Converter Location ?

[J Stemler]

I have a 1999 Adventurer 35C.....Where is the converter located...I thought it was below the fridge..I pulled the electrical panel loose, with all the circuit breakers and looked behind that..nothing..I can hear the cooling fan run in that area...I just can;t locate the converter

[J Stemler]

I have a 1999 Adventurer 35C.....Where is the converter located...I thought it was below the fridge..I pulled the electrical panel loose, with all the circuit breakers and looked behind that..nothing..I can hear the cooling fan run in that area...I just can;t locate the converter

[Trek-Cyclist]

If it's like mine, it's under the oven behind the drawer..Must be under there somewhere!
When you do find it it might be good to clean the dust out... Mine was a little dusty used the vacuum brush to clean the fan and cage...
Turn the power off first in case the fan comes on! LOL

[FrontRangeRVer]

Turn all your 12 volt accessories on, and you will hear the fan when your converter gets hot.

Mine is behind the drawer under the fridge.

[Tom N]

I looked at the online diagram for the 1999 35C.

Looks like your converter is to the left of you fridge looking from the inside of the coach.

I'll guess you may have to access it from your basement compartment. From the outside look in the compartment to the right of the fridge. There may be a removable panel here. My 38R is set up like this.

-Tom

[J Stemler]

Thanks to all....found it....took the drawer out below the range oven...there it was...Now the problem is how to get it out...very little room to work...looks like it was installed before cabnets and stove was installed...can not even see the screws holding it in place...this is all premlin work...not even sure I'll be replacing it...I just like the idea of the faster recharge on the newer converters,,,and the three stage operation...I maintain my batteries...but I still get a lot of build up, espically on the hold down bolts and bracket...I'm thinking its because everytime I unplug and plug back in, it goes into that 13.8v cycle for 14 hours. Any thoughts on this ???

[Bob/Becky D - VA]

J:

Might want to check out the following link for a good battery tutorial. Your build-up is probably caused by outgassing.

I switched to AGM batteries ($$$$s) and upgraded my converter/charger to a microprossessor controlled 3 stage system that included a battery temp sensor so that the batteries are charged correctly relevant to ambient air temps.

Wasn't cheap, but should eliminated problems related to battery maintenance, improper charging, and the typical 3=>4 year battery replacements.

http://www.amsolar.com/batteries.html
Good luck - Bob D

[Trek-Cyclist]

I have the stock charger/converter without problems...

Before you go and spend the big $$$$ make sure all the positives and ground wires are clean and tight...on on the Converter/charger and the battery sides..
When I took delivery of our coach I took all the negative and positive wires off and made sure they were clean, tight and used dilectric grease on all..
Never had a problem with buildup on any batteries, connectors or hold-downs and we're full-time RV'ers. Just replaced the stock batteries last year because one coach batt had a low cell and wouldn't hold a charge..

[Pubtym]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Ed/Full-time:
I have the stock charger/converter without problems...

Before you go and spend the big $$$$ make sure all the positives and ground wires are clean and tight...on on the Converter/charger and the battery sides..
When I took delivery of our coach I took all the negative and positive wires off and made sure they were clean, tight and used dilectric grease on all..
Never had a problem with buildup on any batteries, connectors or hold-downs and we're full-time RV'ers. Just replaced the stock batteries last year because one coach batt had a low cell and wouldn't hold a charge.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ed,

Your post here...about checking the security of the positive and negative wires to the converter terminals...saved my bacon BIG TIME. I decided to check mine as per your post. To my surprise...the negative wire was NOT secured with the terminal friction screw/fastener. My slight tug on that wire had it come out like butter on the wire!!! I pulled out the converter and resecured tightly the wires and their friction screw fasteners. Thanks! I was just about to begin a three week trip in the coach and I did NOT need a converter problem.

[FrontRangeRVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by J Stemler:
Thanks to all....found it....took the drawer out below the range oven...there it was...Now the problem is how to get it out...very little room to work...looks like it was installed before cabnets and stove was installed...can not even see the screws holding it in place...this is all premlin work...not even sure I'll be replacing it...I just like the idea of the faster recharge on the newer converters,,,and the three stage operation...I maintain my batteries...but I still get a lot of build up, espically on the hold down bolts and bracket...I'm thinking its because everytime I unplug and plug back in, it goes into that 13.8v cycle for 14 hours. Any thoughts on this ??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I didn't have alot of room to work with either, as when I pulled out the drawer, I also had to remove the drawer wood brace and reach in and feel where they screwed the converter to the floor....Once I got the screws out...wala...very easy replacement.

After I replaced my converter, you can manually change the output of your battery charging (to trickle if wanted)....and you could never do that with the Parallax converter.

This is from the Progressive Dynamics Website:

The new PD9200 Series RV Converter/Chargers have our patented Charge Wizard built-in to provide you with the most advanced RV battery charging system on the market today. The Charge Wizard is a micro-processor controller that constantly monitors your RV battery voltage and then automatically determines which one of four modes of operation is best suited to recharge or maintain optimum battery condition. The four modes are BOOST, NORMAL, STORAGE and DESULFATION. The Converter Status Remote Pendant will show you which mode the converter is operating in.

The Indicator Light on the Converter Status Remote Pendant will display the mode of operation as follows:

Light "ON"� all of the time – Indicates the unit is in the BOOST MODE and the converter output voltage is 14.4-volts and is in the process of recharging the battery up to 90% of full charge as fast as possible. This mode is usually automatically selected after dry camping

Light Blinks Rapidly (every 2-3 seconds) – Indicates the unit is in the NORMAL MODE and the converter output voltage is 13.7-volts. In this mode, the converter is safely completing the charge of the RV battery.

Light Blinks Slowly (every 5-6 seconds) – Indicates the unit is in the Storage Mode and the converter output voltage has been lowered to 13.2-volts. In this mode the RV battery is fully charged and the converter is maintaining the charge, without causing gassing or water loss.

The Manual Switch...

The Manual Switch allows the operator to check to see if the Charge Wizard is operating properly as follows:

Press and hold the Manual Switch and shortly the Indicator Light will remain "ON"� all of the time, indicating the unit went into the BOOST MODE. Continue to hold the switch and shortly the Indicator Light will start blinking rapidly (every 2-3 seconds). This indicates the unit went into the NORMAL MODE. Continue to hold the switch and the unit will go into the STORAGE MODE, and the Indicator Light will start blinking slowly (every 5-6 seconds). Once the switch button is released, the Charge Wizard will again read the RV battery voltage, and after some period of time, automatically select the proper mode of operation.

The Desulfation Mode

The DESULFATION MODE is only active when the Charge Wizard is in the STORAGE MODE. During this mode a timer in the micro-processor automatically switches the Charge Wizard to the BOOST MODE for 15-minutes every 21-hours. This higher voltage causes some slight gassing, and mixes up the battery electrolyte to prevent battery stratification, and the resulting sulfation of the plates, which is the leading cause of loss of battery power.

Note: When no 120 VAC power is applied to the RV through the Shore Power Cord, or Generator, the Indicator Light will remain "ON" at all times. This indicates that the Charge Wizard is monitoring the battery voltage.

[Trek-Cyclist]

Pubtym,
Great! Have a safe trip.
Enjoy the ride

[Pubtym]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Ed/Full-time:
Pubtym,
Great! Have a safe trip.
Enjoy the ride </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Ed,

Thanks for your posts helping to keep this thread clear, concise, fair, balanced, relative...and open minded.

Pubtym