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Old 02-22-2012, 07:58 PM   #1
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Basement door latch replacement

I just purchased 3 new basement door latches( the ones with the teflon tongue). If anyone has replaced these I would sure appreciate some insight. Looks to me like the whole frame has to be disassembled to remove and reinstall. Definitely not maint. friendly. Thanks in advance.


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Old 02-22-2012, 11:15 PM   #2
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I'm not sure what it's like on your 2000 Adventurer, bu on my 2005 Vectra there is a plastic cover on the inside of the basement doors behind the door handle in the middle of the door. (Looking at the pictures in the 2000 Adventurer brochure it looks like you have something similar.)

To replace the latch you remove the plastic cover, exposing the inner workings of the handle mechanism. You should see a metal rod going to each latch at the side of the door. I don't remember precisely, but I believe that I unhooked the rods from the center mechanism first. (On mine there is solid styrofoam inside the door, so the metal rod is constrained and can't fall down/out, but if you don't have that you may need to make sure that you hold onto it until you can attach it to the new latch.) Drill out the pop rivets holding the broken latch to the edge of the door, unhooking it from the metal rod. Hook the new latch on and secure it with a couple of aluminum pop rivets, reconnect things in the center, put the plastic cover back on, and you should be all set.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:18 AM   #3
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Chris described it very well ...not a big deal once you get at it. After you've done one, the next time it might be a ten minute job at most. Of course, you do need some proper size pop rivets and cheap pop rivet gun.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:32 AM   #4
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I must have not described my issue properly. The lock and latch assy. (center) is not the problem. The latch on either end of the door is what malfunctioned. I have 3 that just won't cooperate. Like you said, the door is solid foam and appears to have a nest where the tongue latch is located. Thanks for the info., I'll have to do that first.
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:25 PM   #5
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I understand that you need to replace the latch assembly at the edge of the door. It is connected via a rod to the handle mechanism in the center of the door. You need to get access to that so that you can unhook the rod in the center, allowing you to remove the latch at the door edge (after drilling out the pop rivets).
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:00 PM   #6
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I think you were clear ...Winnie calls the piece the "slide bolt" ...spring-loaded and pops out each side of the door and is operated by the "paddle latch assembly" mounted toward the center of the door. You may be able to replace the slide bolt w/o removing the paddle latch depending on your setup ...only reason to remove the paddlelatch is to get to the rods that connect to the slide bolt IF you need to take them loose.
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:31 PM   #7
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Hi Ho: We have the same (similar) coach. The problem is that the latch mechanism installs from the inside (not the outside). The only way to get to it is to take the skin off the door. This bothered me a little, but I just went ahead and drilled out the rivits that hold the skins on and all was well. It does mean a couple more rivits, but it isn't as bad as you might think.

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Old 02-23-2012, 05:28 PM   #8
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Thanks Dirk and everyone else that replied. I sorta kinda thought it was going to be more difficult than a couple of rivets out and back in. Too bad it's 3 different doors. Guess I'll be an expert by the time I finish.

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Old 02-23-2012, 06:31 PM   #9
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If I remember when I did mine the trick was being able to get to the rod (that pulls the plastic catch in) and disconnecting it from the broken latch. Drill out the pop rivets on the side of the door and reconnecting the rod to the new latch and rerivet.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirko View Post
Hi Ho: We have the same (similar) coach. The problem is that the latch mechanism installs from the inside (not the outside). The only way to get to it is to take the skin off the door. This bothered me a little, but I just went ahead and drilled out the rivits that hold the skins on and all was well. It does mean a couple more rivits, but it isn't as bad as you might think.

Dirk
Are you saying that there isn't a plastic cover over the inside of the latch mechanism? It certainly looks like there is one in the photos in the 2000 Adventurer brochure.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:58 PM   #11
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Hi Ho Chris: I don't know about other coache, but on our 2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U there isn't. I don't know why.
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:31 AM   #12
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Page 72 of the 2000 Adventurer 35U Parts Catalog shows a breakdown of all of the parts that make up the compartment doors. It sure looks like item key #3 in that diagram (Cover, Latch, Black) is a plastic cover over the inside of the mechanism, matching what I see in the brochure and very similar to what's on my coach.
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Old 11-24-2016, 03:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
I think you were clear ...Winnie calls the piece the "slide bolt" ...spring-loaded and pops out each side of the door and is operated by the "paddle latch assembly" mounted toward the center of the door. You may be able to replace the slide bolt w/o removing the paddle latch depending on your setup ...only reason to remove the paddlelatch is to get to the rods that connect to the slide bolt IF you need to take them loose.
Where might I order this slide bolt you speak of? just had one break last night...
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Old 11-24-2016, 03:45 PM   #14
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Take a look at THIS link.

Do yourself a favor and do NOT replace the broken latch with the factory plastic latches. These are the same price and won't break... ever
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Old 11-24-2016, 04:44 PM   #15
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I have got the originals from Lichtsinn Motors in Forest City. In 2006 they were $5.36 ea.
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Old 11-24-2016, 07:29 PM   #16
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Wow, no wonder they break... I saw them in an RV supply in Palm Springs for ~$13
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Old 11-25-2016, 11:16 AM   #17
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Jeff is right on the money. I have dealt with RB Machining more than once for these pesky latches. In Alaska, one good door slam in cold weather will break the plastic ones. I have changed out 5 of mine now because they broke. I carry three spares for when the other plastic ones give out. No problems with the aluminum ones.
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Old 11-25-2016, 11:54 AM   #18
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I forgot about this post I did here:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/repl...es-236108.html
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Old 11-26-2016, 07:45 AM   #19
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Thanks all!
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Old 08-16-2018, 12:07 AM   #20
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At the risk of restarting a dormant thread...

I found this because I've got a bunch of bad latches on a 99 Winn Adventurer I recently purchased. The latch assemblies are riveted to the INSIDE of the frame of the door.
For each latch, you have to drill out 5 small rivets and the 2 larger rivets that hold the latch assembly so that you can then remove the side piece of the frame.
It's not a terrible job but man, I'm envious of the folks that can do it without disassembling their door.
I'll try to do a thread on it somewhere as I've been searching and cannot find thread that describes it. I think most other models and years got it right.
Winnebago Parts also sent a latch to me that's a little different what was in the door, but that's yet another issue.
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