Changes you have made to your Meridian or Journey??

[wgh]

Mackspot1

I am also interested in the gutter extension and solar panel info.

Thanks
Bill

[jerichorick]

I installed the Fan-Tastic Fan 7350 upgrade kit this morning. I was going to send it back because our fan installation is different than the rest of the world. Talking with Fan-Tastic, I found out that our fan assembly is called a "clamp fan". The corners of the base are modified from the square fan to fit this enclosure.

To use the upgrade kit I had to remove the components from my base and install the components from the new base onto it. Because there are sensors mounted to the base I had to make holes for them and I had to modify the circuit board mounting. The wiring instructions are "typical installation" type so if they don't make your model style known you simply guess. It took me about 2 hours but the results is well worth the effort.

Now the wall switch is a decoration along with a switch on the fan. The remote is mounted in the monitor center cabinet and looks almost like it belongs there.

The remote is the IR type so you need to be in site of the sensor in the fan. The "Auto" control worked great on the test and the "Manual" control is a great tool. I am very pleased that I got this accomplished without gremlins helping me.

This install is not for the shy or clumsy. Modifying the base could look really bad if care is not taken and the wiring can be confusing. I installed plugs in the abandoned holes after drilling then to the plug size. Dresses things up a bit.

I am very pleased that it is working as well as it is by design. If I want I may re-activate the wall switch by the ground lead. This would take power off the board when the fan is not needed. Getting it to work was my priority this morning.

Attached are a few reference pictures.

Rick Y

[mackspot1]

Solar Panels-panels come with predrilled holes on the aluminum sides that one attaches Z brackets.You can usually purchase these from a company that sells the panels or make your own. I laid the panels on the roof to see which area would best serve without shading or blocking a path to walk down the roof. I put mine all on one side, two side by side and one next to them. Once I laid them down I marked holes with a pencil, moved them to drill through the roof(the % chance of you hitting a cross section support is not very high but do not worry about that). Then I took 3M double sided tape (same size as the Z bracket) and put that over the roofing drilled holes insuring that the tape hole was over the roof hole. The brackets are then screwed down w/ stainless 1" screws including washers and lock washers in the correct order obviously. I put silicone/waterproof caulk around the screws first. Once all the panels are in place then use self leveling Dicor on top of every area that you infiltrated the roof cavity. I also did use a 4x4 Plastic waterproof grey Junction box from home depot and drilled holes into it to contain the wires (all wires from panels that were exposed to the elements were done w/ a uv type sleeve) I did this rather than daisy chain the panels. I then used the existing hole in the roof covered by a Winnebago cover for the existing small trickle charge solor panel (10Watt) that does down to the Power Management System on our Rig. Then used another cover and screwed it down and then used Dicor to cover it. I used a Zamp Solar Controller which you can read about pm their web site and they also make kits.

For the gutter extenders we all pretty much know there are not really any that just fit our coaches. I at least have not seen any that fit ours. I used the Camco ones. I used a ladder to get up the roof on each side and cut one side of the Camco extenders. They come in either black or white. And in a four pack. Then snapped in one side onto the gutter and fashioned water proof silicone around the area to make it water tight then used a siliconized caulk to finish the job the next day after the actual silicone was dry. They sit very high up as you know so typically you cannot see any thing of the caulk you used. I have done a similar retro on another MH I had and this worked fine.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by WBandJ

We would be interested in the LED light inside plastic door handle at the entrance modification.

I did this on my coach. I don't recall where I bought mine but this is what you are looking for: http://stores.ebay.com/BOAT-AND-RV-A...fsub=479200013

My handle is adjacent to my entry door console. I drilled the bottom handle mounting area to gain access to my patio light switch and power. When I removed the magazine rack I had full access to the wiring and switch. (Note: It is best to mount the LED in the lower mount. If water happens to get into the mount it will not get to the LED as quickly.) If you insert a smooth piece of aluminum foil in the upper mount against the top of the handle it will act as a reflector.

