Door Lock Solenoid Going Crazy!!!

[vicsryd]

This afternoon I unlocked the coach from the outside using the RKE fob. All was good. Go inside and shut the door behind me. All still good. Manually lock the door from the inside and a few seconds later the solenoid starts going nuts trying to unlock the door. It like spasms and jiggles the lever but isn't able to quite go fully unlocked. Opened door to break electrical contacts. Close door and use RKE to lock the door and same thing happens. Close door and do nothing and all is good.

Never heard of or see anything like this before. Usually these RKE systems and/or the solenoids just die.

So I'm thinking the "security system"� that manages RKE has lost its mind. I reset chassis electrical systems by disconnecting the chassis battery for 1 minute (the hard way, my coach does not have the quick disconnect that came later in 2005). When I repeated previous sequences I got the same results.

For the moment I've put electrical tape over the contacts in the door frame to disable the solenoid altogether and now manually locking/unlocking door.

My question to my peers is have you seen something like this before? Is it the "security system"� box going over the deep end or is it possible it's the solenoid itself has gone bad? The original solenoid turned up DOA during delivery inspection and was replaced at that time.

I'd like to have some idea where I'm going with this and if I need to tear into the door or dash.

[vicsryd]

This afternoon I unlocked the coach from the outside using the RKE fob. All was good. Go inside and shut the door behind me. All still good. Manually lock the door from the inside and a few seconds later the solenoid starts going nuts trying to unlock the door. It like spasms and jiggles the lever but isn't able to quite go fully unlocked. Opened door to break electrical contacts. Close door and use RKE to lock the door and same thing happens. Close door and do nothing and all is good.

Never heard of or see anything like this before. Usually these RKE systems and/or the solenoids just die.

So I'm thinking the "security system"� that manages RKE has lost its mind. I reset chassis electrical systems by disconnecting the chassis battery for 1 minute (the hard way, my coach does not have the quick disconnect that came later in 2005). When I repeated previous sequences I got the same results.

For the moment I've put electrical tape over the contacts in the door frame to disable the solenoid altogether and now manually locking/unlocking door.

My question to my peers is have you seen something like this before? Is it the "security system"� box going over the deep end or is it possible it's the solenoid itself has gone bad? The original solenoid turned up DOA during delivery inspection and was replaced at that time.

I'd like to have some idea where I'm going with this and if I need to tear into the door or dash.

[jimandsue60]

Were the contacts that you taped over clean and shiny, if not try to clean them with scothbrite.

Could one of the remotes be stuck in a drawer with one of the buttons being pushed?

The door solonoid could have corrosion on the connection. To see that, the plastic door panel and some of the molding around the door handle could be removed to inspect the solonoid (pretty easy).

Or your door remote controller could have failed.

Jim

PS, was your battery voltage in the normal range?

[SCVJeff]

I'd go straight to the control (under dash cover, left side) and listen for the lock relay, meter, or both. I don't remember if there's an LED on the box. I guess it's also possible your keyfob is stuck on.

[John_Canfield]

Grab your meter and your wiring diagram. Easiest place to start would be to find which two door contact buttons are responsible for lock solenoid operation and see if you are getting voltage on the fixed (non-door) side of the contact assembly.

If you are, then I'd start at the controller end and keep probing to see where you have/don't have intermittent solenoid voltage. Work your way to the door contacts.

Jeff's suggestions are solid as well.

[vicsryd]

Got up really early this morning and made the next round of tests.

Only one remote was within range of the coach. Drove that one 1000 feet away left in the car and went back and did manual tests with the same results. So it's not the RKE.

RKE commanded lock/unlock works fully/correctly otherwise.

Contacts were clean but not shiny. Buffed them up but it made no difference.

Took dash cover off. The "box"� is only clicking on command of the RKE for both the main and cargo doors for both open and closed as it should. It is not making any sounds when the solenoid goes nuts.

Took door panel off. Clean as a whistle in there with no signs of moisture. Took wire connections off and there is no signs of corrosion.

One new piece of information is if you lock the door manually with the door open and then close the door the solenoid unlocks the door fully. About 3 seconds later the solenoid clicks off. Then if you lock the door again it starts going nuts.

Is the behavior of the door unlocking itself a "feature"� so you don't lock yourself out? I don't recall ever trying this out before nor is there any literature on it.

I will be reviewing the wiring diagrams later today and start looking in that direction.

[Moder2]

When we first bought our coach, we had a similar problem, However it was the remote battery being "Low". It took me weeks to figure it out, but in your case if the remote isn't near, I would think it is the control box...

John

[vicsryd]

In my case the voltages are good. House 12.7 (aux batt off) and chassis 12.5 (no disconnect) when stored for a week without charging source.

After looking at the diagrams my suspcicion it's one of the relays or the wiring between the relays and the door. I'll should have this examined by the end of today.

Key thing I need answered is whether the door unlocking automatically if locked while open and then shut is the correct behavior or not.

[vicsryd]

Okay, called up a buddy with a '05 Journey and had him test to see if his door would unlock automatically if locked with the door open and then closed. No it does not. So this in it's own right is a symptom of the problem.

[DenShaw]

We experienced a similar erratic condition on our new 05 Journey. The doors would look or unlock intermittently and chatter sometimes. I started to think about all the electronics associated with door security and for some unknown reason I removed a battery from one of the Keyfobs and the problem went away. It took it apart but could not find anything broken, cracked bad connections etc. We haven't had a problem since the Keyfob was replaced.

[vicsryd]

I think I found the problem. Followed the wiring diagrams and found the connector downstream of the relays where the WM/WL wires and the contact switch plugs come together. The connector is located behind the far right, passenger side of the dash. Not an easy place to get to. The connector was apparently never plugged in fully to engage the lock and had worked itself just a little loose. Current reading on my digital voltmeter made it look okay. This is a time when a analog voltmeter would have helped.

So far (8 hours) all is normal.

Separately, while I had the door panel off I put dielectric grease on the solenoid wire connectors and the door jamb contact switch to help ward off any corrosion problems as you all have said has been seen before.

Thanks to all for listening and your suggestions. It sped things up considerably for me.

[SCVJeff]

That's the cavity where the only access is sitting upright on the ground and barely able to get ones arm(s) up? I installed a forced step retract swx and that was the only place I could find what I was looking for. I imagine it'll be equally as fun if I ever need to get up into the rear cavity where the HVAC duct is.