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Electric system monitor panel shows 30 amp when hooked up to 50 amp
Old 03-03-2010, 11:13 AM   #1
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We've owned our 03 Suncuriser 38G for about 9 months. Over that time we've always been hooked up to 50 amp outlets. Through out that time the A/C electric monitor panel has indicated 50 amp service. If we were running on generator the monitor indicated that too.

The other day I disconnected from the power pole (50 amp service) so I could excersize the generator. After shutting down the generator reconnected to the 50 amp receptical. Later I walked past the monitor and noticed it indicated we were connected to 30 amp service and showed the amperage load on the system.

I unhooked and reconnected the shore line several times and recycled the circuit breaker too. Still the monitor indicated 30 amp.

Thinking the problem was in the power box I checked the voltage with a DVM, I got a reading of 240 volts between the main pins.

I then took the cover off the camper breaker panel and read 240 volts between the 50 amp breakers. I recycled the breakers several times but still the monitor panel incates that we are connected to 30 amp service.

If I push the button next to the amp meter I can cycle between 20 and 30 amps but not 50 amps. I ran the generator again while working on this problem and the monitor panel indicated that the generator was supplying power to the camper. So every indication works excep for 50 amp.

Any thoughts of how to fix this or what I can do to furthur troubleshoot this?
Thanks for your help, Ken.

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Old 03-03-2010, 11:55 AM   #2
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The monitor panel doesn't indicate 50A when connected to 50A shore power, as there is no load-shedding needed, or done. AFAIK, all Winnebago monitor panels have always been this way. Your 50A indicator shouldnot be lit when on 50A shorepower, or when running your 7500 watt gen, (if that's what you have).

That being said, it also should not indicate 30A when on 50. If it does, the monitor is not seeing one leg of the service, although, as you said, it is present at the power pedestal. So that could be a bad automatic transfer switch, or a problem in the monitor panel circuit. Do you have all appliances working normally (micro, water heater, both compressors of the A/C? If one of the relay contacts in the transfer switch is not making good contact, you would lose whatever appliances are on that side of the service.

Dis you also check the ac breakers in the motorhome breaker panel?

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Old 03-03-2010, 12:28 PM   #3
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Sounds similar to an issue I had on my '07 38T a couple of years ago...might want to check the following thread about issues that manifestat at the EMS panel but are caused by the converter.

Powerline EMS Display not working

For me, the problem with the converter, indicated in the EMS panel behavior, came suspiciously after I disconnected from 50A circuit to exercise my generator too.

I swapped the converter, under warranty. And the problem resolved.

(then I replaced that junk parrallax with an IOTA converter very recently.Still have the newer converter in my garage.)

Would love to hear what you find.
jack
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Old 03-03-2010, 12:37 PM   #4
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FWIW On my unit you do not need to disconnect from shore power to exercise the GenSet, it has priority at the transfer Switch. I would be surprised if you unit did not work the same way. I also agree with CaptBill. See what Is Working to help troubleshoot if it is an indication problem or not.
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Old 03-03-2010, 04:03 PM   #5
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Thanks for your help. I should have made it more clear the problem is not what the digital amp meter shows but rather which light is lot on the source portion of the EMS. So my 30 amp light is on, since I'm hooked up to 50 amp the 50 amp source light should be lighted.

So far everything in the camper works, but I have not checked the airconditioner since it's been cold here in Pa.

I've confirmed that I have both legs of the 50 amp powered at the circuit breakers IE 240 volts AC.

Thanks.
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Old 03-03-2010, 05:21 PM   #6
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This happened to me also. I found one of the circuit breakers in the ac panel of the coach triped. Reset it and all is ok.
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Old 03-03-2010, 05:58 PM   #7
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This has happened to me and been dicussed on this forum before the circuit breaker to the water heater tripped or turned off will cause this and the EMS in the bottom of your main circuit breaker panel can be reset by pulling the 12 volt fuse on the circuit board. The panel should indicate the right connection after installing the 12 volt automotive fuse if not the EMS may need to be replaced there are three resistors on the circuit board that have been a problem they will be burned if that problem. This board does have 240 volts on exposed wiring so if it not comfortable troubling shooting get help.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:17 PM   #8
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I had the exact same problem. The problem was on the Intellitec monitor system. There are four, small surface mount resistors on the PC board that is in the circuit breaker box that burned out on mine. The four resistors were mounted in two sets of parallel connection. When I ordered the replacement board, Intellitec had switched to two larger (1/4 or 1/2 watt) resistors. There were a couple of other changes that cleaned up some patch work on the original board.

I made sure that all power - 12 VDC and 120 VAC was turned off and labeled all of the unlabeled black wires that were connected to the original board before disconnecting and removing the original board. The whole changeout took less than an hour. Everything worked as specified afterwards.

Intellitec has a plant in Florida if you are in the area.

Whithout knowing how old your MH is, you may be able to talk them out of a replacement board. You can get their number from the web or in the Instruction Manual in your pack of manuals.

Good Luck

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Old 03-04-2010, 07:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankT View Post
This happened to me also. I found one of the circuit breakers in the ac panel of the coach triped. Reset it and all is ok.
I had the same problem, but I did it to myself by turning off the CB to the hot water heater. Turns out one of the legs of the 50 amp goes through this breaker.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:23 PM   #10
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Thanks for your suggestions.

I've had the 120 V water heater circuit breaker turned off for several months since I have a problem with the swich. I plan to replace the switch the first chance I get. The EMS worked fine with the circuit breaker off up till Saturday, still I'll turn the CB on the see if that helps.

I saw the 12 V fuse on the board when I had the cover off, the fues is not burned. I did not think to pull it out but I'll try that too.

I'll check for AC voltage from the converter too.

Thanks for some great ideas.
Camp safely.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:00 PM   #11
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My circuit board went south over a year ago; does the same thing, shows 30A when on 50, and displays amperage - although it makes no sense. Some times the A/C with both compressors will be running, clothes dryer, and microwave, and it will show something like 7 amps. Occasionally it will exceed 30 amps and will start shutting down the water heater, refer, etc. It's a minor irritant and I'll probably fix it some day, but then again maybe not.
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Water heater circuit breaker fixed the problem
Old 03-05-2010, 07:02 AM   #12
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Hello again,
I reset the water heater circuit breaker last night and now the EMS 50 amp light is lit and the amperage window is blank. The interesting thing is I then turned the circuit breaker off, since I'm concerned about the WH switch, and the monitor stayed in 50 amp mode. I need to replace the switch when I have time.

Thanks for giving me the idea to try such an easy fix.
Drive safely, you don't want to fly in an EMS helicopter.
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Old 03-05-2010, 11:01 AM   #13
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Which WH switch are you concerned with? My heater had a small one installed on the back, which shorted out. I just took it out of the circuit.
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Old 03-05-2010, 08:09 PM   #14
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We have a standard looking 120 V switch at the top of the monitor panel in the hallway that turns the water heater on and off. The back of the switch is anything but standard having a white plastic piece that holds the wires in contact with the contacts.
Well, the wires are not making complete contact in the back of the switch after I removed the switch intending to replace it with a lighted switch. Try as I might I can't push the wires back into the contacts. But I will after a little more tinkering.

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