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Old 08-21-2007, 01:57 PM   #1
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Cargo Door Latch Replacement - 2003 Ultimate Freedom

2003 Ultimate Freedom

Plastic piece that slides in and out to latch and secure cargo door -- broke in half

Best way to FIX ? ?
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Old 08-21-2007, 01:57 PM   #2
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2003 Ultimate Freedom

Plastic piece that slides in and out to latch and secure cargo door -- broke in half

Best way to FIX ? ?
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Old 08-21-2007, 02:48 PM   #3
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I will be very interested in hearing answers to this question. I have a similar problem on my '98, the latch pin is stuck in the open position on one side of a door. The fittings are rivited in place. I would like to get it freed up so it again latches securely.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:29 PM   #4
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I have had two of these break on my Horizon. When the second one broke I ordered two extra from a Winnie dealer.

They are easy to replace. Drill out the rivets on the latch, take out the latch handle behind the door by removing 3 or 4 screws. It is pretty self explanatory from that point on. Use a rivet gun to replace the rivets on the new latch.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:42 PM   #5
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Yep, not a hard fix. Here's a blow by blow description...

Replacing storage compartment door latch bolt/plunger

Tools: Phillips screwdriver, drill & 3/16 or 1/4" drill bit, pop rivet tool, 2 3/16" aluminum pop rivets

You replacement probably is Winnebago part #121947-01-01A Bolt w/Plunger. Lichtsinn Motors in Forest City price apx $5 each (local dealer price apx $12.95)

Drill out old 3/16" aluminum rivets. From inside the door, remove the latch mechanism. You might need to tie a string onto the rod & hold it in place with the clip. (You're going to pull the rod partially out the side, and if it falls into the door you'll have to take the door apart to retrieve it, my doors are filled with insulation so no danger of the rod falling into the cavity)

Pull the bolt out (the rod will come with it) until you can disengage it from the actuating rod (a couple of inches or so), taking note of what hole in the bolt the rod is in. Put the new bolt on the rod, making sure the bolt is oriented the correct way, & using the same hole for the rod. Shove the bolt back in, pulling the string at the same time to guide the rod.

Pop rivet the new bolt assembly into place, remove the clip and string from the rod, and reinstall the rod & clip into the latch mechanism. Re-install the latch and cover, and you're done.
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:15 AM   #6
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Somewhere on this forum I thought I saw a post with the diagram of the mechanical assembly. If not your dealer can e mail or fax it to you for addition help with the instructions above. It cost me $85 at a local dealer a few years ago to get it replaced. I would have tried it myself but I planned to leave for an extended trip the next day. Since that time the lubrication and cleaning of the latches and linkage is a bi monthly operation
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:15 PM   #7
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Thanks for the information. It sounds like a project I can handle. Although, who needs yet another project.
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Old 08-24-2007, 01:31 PM   #8
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Before I try to start this project, does anyone know where I can obtain an exploded drawing of the door latch assembly? I checked through my "parts" manual for my model year and can not find the drawing I am looking for.
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Old 08-24-2007, 08:42 PM   #9
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No idea about where to get an exploded drawing of the latch assembly ...I've never seen any. Before I replaced my broken latch bolt/plunger, I had had to replace probably six of the compartment door latches (nomenclature "latch/paddle keyed/2 sided") on my coach, so I was quite familiar with the setup. In '04, the inside of the latch was changed and is less likely to break like so many of mine did ...mostly under warranty.

If yours are anything like mine, there is a rod that attaches to each side of the latch, and goes to the latch bolt on each side of the door. When you pull up on the latch handle, the inside of the latch rotates and pulls the rods to pull the latch bolts in so you can open the door. It's pretty simple.

As GG1 indicated, I do now lubricate my latch bolts a couple of times a year. Also don't normally allow the doors to slam shut, and am careful not to try to jerk the door open before I have the latch handle firmly pulled.
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Old 08-25-2007, 05:59 AM   #10
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Thanks AFChap for the reply, and thanks to Fenceman for posting this. I have the parts on order. It doesn't sound too complicated.
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Old 08-25-2007, 02:58 PM   #11
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Kazoo Tom,
I had to do the same thing. Once you undo the screws from the backside of the door panel everything is totally self explanitory. I just had to get up the gumption to do it. The main tool to have is the drill and the rivit-gun. It was so easy and I felt like a hero when I did it. I got wife points too, and sometimes that's the hardest thing to do!
I too ordered two extra latches. I talked to a motorhome repairman and he said that he's replaced at least a hundred of these.
Mine broke when I closed it at -20 degrees in Fairbanks. And no, I was not fulltiming it at the time!
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Old 08-26-2007, 10:45 AM   #12
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Hi Tom. I have one broke also and I was just at Forest City and was told they would have to take the door itself a part. The older Models are this way. The newer ones can be replaced from inside the handle
Please let me know how it goes

Thanks Tcloud
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Old 10-04-2007, 12:53 AM   #13
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Tom??????????????
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Old 10-04-2007, 04:47 AM   #14
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I have had to replace three on my MH -- bought 6 when I purchased to have a few spare. I also bought the latches that the plungers fit into -- I had two of those missing (?) and had to buy both the flush type and offset type -- my MH has both on it.

The latch fix was very easy. Open the door and take off the molded cover in the center of the door to expose the handle/opening mechanism. You will see the rods that go to the side of the door to operate the latch -- one going to each side. I used a pair of needle nose plyers to snap off the retainer spring and then removed the end of the rod from the door opening cam. My door is foam filled so I did not have to worry about the rod falling into the door. Drill out the rivets from the edge of the door and then the whole "mechanism" will slide out. Make sure you put the rod into the same hole on the new latch, slide it back in, threading the rod to where it needs to be and pop rivet the new latch into place. Reconnect the metal retainer spring, put the plastic cover back into place and the job is done. It takes about 10 minutes a latch. If I did not have the foam in the door, I would tie a piece of small strong cord to the latch rod when it was removed and then you can pull / guide it back into place when the new latching mechanism is put on the end (will also prevent the rod from falling into the door and then -- you will have to take the door apart to get the rod back). Actually this is a very easy fix.
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