When mounting the handle back to the coach seal the contact areas with a good clear caulk and make certain the LED is all the way into the mount.

This was a easy install and it looks great. It is too bad Winnebago chose this feature as a way to economize.

Sorry I don't have pictures but you really don't need any. Just remember that white is ground.

Rick Y

[mhollis2]

We would be interested in the LED light inside plastic door handle at the entrance modification.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by mhollis2

We would be interested in the LED light inside plastic door handle at the entrance modification.

Hi Mike and Mary. I did this modification to my coach. We love it. Here is one link I found for the LED:LIGHTING: nwrvsupply.com

The LED goes in the lower handle holder. Any water that may get in won't get to the LED. The top could act as a basin. A piece of aluminum foil goes in the top holder as a reflector. Both are placed as close to the acrylic as possible. Use some foam rubber material to hold these in place.

Remove the magazine rack next to the copilot seat. This gives you access to the porch light switch and needed wiring.

After removing the handle I drilled a hole in the area behind the lower handle just large enough to accommodate the wire connectors + wire. Make certain you protect the wires in the cabinet.

Use automotive wire taps to bring the switch wire and ground (new wire supplied by you) through the hole. Identifying these wires is not that bad if you have a bit of automotive wiring experience and a meter.

After the connections are made on both ends slip the wires through the hole. (Don't forget the gaskets.) I used some clear silicone to inshore water tightness. Once everything is back together use soap and water to clean the silicon off the finish. (Might be a good idea to test things before you put things back in place)

I hope this is enough info for you. The only trouble I had was DRILLING my new coach!!!! Horrifying experience for me. Nothing went wrong. But the mere thought of it....

I look forward to hearing how you make out. The source I gave you is only one of many. With it you now know what to look for. Shop around. You may find the LED cheaper.

Happy trails,

Rick Y

[Journey39n]

For my 39n Journey Express, starting with new in July 2010, the list, in no particular chronological order:

1.Trimmed the king-size bed platform down to queen, for more side room, sold the memory foam mattress, installed a 'Sleep-Better' mattress and air pump from the house (a sleep-number competitor, but better and cheaper)
2. Built new top extensions for the side nightstands to take up room after king mattress was gone.
3. Built in a sliding drawer, under bed, to hold wife's CPAP machine.
4. Replaced all lights with LED bulbs
5. Removed bunk beds, built in my computer office.
6. Removed wall mirror in bathroom, and mounted a medicine cabinet in its place.
7. Added cat doors to bathroom door and bathroom sink cabinet, installed a deep litter tray in that cabinet, easy to clean, and out of sight.
8. Removed KingDome, replaced with Wingard Traveller Dish.
9. Built a sliding platform for the satellite receiver, easy access to wires, and can slide out for cooling if hot sun is beating down on the front cap. (love that hopper)
10. Added a lock to keep full pantry from sliding open when driving around steep corners.
11. Added shelves inside the huge kitchen cabinets.
12. Added Carefree awnings to each window, really cuts the heat when in AZ.
13. Added mud flaps to each wheel to keep top and bottom clean.
14. Removed 2 12v batteries, replaced with 4 Costco Golf Cart 6v batteries.
15. Mounted a 'Flow-right' battery filling system.
16. Cut an access panel into the upper back side of the water compartment, to allow access to some pesky plumbing fittings that need tightening from time to time, to stop drips.
17. Mounted a Blue-Ox tow hitch and assembly to tow our Jeep.

And probably a few things I forgot about.

[zman-az]

I have the residential fridge and I like to boondock.

