RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-17-2017, 07:28 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 129
Changing coolant

My Lab report from JG Lubricants came back terrible for my coolant so I want to get the old out and the new in. I am going to change to the OAT type coolant. I have been reading forever. One thing I was wondering is has anyone used this flush kit from Prestone that you cut into one of your heater hoses. My rig is a 2005 Winnebago with the 400 ISL. It is a 2005 but the manufacturing date is 2004. Seems like an easy way to do this, but haven't seen much info on doing it this way.
__________________

__________________
Will and Maria
2005 Winnebago Vectra 40AD
wstalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 12-17-2017, 08:43 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 3,027
You might be better off if you took the coach to a Cummins service center or an independent diesel mechanic experience in Cummins engines. This is not normally a do it yourself job.
__________________

__________________
Roger & Mary
2017 Winnebago Navion 24V
2014 Tiffin Phaeton 36GH (Sold)
luvlabs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2017, 06:47 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 129
I took it to Freightliner in Tucson and they are the reason I am doing this in the first place. No thank you.
__________________
Will and Maria
2005 Winnebago Vectra 40AD
wstalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2017, 02:35 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 635
Quote:
Originally Posted by luvlabs View Post
You might be better off if you took the coach to a Cummins service center or an independent diesel mechanic experience in Cummins engines. This is not normally a do it yourself job.
What? A coolant change doesn't require any specialized skill - unless using a wrench to remove a block drain plug, and opening a radiator drain cock challenges your abilities. In that case, you probably shouldn't try changing your own oil either.

To the OP - I have never been a fan of those plastic flush connectors. Unless you inspect and replace them frequently, they can lead to a nasty surprise failure after several heat/cool cycles. Doesn't your ISL have a coolant filter? If you are worried about particulate (corrosion) contamination, you can change the filter more frequently. I'd just drain and refill the system, and then re-test after a few thousand miles.

As far as OAT coolants, I like Zerex G-05 (Valvoline). It is an approved formula for Cummins Specification CES-14603. I can't remember off the top of my head if the ISL requires an SCA additive. If it does, then the Fleetguard product is the one I'd use.
DryCreek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2017, 06:42 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 129
Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by DryCreek View Post
What? A coolant change doesn't require any specialized skill - unless using a wrench to remove a block drain plug, and opening a radiator drain cock challenges your abilities. In that case, you probably shouldn't try changing your own oil either.

To the OP - I have never been a fan of those plastic flush connectors. Unless you inspect and replace them frequently, they can lead to a nasty surprise failure after several heat/cool cycles. Doesn't your ISL have a coolant filter? If you are worried about particulate (corrosion) contamination, you can change the filter more frequently. I'd just drain and refill the system, and then re-test after a few thousand miles.

As far as OAT coolants, I like Zerex G-05 (Valvoline). It is an approved formula for Cummins Specification CES-14603. I can't remember off the top of my head if the ISL requires an SCA additive. If it does, then the Fleetguard product is the one I'd use.
After reading these posts I think I am going to stay away from the flush kit. I also am changing my surge tank to a metal one. Theoretically my ISL has a filter and I have bought a new one without the SCA added. Not having a lot of time to do this right now. Fortunately we still have more warm days in winter usually. I am trying to do most of my own work, been a shade tree mechanic forever, plus I don't trust many places anymore.
__________________
Will and Maria
2005 Winnebago Vectra 40AD
wstalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 07:53 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
SuperGewl's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,990
There is nothing wrong wit doing it yourself; however I hope you have a very very very large tank to put the waste coolant into. While yo are at it you may want to think about the Radiator hoses also, have they ever been changed? Remember, the cost of the fluid is very high when using that amount and having to replace it again in a few months due to a hose blowing out would just piss me off, oh yeah when was the last time you looked at the water pump also. This is a good time to have all of that done, along with the belts.
Starting to sound like a job for a qualified, certified mechanic is his shop
You may want to rethink this one
__________________
Retired Navy Submariner
2014 Itasca Sunstar 35F; 5 Star tuned; 2014 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk
SuperGewl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 11:14 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Jim_HiTek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 1,864
Yeah, finding some way to collect and dispose of the waste coolant seems to be a problem. At least it was for this DIY'er.

The hoses, like many diesel engine parts, seemed to be long life on my Cummins. Was worried about it of course, so had shops check them at 85, 95, & 105 thousand miles and they were always good. Never replaced them because the shops said it wasn't necessary.

Same goes for the water pump. They'd check it for bearing looseness and slop, but it was always good. And I'd get that knowing smirk when I'd ask them if it should be replaced anyway.

So the only thing I ever did was wash the radiator, and follow the engine coolant flushing procedure that was in the operators guide that came with the RV. Only time I did it was at around 94,000 miles. And the Cummins procedure didn't require or suggest any back flushing devices. Just a water hose and patience as the procedure wanted 3 or 4 flushes with clean water (no irrigation water) with warming up the engine between.

After 184,000 when I sold it, still no leaks, no need for a new pump, idler, or hoses. Did have to replace the serpentine belt though. Once.

