the freeze thermistor inserted in the outside coil. It is placed in the bottom half for circuit 1 so since circuit 1 runs most. When in heating mode, when it gets too cold for it to heat, or it starts to ice up the thermistor turns off the heat pump. If only the top part is being used (like when on 20 amp power or 30 with other things running) the top could freeze into a block of ice and possible damage that compressor. The thermistor can be moved to the top half, but you have to remove the unit and partially disassemble it to get inside where the thermistor is inserted in the coil.
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Steve, Gail and "Shadow" (Black Cocker Spaniel)
2005 Winnebago Adventurer 38J
06 Subaru Forester toad; 67 MGB - Alternate toad
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07-25-2011, 08:06 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Abingdon, MD
Posts: 55
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The lights on the circuit board show normal voltage. Should I just switch the wires from the circuit board to the start relays, then turn off the breaker for #2, or do I need to fiddle with the capacitors too? Seems like the relays are the control circuit, yes?
__________________
2002 Winnebago Journey 36LD
Miata toad
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07-25-2011, 11:13 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: KAPOLEI, HAWAII AND VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON
Posts: 1,844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blevtr
The lights on the circuit board show normal voltage. Should I just switch the wires from the circuit board to the start relays, then turn off the breaker for #2, or do I need to fiddle with the capacitors too? Seems like the relays are the control circuit, yes?
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turn off both breakers before you start working on it.
i switched both the relay and capacitor from #1 to #2. make sure that the push on connectors are clean and tight. be careful handling the capacitors. they store a charge for a while.
turn on #1 cb, leave #2 off. this worked well for us on a 100 degree day.
__________________
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks
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