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Old 07-16-2017, 07:18 AM   #1
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Dash a/c

We have a 2014 forza 38r. The dash air only works on high speed. None of the breakers appear tripped. The schematic inside the fuse box is confusing and can't tell which one it might be. Anyone have this problem and how was it resolved.
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Old 07-16-2017, 07:25 AM   #2
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This is not specific to Forza or Winnebago. The high-speed works because the current bypasses the resistor and goes straight to the fan motor. The most common reason for the lower fan speeds not working is a failed resistor or associated wiring.
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Old 07-16-2017, 07:28 AM   #3
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So is a resistor something we can get to and replace ourselves. I'm assuming its location is somewhere under the dash.
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Old 07-16-2017, 07:33 AM   #4
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The resistor is often located inside the distribution box, where it can be cooled by the airflow. You'll probably have a better shot at it from the front generator bay. Before you dig, though, I would pull the fan switch from the dash. Inspect and test continuity for each setting. Winnebago has outstanding documentation of all systems in their products. They will send you diagrams and maybe even troubleshooting procedures before you do any unnecessary disassembly.
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Old 07-16-2017, 05:37 PM   #5
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Just fixed this problem on our 2006 Sightseer. You should be able to determine which supplier made your dash HVAC through contacting Winnebago Owner Services. There is a web page with cross references as to which of their two suppliers made your dash AC unit. It would be either Specific Climate Systems (SCS) or Evans Tempcon.

Ours was made by SCS - and the fan resistor was actually a Ford model. We were able to find one at O'Reilly Auto Parts for under $20 - with a lifetime warranty. I had to make some minor fitment adjustments for the male plug to work, but it wasn't too difficult of a task. Don't forget to have some RTV ready when you replace the resistor module - you'll need it for the edges.

Part number was Borg-Warner RU1138

ETA - SCS is now Victory Climate Systems.
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Old 07-20-2017, 01:44 PM   #6
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Another Dash A/C Question

My unit is not experiencing the resistor problem for the fan, but another issue entirely. My coach, 2016 Forza, has a vacuum pump mounted out under the front which runs when vacuum is needed to move the interior dash A/C vent doors, to change the air flow from Max A/C to Normal, to Vent, to Floor, etc.

When I turn the selector to MAX from any other setting, you can hear the vacuum pump turn on, and it will stay on as long as MAX is selected. Just as soon as it is turned to Normal, or the other heat or A/C settings, it will turn off the vacuum pump. Also, when you turn the system to OFF, it will cause the vacuum pump to run and run, and it will stay on.

I am thinking the door that closes off the outside air vent which is recirculating the air through the evap core for MAX A/C is the same one that closes when the system is turned to OFF. There must be something wrong with that particular diaphragm type door motor or the vacuum line to it, i.e. there's a vacuum leak somewhere. I looked at the lines on the back of the control panel, and they did not appear to have any problems such as a nick or cut or improper installation.

Anyone else have this issue? I'm getting tired of listening to that vacuum pump run and run and run..... I know it will wear it out, if it hasn't already, or it is just about to fail, because of this problem.

Am I on the right track? If so, who is responsible for the service on this dash A/C? CW of Roanoke said Freightliner is the one who services that, and Freightliner in Gaffney, SC said that is a Winnebago installed item, thus they are responsible. I'm stuck in the middle....

What are your thoughts?
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Old 07-24-2017, 11:55 AM   #7
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Check Your vacuum tube connections. Mine have come loose on occasion
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTobey View Post
My unit is not experiencing the resistor problem for the fan, but another issue entirely. My coach, 2016 Forza, has a vacuum pump mounted out under the front which runs when vacuum is needed to move the interior dash A/C vent doors, to change the air flow from Max A/C to Normal, to Vent, to Floor, etc.

When I turn the selector to MAX from any other setting, you can hear the vacuum pump turn on, and it will stay on as long as MAX is selected. Just as soon as it is turned to Normal, or the other heat or A/C settings, it will turn off the vacuum pump. Also, when you turn the system to OFF, it will cause the vacuum pump to run and run, and it will stay on.

I am thinking the door that closes off the outside air vent which is recirculating the air through the evap core for MAX A/C is the same one that closes when the system is turned to OFF. There must be something wrong with that particular diaphragm type door motor or the vacuum line to it, i.e. there's a vacuum leak somewhere. I looked at the lines on the back of the control panel, and they did not appear to have any problems such as a nick or cut or improper installation.

Anyone else have this issue? I'm getting tired of listening to that vacuum pump run and run and run..... I know it will wear it out, if it hasn't already, or it is just about to fail, because of this problem.

Am I on the right track? If so, who is responsible for the service on this dash A/C? CW of Roanoke said Freightliner is the one who services that, and Freightliner in Gaffney, SC said that is a Winnebago installed item, thus they are responsible. I'm stuck in the middle....

What are your thoughts?
Pretty much all of the Air Handling System, including Air Directing Doors, Heater Core, and Cooling Evaporator is Winnebago or Winnebago Sub-contractor designed and built. Chassis items are the AC Compressor and Lines, Heater Lines.