Had other engine issues, but never anything wrong with the engine cooling system. However...I never had the coolant tested.
__________________
'02 Winnebago Journey DL, DSDP, 36' of fun.

Visit my RV Travel & Repair Blog at : http://chaos.goblinbox.com
Jim_HiTek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 11:54 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Country Coach Owners Club
Winnebago Owners Club
Solo Rvers Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 33,123
I installed one of the cheap kits when I changed coolant on my '02 DSDP. Really helped to drain the lines to the dash. No problems with it later and was still holding tight when we traded the rig.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
Mr_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 11:55 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Country Coach Owners Club
Winnebago Owners Club
Solo Rvers Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 33,123
Quote:
Originally Posted by luvlabs View Post
You might be better off if you took the coach to a Cummins service center or an independent diesel mechanic experience in Cummins engines. This is not normally a do it yourself job.
Actually it is a do it yourself job for almost any "shade tree mechanic" like me.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
Mr_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 12:01 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Country Coach Owners Club
Winnebago Owners Club
Solo Rvers Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 33,123
Quote:
Originally Posted by DryCreek View Post
What? A coolant change doesn't require any specialized skill - unless using a wrench to remove a block drain plug, and opening a radiator drain cock challenges your abilities. In that case, you probably shouldn't try changing your own oil either.

To the OP - I have never been a fan of those plastic flush connectors. Unless you inspect and replace them frequently, they can lead to a nasty surprise failure after several heat/cool cycles. Doesn't your ISL have a coolant filter? If you are worried about particulate (corrosion) contamination, you can change the filter more frequently. I'd just drain and refill the system, and then re-test after a few thousand miles.

As far as OAT coolants, I like Zerex G-05 (Valvoline). It is an approved formula for Cummins Specification CES-14603. I can't remember off the top of my head if the ISL requires an SCA additive. If it does, then the Fleetguard product is the one I'd use.
Most ISL's don't have a coolant filter.
OAT coolants do not need any SCA additives (like DCA). Some do need an extender additive after 3 to 5 years. In fact adding an SCA to an OAT coolant could require a drain and cleaning of the entire system.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
Mr_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2017, 06:26 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 635
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Most ISL's don't have a coolant filter.
OAT coolants do not need any SCA additives (like DCA). Some do need an extender additive after 3 to 5 years. In fact adding an SCA to an OAT coolant could require a drain and cleaning of the entire system.
True, on the ISL-9, the coolant filter (particulate) was an option. Most commercial applications "checked that box". As far as adding SCA's, an OAT compatible one shouldn't require a complete change. There is one offered by Cummins Filtration (Fleetguard) that just reinforces the additive package at extended intervals.
DryCreek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2017, 06:35 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
CountryB's Avatar


 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 2,348
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek View Post
Yeah, finding some way to collect and dispose of the waste coolant seems to be a problem. At least it was for this DIY'er.

Drain the coolant into one of those plastic "storage totes". At least a 20 gallon size (make sure it is not too tall as not fit under the drain petcock). Some like to fit a HD garbage bag into the tote to make cleanup easier (this helps with oil but not necessary with coolant. IMO).

After you finish draining and do the final refill step, then use a hand pump (or coffee cans or whatever) to transfer the old coolant into the gallon jugs the new coolant came in. Any county landfill/garbage collection center will take it. Some auto parts stores will take it.
__________________
- Mike
2005 Beaver Patriot-Thunder, 42ft, Tag, 525HP Cat C13, Allison 4000, 2014 V-Star 1300 Deluxe on a HydraLift
CountryB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2017, 06:52 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Old Scout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,615
....changing coolant in most vehicles is pretty simple--done it for years. Challenge with DIY is coolant and flush disposal. Most businesses don't take used coolant--some counties do but like once or twice a year. The idea of carrying 10-12 gals of use coolant around for disposal plus flush water doesn't sound like fun. Not sure if OATs get you much advantage either--DCA-based coolants will last a long time in our RV applications. Again, I am a DIY kind of guy--I like doing stuff for fun--changing coolant doesn't sound like much fun....just saying
__________________
Old Scout
2003 40' MDTS
Garden Ridge, Texas
Old Scout is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2017, 07:39 AM   #14
TAN
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Coaldale, AB
Posts: 278
I was going to have the antifreeze changed in the Motor Home but decided to have the car done first. I took it to a qualified shop and I am on my third radiator in two months. I think I am not going to change antifreeze in my motor home. The shop can not find a reason why the radiators keep blowing out. Makes me nervous to do motor home.
__________________

__________________
05 Itasca Sunova 29R
TAN is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
changing coolant BEBOP Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 1 12-25-2010 04:56 PM
Changing Coolant Richardrky Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 3 11-22-2010 04:31 PM
Changing Coolant in Generac Generator???? Ragman MH-General Discussions & Problems 3 06-17-2008 03:30 AM
Replace thermostat when changing coolant? Paul and Sue Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 2 02-16-2008 11:06 AM
changing coolant Pat Z Spartan Motorhome Chassis Forum 2 11-07-2007 01:29 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.