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Old 04-15-2018, 07:21 PM   #1
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Basement Air not performing well

I replaced our RV type refrigerator with a residential type. Since then it seems as though the AC does not cool the coach like it used to. Has anyone done this replacement and experienced the same loss of AC efficiency? Could the size of the AC be so close to the heat load of the coach that the new refrigerator would overload it?
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Old 04-15-2018, 08:55 PM   #2
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I really doubt the new frigs affects the 2T basement units ability to cool/heat the coach.
If you haven't, change the air filter now! It is critical to cooling/heating. If the filter is missing, you may have a problem. A missing filter allows dirt and lint to clog the fins on the inside coil of the unit. I discarded the OEM green mesh filter, and have used Filtrete brand filters ever since 2013. The only drawback is, you must change them often because they become coated with dust/lint rather quickly. The upside is, the coach stays cleaner-longer, and my asthma doesn't bother me at night. To clean the coils, the unit must be removed. Complete instructions(basement AC removal, below) may be found in the Winnebago forum, they were written by "Duner" as he perform the work on his basement heating/cooling unit.

JIC, here are my bookmarks:
Winnebago basement heat pump AC under the coach,removal Airxcel RV Products Service locations Motorhome RV HVAC Controls - Evans Tempcon Start Device Package for Coleman Air Conditioners 8333A9021 Automotive Basement A-C Removal Procedure-Revised 8-24-2013.pdf Basement AC Removal & Outdoor Blower Replacement Procedure - iRV2 Foru (...) Replacing the Coleman Mach thermostat with an Ecobee Coleman 46515-811 69859 Two Ton Plus Basement Central Air Conditioner (...) basement air conditioner compressor Coleman-Mach Air Conditioning
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:11 AM   #3
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That is all good information. I have had the MH since it was new and ALWAYS change the filter depending on how much we use it. I buy GOOD filters too. I had the unit pulled by Alliance in Wildwood and they said all was OK. Expensive job! I will keep searching, thanks.
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:39 AM   #4
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It could be as simple as a duct blowing air on the thermostat causing it to shut the ac down before the room is really cool.
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Old 04-16-2018, 08:16 AM   #5
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Another thing to check is the condenser coil under the louvered panel at the right rear of the coach. Winnebago recommends removing the 2 screws at the bottom of the panel, lifting the panel and hosing out the coils at least once or twice a year. If they get plugged with dirt, dust or whatever it will effect the efficiency of the unit.

Your residential refrigerator may in fact be affecting the difference in temperature inside the coach. The old gas absorption refrigerator was vented to the outside of the coach. The condenser coil was outside the passengers compartment behind a louvered panel on the outside of the coach. If you have a traditional residential refrigerator the condenser coil is under the unit. The heat generated by the compressor is vented inside the coach. You now have the heat from the refrigerator to deal with whereas you didn't with the old refrigerator.
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Old 04-16-2018, 08:41 AM   #6
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Good catch Hikerdogs, I was just going to ask about exactly the same thing. I've always wondered how the heat from the compressor coil was handled when people do a residential refer swap. Seems like that could make a difference.
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Old 04-16-2018, 03:21 PM   #7
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You are100% correct. In my initial post I addressed the added heat load. Do you REALLY think that they calculate the AC capacity that close? I took added precaution to prevent added heat by sealing the Refrig outside vents and insulating them.
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Old 04-17-2018, 08:40 AM   #8
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after replacing the inside filter and vacuuming the inside condenser, clean the
evaporator outside the coach. maybe i got the two components wrong, but you get the drift.
it gets clogged with stuff like the cottonwood seeds and dust. i use simple green and hose it out with a garden hose.
this is an overlooked area. i also use simple green to clean my engine radiator. it also gets clogged and that results in higher operating temps, or overheating.
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PORCHDOG View Post
You are100% correct. In my initial post I addressed the added heat load. Do you REALLY think that they calculate the AC capacity that close? I took added precaution to prevent added heat by sealing the Refrig outside vents and insulating them.
A little research shows the average residential refrigerator generates about 3,700 btu's in waste energy per hour of operation. That may seem insignificant until you consider the average gas furnace in an RV only generates between 35,000 and 40,000 btu's per hour. The refrigerator is exhausting about 1/10 of what the furnace is capable of generating. To me that would be a significant load increase for the AC to deal with. That's probably why the original was vented to the outside.
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hikerdogs View Post
A little research shows the average residential refrigerator generates about 3,700 btu's in waste energy per hour of operation. That may seem insignificant until you consider the average gas furnace in an RV only generates between 35,000 and 40,000 btu's per hour. The refrigerator is exhausting about 1/10 of what the furnace is capable of generating. To me that would be a significant load increase for the AC to deal with. That's probably why the original was vented to the outside.
I appreciate your research. That adds to my belief in NOT switching to a residential refrigerator.
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Old 04-18-2018, 10:09 AM   #11
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Check your filter also check your duct work coming off the unit and ensure all joints are tight and sealed..
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