I have not seen any documents showing where and how many doors there are and the matrix of how vacuum is supplied and when to which motors in the various dash HVAC switch positions. I believe there is a vacuum tank with a check valve so that vacuum is not supposed to bleed off when engine is shut off.

I suggest you contact Winnebago Customer Service and see if there is any documentation you can get your hands on. Please post to the thread what you find out.
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Old 07-24-2017, 05:09 PM   #9
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GTobey: I don't know how many changes that Evans Tempcon has made to their control systems and vacuum actuators over the years; but I'll include a picture of the recirculating door actuator and the vacuum diagram ( such as it is ) . BTW , the foil tape in the picture is to TRY and keep dust and cold air entering the dash & coach when I'm south during the winter, there will be a foam covered door visible if the tape isn't there.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:46 PM   #10
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Found the diagram

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
GTobey: I don't know how many changes that Evans Tempcon has made to their control systems and vacuum actuators over the years; but I'll include a picture of the recirculating door actuator and the vacuum diagram ( such as it is ) . BTW , the foil tape in the picture is to TRY and keep dust and cold air entering the dash & coach when I'm south during the winter, there will be a foam covered door visible if the tape isn't there.
Thanks so much!!! I went to the Winnebago Industries website, chose the Class A Diesel, chose my Forza selection, then under the Resources tab on the header, chose Product Information. I used the drop down boxes and selected my year and model, then under manuals and diagrams, selected Service Tips. Under the 2016 header, there is the link for 2016-01 Evans Tempcon Auto Air Conditioning.

I read the information provided, and visited the website for Evans Tempcon at www.evanstempcon.com/tsg_hvac.php . I selected cable and electric rotary control systems, and found the vacuum logic diagrams. Here's a copy of the diagram attached. What you folks thought is probably what I will find. I will have to trace the blue tubing from the back of the control to the air motor and see if it is still connected. I appreciate everyone guiding me on this. As soon as I get my coach back from CW of Roanoke where they are performing the last few things under warranty before it runs out, I will start the diagnosis and follow up here with my findings. Thanks every so much!!!
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Old 07-25-2017, 11:33 PM   #11
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Thank you so much for this thread. I am experiencing a similar issue with my dash air on my 2000 ultimate advantage, freightliner chassis, Caterpillar engine. The vacuum pump is running constantly. If I turn on the dash blower on any speed and keep it on vent, it will blow endlessly. If I turn the knob to a/c it then trips the 25 amp circuit breaker for the dash fan. I have had an issue of the condenser fans not running, just before this trip. I found it low on R134A and it worked after putting in a couple of pounds of refrigerant. Sometime after putting in the second can this issue with the vacuum pump and the blowing circuit breaker started. I will be looking for that unit with the multiple color vacuum hoses tomorrow.

Thanks, Karl
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Old 07-27-2017, 10:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Evans View Post
Thank you so much for this thread. I am experiencing a similar issue with my dash air on my 2000 ultimate advantage, freightliner chassis, Caterpillar engine. The vacuum pump is running constantly. If I turn on the dash blower on any speed and keep it on vent, it will blow endlessly. If I turn the knob to a/c it then trips the 25 amp circuit breaker for the dash fan. I have had an issue of the condenser fans not running, just before this trip. I found it low on R134A and it worked after putting in a couple of pounds of refrigerant. Sometime after putting in the second can this issue with the vacuum pump and the blowing circuit breaker started. I will be looking for that unit with the multiple color vacuum hoses tomorrow.

Thanks, Karl
You're welcome, man! That's how we find out about these issues, and can fix many things! I'm so glad for this info, and I can't wait to stop that stupid pump and shut off the outside air to help get colder dash A/C which the wife wants!
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Old 07-27-2017, 04:23 PM   #13
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Karl ; when you switch to A/C from vent , you are introducing two more loads to the circuit , the condenser electric fan and the compressor electromagnetic clutch . So problems with either one could result in the circuit breaker tripping.
Disconnect them one at a time to see which one's your issue.
If the problem started right when you were adding R-134A you need to access the compressor and see if it can be turned over by hand ; engine off ; the portion of the compressor drive outside of the belt groves with three rivets should turn fairly freely , if you added without pressure gauges you may have locked up the compressor.
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Old 07-30-2017, 01:11 PM   #14
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Thanks Skip.
The tripping circuit breaker didn't start as I was adding, but later that day. I only had the low side pressure gauge to go by. It read like 30psi. Like those cans you buy. I got under there yesterday and turned the compressor over by hand. It turned freely. Tomorrow I am going to stop by a friends house. He has a pretty well equipped shop. My hi and low gauges are at home, so I'm hoping can borrow some if he has them. I doubt if the condenser fans have ever been lubricated. I made up test leads and ran them off a battery when I was still at home. They ran fine, no noise other than normal fan noise. That is when I found the pressure switch and found I had my charge leak off. Do you have an estimate of what pressure to expect? Hi and low side? Ambient temperature will probably be in the 90's here in Sandpoint, Id.

Thanks, Karl
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