1. Added 685w of solar.
2. Replace remaining incandescent bulbs with led. Closets and there was a halogen bulb in the shower stall.
3. Disabled the illuminated switches on the pass side. To do this I found a circuit breaker under the bed that feed the illuminated switches. I had a empty hole in the panel and put in a toggle switch that I use to turn off the lights.
4. Bought a power switch panel and installed in the electronics cabinet I can now turn off all the gadgets 1by 1. I have DVD, DVR, winegard and the Hdmi multiplier. So not having items not on when not in use saves power. http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PDBC1...ESR8QFTG0SQ7MQ
5. Installed power switch for each tv/hdmi box device for all 3 tv's. No need to have these guys sucking juice when not in use.

I can run my fridge off of solar and inverter with no generator. Batteries get down to 12.4 in early morning and are 100% charged in evening. This was in near 100* temps and full sun on panels. Rv was hot inside so no way I would ever boondock in those temps. I expect winter temps will mean less fridge run time but will also have less solar charge time.

[dengraham]

zman-az,
Thanks for the list. I really like the toggle switch on the illuminated switches.
>> Dennis

[FiveJs]

Have a new to us 2004 Journey 34H, acquired with 6,800 miles and in fairly new condition except for AV systems. So far we have:
1. Replaced Magnadyne with Alpine/SeriusXM/HD/CD/steering wheel and hand held remote. Was happy that the SeriusXM antennae works great under the fiberglass roof mounted on a steel support above the windshield.
2. Extended the coach battery tray to accept a 4th Optima battery for Colorado boondocking.

[Jupiter]

Originally Posted by jerichorick

I did this modification to my coach. We love it. Here is one link I found for the LED:LIGHTING: nwrvsupply.com

The LED goes in the lower handle holder. Any water that may get in won't get to the LED. The top could act as a basin. A piece of aluminum foil goes in the top holder as a reflector. Both are placed as close to the acrylic as possible. Use some foam rubber material to hold these in place.

Remove the magazine rack next to the copilot seat. This gives you access to the porch light switch and needed wiring.

After removing the handle I drilled a hole in the area behind the lower handle just large enough to accommodate the wire connectors + wire. Make certain you protect the wires in the cabinet.

Use automotive wire taps to bring the switch wire and ground (new wire supplied by you) through the hole. Identifying these wires is not that bad if you have a bit of automotive wiring experience and a meter.

After the connections are made on both ends slip the wires through the hole. (Don't forget the gaskets.) I used some clear silicone to inshore water tightness. Once everything is back together use soap and water to clean the silicon off the finish. (Might be a good idea to test things before you put things back in place)

I hope this is enough info for you. The only trouble I had was DRILLING my new coach!!!! Horrifying experience for me. Nothing went wrong. But the mere thought of it....

I look forward to hearing how you make out. The source I gave you is only one of many. With it you now know what to look for. Shop around. You may find the LED cheaper.

Happy trails,

Rick Y

Hi Rick,

I finally got around to this upgrade and I used your post for inspiration and guidance. I bought the Pigtail & LED Light for Lucite Grab Handle from NWRVSUPPLY and I also bought a new "porch light" switch from Lichtsinn. I powered the switch separate from the porch light source so I can use them independently. The pics actually show the light a bit brighter and whiter than it actually is. It's actually a bit warmer in color and more of s soft glow which is all I wanted. My intent was not to illuminate the area, but to highlight the grab bar.
Thanks again for your fine post and inspiration

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by Jupiter

Hi Rick,

I finally got around to this upgrade and I used your post for inspiration and guidance. I bought the Pigtail & LED Light for Lucite Grab Handle from NWRVSUPPLY and I also bought a new "porch light" switch from Lichtsinn. I powered the switch separate from the porch light source so I can use them independently. The pics actually show the light a bit brighter and whiter than it actually is. It's actually a bit warmer in color and more of s soft glow which is all I wanted. My intent was not to illuminate the area, but to highlight the grab bar.
Thanks again for your fine post and inspiration

I love it! Very Well Done! Very nice to have the option to have some light outside and not keep the neighbors awake with the bright porch light. Thanks
Jesse

[Jupiter]

Thanks Jesse. My next upgrade will be an LED awning light install with the wire threaded through the edge seam as you've described on a previous post. Just been too darn cold and wet to tackle that job right now. I might try to git-R-done while snowbirding in the coming months I'll post when I do.

