Can I move the rock guard forward?

[Bullhead Bob]

Hello,
New guy here. 98' 36 Winnebago Cummins.
Just wondered if anyone knows if moving the rock guard forward 6 in. or so will have any adverse effects on the engine cooling? I thought perhaps the airflow to the (pusher) radiator may be effected.
If I can't move it forward the guard will be pinched occasionally by the new "skid wheels" I had to install.
Thanks for your help,
Bullhead Bob

[AFChap]

Rear radiator? ...or side?

Either way, I don't see how moving the rock guard would affect air flow through the radiator enough to make any difference ... it isn't blocking air to the radiator. I've seen rock guards anywhere from totally at the rear to halfway or more to the rear wheels. You could rig some new mounts and try it, or you could just drop the rock guard all together ...most coaches also have small mud flaps immediately behind the rear wheels. From everything I've read, the solid full-width flap cause more damage than they prevent, especially if they run less than 8 inches or so from the ground.

[Hitchhiker]

Hi Bob,

Welcome to iRV2, I see you joined today; we’re really glad to have you here as a new member and are looking forward to reading your posts about your RVing experiences and adventures. You’ll find a great bunch of folks on this site who are very knowledgeable of RVing, the rigs we use, and the places we go in them.

As you’ll see, they’re eager to help and share their knowledge and experiences with others. Someone should be along soon to answer your question regarding moving the rock guard, I'm a trailer guy myself so I don't have a clue.


Again, welcome to iRV2, we’re glad you joined.

[powerboatr]

welcome aboard as well

on my coach the distance from my rock guard to the lower radiator fairing is over a foot, i wouldn't imagine it would hurt anything to move it forward.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullhead Bob Hello, New guy here with a 98' 36 Winnebago Cummins Pusher Just wondered if anyone knows if moving the rock guard forward 6 in. or so will have any adverse effects on the engine cooling? I thought perhaps the airflow to the (pusher) radiator may be effected.

Bob, I am not aware of any rock guard being a component of a rear engine diesel's cooling strategy. The cooling air is directed into the cool pack and as such the rock guard impacts this process little if any.

You should be able to move your rock guard forward 6" as you stated without adverse effects. My rock guard support was welded in place. I hope yours is easier to work with. Good luck with your project!

[Chuck 1935]

I have a Rock Guard on the farthest most rear that I could get it. I have tried all locations toward the front and nothing worked at stopping the stones and gravel from covering the towed car. Mine is mounted behind the hitch reciever so that I had to cut a hole through the rock guard to slide the hitch into the reciever and two other holes for the safety chain extension links that I stuck through the rock guard. I made the mount out of one inch square tubing that extends across the back of the Motorhome and is attached to the hitch frame. The guard goes from side to side with no gaps and two inches above the road. Your roller should be forward of the set up that I made and shouldn't be affected. I left the fancy guard hanging in it original useless position. None of the changes have affected the cooling in any way. My exhaust exits out the back but I was able to raise the pipe just enough that is above the rock guard. Hope that helps. I have not had any stone issues since I bit the bullit and mounted the rock guard as described.

[Cliff Z]

Chuck: That's an interesting place to locate the rock guard. I would think that if you had skid wheels it would be a problem when you back up an incline as I've had to do numerous times at certain RV pads.
I've run with and without the guard with no noticeable temperature change.
Best regards

[Chuck 1935]

Could you just frame a couple of openings for the rollers so that when backing up and the rock guard folds under the wheels will poke through. I also think that if did not make the holes the wheels would wear them in. I don't think it would hurt the rock guard, it's really tough stuff.
The problem I had when the guard was farther forward was that the stones and gravel would go over and under the rock guard and get up on the tow car. I REALLY have tried all kind and all locations and what I have written hear is the only thing that works. This was the cheapest and easiest thing that worked.

[rvarner]

Lost my rock guard to a "big alligator" last year. Replacement was about $500 so ordered two $18 mudflaps. I'll swear the thing runs cooler or maybe it's the cold medicine or my imagination.
Richard

[Chuck 1935]

To make myself clear, I'm talking about a Rock Solid rock guard at Camping World for about $80. I have an expensive one that say ITASCA on a beautiful stainless steel plate that is still mounted in it's original spot. All it does is look pretty. No matter where you mount it, it is too short to really work as any kind of guard.

[MaverickBBD]

One of the fancy smansy new rock guards on the market now are for lack of a better term, two piece. I am not talking mudflaps behind the wheel but instead of the full width flap there are two approx. 3/4 length flaps in the rear of the coach. The selling points of these are: 1) better air flow to the radiator and 2) considerably less weight. At the asking price for there new ones I will keep my old one right where it is for the time being.

[Chuck 1935]

The $80. Rock Solid is a two piece that is supposed to mount on the rear and leave a small opening for the hitch to poke through. I mounted mine so that there is no gap between them and cut a small square hole for the hitch to go into the reciever. I have tried the kind of shield that streaches between the MH and the toad which worked quite well but required setting up. Also the rock shield that stands up in front of the toad. All of which required an extra step when hooking up and are expensive. The way I did it was cheap, $80., was totally effective and did not require an extra step in hooking up, which is a real bonus in the rain.

[AFChap]

Chuck

If I understand you right, you still have the original Itasca flap still on the coach in it's original postion (maybe 3-5 ft from the rear of the coach?), and then at the extreme rear you mounted ANOTHER full width flap that is virtually brushing the ground (2 in clearance) ??

Everything I have read about full width flaps indicates if they are close to the road surface, they tend to "suck" debris up and into the toad rather than deflecting it. (and they tend to get crushed, bent, etc when going through dips, etc).

If I understand you correctly, you indicate that your setup of TWO flaps full width flaps seems to do the job?

[Route 66]

Quote:

two inches above the road.

I believe that is causing the problem.

When the rear flap contacts the road, stones are kicked up.

I raised my flap so it's about 6" above the road and I've never had any toad damage.