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08-30-2006, 01:49 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 235
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I have a 2001 Itasca SunRise 30w. The furnace is located in the back. I am going to replace the limit switch on my furnace and wanted to know if anyone knew if I can do it with out removing the furnace? Or do I have to remove the furnace to replace the switch?
thanks
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rvcarpenter
Seattle, WA
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08-30-2006, 01:49 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 235
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I have a 2001 Itasca SunRise 30w. The furnace is located in the back. I am going to replace the limit switch on my furnace and wanted to know if anyone knew if I can do it with out removing the furnace? Or do I have to remove the furnace to replace the switch?
thanks
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rvcarpenter
Seattle, WA
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08-30-2006, 03:19 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Full Timer - Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 1,930
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If it's a Surburban I think you have to remove it. If so the good news is it's really easy to remove - unless they have changed them a lot in the last few years.
When I removed my 1996 model year one, after you remove the cover panel which involved removing 4 screws, there was a screw (in the lower middle front as I remember) that was labeled "Remove for Service". If you take that out and then disconnect the propane connection and an electrical connector, the furnace slides right out.
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Clay WA5NMR - Fulltiming- 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N Workhorse chassis. Honda Accord toad.
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08-30-2006, 03:25 PM
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#4
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Community Moderator
Nor'easters Club Newmar Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Salisbury,Ma. 01952
Posts: 13,593
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Do you have a owners instruction sheet for your furnace if when you take off front panel and the print shows it up front you maybe able to change it. My furnace I can access both sides and into heat chamber its tight but can reach switch. Not sure how you might get to back side of your furnace. Under the bed maybe.
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08-31-2006, 05:46 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 235
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It is a Surburban furance, SF35 I think. and I know that the limit switch is on the back. The trickie thing is that the furance is installed under the floor under the bed. Now there is a return air vent that leads down to the furnace through the bed pedistal, but I'm not sure if I can get at the back side of the furnace that way.
If I do have to take it out where are the propane connections and the eletric connection to undo? will I see them when I take the cover off?
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rvcarpenter
Seattle, WA
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08-31-2006, 10:22 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Full Timer - Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 1,930
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">If I do have to take it out where are the propane connections and the eletric connection to undo? will I see them when I take the cover off? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Mine was on an outside wall and that's how it came out. The outside cover came off and you could see the stuff I was talking about.
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Clay WA5NMR - Fulltiming- 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N Workhorse chassis. Honda Accord toad.
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08-31-2006, 10:46 AM
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#7
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Community Moderator
Nor'easters Club Newmar Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Salisbury,Ma. 01952
Posts: 13,593
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Is your return air vent removeable under your bed? If it is, try to see the switch and if you can access hope your a small fellow.
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08-31-2006, 11:39 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 235
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007,
I was planning to take apart my return air vent under the bed first to see if I can get at it that way. I'm hoping I can see it there. If not guess I'll have to remove it.
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rvcarpenter
Seattle, WA
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08-31-2006, 01:44 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 89
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Save yourself some hassle and just take the furnace out through the cover on the outside. Turn off propane valve at tank, burn of residual LP at stove, remove line from furnace, remove 2 screws that hold furncace from sliding out, and disconnect power plug and then pull. Not more than 10 min work.
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09-01-2006, 06:31 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 235
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Zertrider,
what about duct connection won't they be a pain to get back on when you put it back in.
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rvcarpenter
Seattle, WA
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09-01-2006, 07:21 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Full Timer - Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 1,930
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Nope, that's the beauty of the design. All the ducts are left connnected to the furnace shell that's left behind.
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Clay WA5NMR - Fulltiming- 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N Workhorse chassis. Honda Accord toad.
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09-02-2006, 05:46 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 89
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No actual connection, the furnace pushes up against a gasket at the rear, thats the reason for the 2 screws that hold it from sliding. They hold it back against the duct.
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09-02-2006, 11:30 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: south NJ
Posts: 412
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Hey, that sounds like a great design!
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2001 32-V Suncrusier,Ford V-10, 310 HP, 4 Koni FSD's, KVH Tracvision,trickle charge, awning travel lock, 1 dinning room slide; no roof leaks, 03malibu toad sometimes, Blackhawk all terrain towbar, Roadmaster brake Pro,1 wife, life is good!
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09-04-2006, 06:36 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 235
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Ok now I understand the desgin, I thought I would have to some how reach in there and disconnect the ducts. but now that I know I just have to slide it in and out I will probally just take it out and give it a good cleaning while I'm at it.
Thanks for the infor.
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rvcarpenter
Seattle, WA
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