I get all my great upgrade and repair ideas from the "panel of experts" on this site!

cheers,
Joopy

[jerichorick]

I had dropped off this thread for a while. The upgrades are looking fine.

I don't think I mentioned early on the following. DW has a bunch of clothing in the closet. The bar started to sag. I moved it up a bit and added a center support from the pole to the wall. No more sagging.

DW insisted on adding a 2" memory foam topper to the bed. My side is near the hall so the bed, as hard as it was for me to "climb" into, got impossible for me. I built a platform at the height of the step under the bed vanity and out to just the edge of the heater vent in the bed base. This also gives me a little storage space under it.

I now have a new project I am conceiving. The dryer broke. I had to get it out. The only way I could do it was to remove the washer/dryer stack. I built a platform and slid the unit onto it with a bit of a struggle I must admit. I found out why it was so stubborn. There is a ~7x11" hole right under the left rear leg! No wonder I could never get the machine to stay level. But there is good news. Under the deck is a big empty hole. This is a great place for a drawer for the washing supplies. Before I close everything back up I will get some dimensions to plan from. I'll post the upgrade in the future.

About the dryer? Bad starter capacitor, broken lead to the dryer coil and a bad button thermostat. The "one shot" tripped. When the cap failed to turn the drum the one shot tripped, as it should. Won't take long to put things back together when the parts come in. I hope this will be Monday. I am replacing the washer hoses with the braided type while things are apart.

Happy trails all.

Rick Y

[Jupiter]

Never a dull moment, Rick. If we're not upgrading... we're repairing

Keep the ideas coming, and good idea on the braided hoses

cheers,
Joopy

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by Jupiter

Never a dull moment, Rick. If we're not upgrading... we're repairing

Keep the ideas coming, and good idea on the braided hoses

cheers,
Joopy

So true, Joopy. I replaced my last rig because it was always in the shop. Now, with this new and improved model it is still breaking down but I am able to fix the problems in the comfort of my own home.

Many of the repairs are from lack of attention by the previous owner. Yet it is true that too many have been "built" to happen.

While on this subject, does anyone know of a reasonable place to get the crown molding for my rig? Winnebago did a very poor job installing it and the first owner did not have it replaced. I can do nothing with it because it is splitting all over the place. Besides that the splices are butt joints.

One other addition to the rig is a new $99 compressor from Lowe's. The first one I bought, almost a year ago, was 125# rated and I thought it would be good for charging up the tires as well as my hobbies and work. Did great for everything else but the tires. Took 10 minutes to get 1# in. ing to say the least. This new compressor is a 150# unit and I charged ALL of the tires yesterday in about 20 minutes . Found one TST tpms sensor was bad. I could read the tire pressure through it but could not get air into the tie. (Oh yea, Joppy. Another project for me .) I have contacted the company and expect a positive response tomorrow.

More updates to follow .

Rick Y

[SCVJeff]

Originally Posted by Jupiter

Never a dull moment, Rick. If we're not upgrading... we're repairing

Keep the ideas coming, and good idea on the braided hoses

cheers,
Joopy

Like I said in another thread:
IF IT AIN'T BROKE, FIX IT TILL IT IS..

Keeps you in the game..

[jerichorick]

Hey Jeff. I just posted on the other thread. I am repeating here. Don't feel too special. It's not for your benefit.

I found a great place to put a drawer for the laundry stuff. This is what is behind the panel under the laundry. It is 16"x23" of empty space in a RV!

[SCVJeff]

Yeah it is.... Its this or yard work..

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by SCVJeff

Yeah it is.... Its this or yard work..

What's YARD WORK?