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Entry Door Latch Mechanism
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11-08-2011, 12:42 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 2,923
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Have ya tried lubing it well? Worked wonders on mine..
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11-08-2011, 12:59 PM
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#3
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 92
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Lubing hasn't done any good. From the inside, the release lever is VERY loose. Sorta flops around, like it's just worn out. Rather than pursue a temporary fix, If the cost is not too heavy, I would rather replace it and avoid problems down the line. I worry about not being able to get in at some point or worse yet, being trapped inside (lol)...
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11-08-2011, 05:44 PM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
Posts: 3,440
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Free2wander,
The mechanism is made by Trimark Corp. I recently replaced the entire latch assembly on my Journey. I had similar problems....both key locks were becoming difficult to lock/unlock and lubing did no good.
If you remove the mechanism and can locate the 4 or 5 digit code on a metal part on the back side of the interior latch, Trimark can likely get you the right mechanism. I could not find the number they wanted so I ordered mine directly from Winnebago thru Lichtsinn RV in Forest City, IA. It was about $140 with the shipping.
The new mechanism will ship with two keys for the top lock (deadbolt) but will be keyed for your keys for the lower lock (they will ask for your coach serial # when your order the lock). It will not ship with any R&R instructions so I called Trimark and they sent me PDF files for that. It is a bear to get back in but can be done by one person. However, when you are getting ready to line up both the interior and exterior pieces, suggest you have an extra set of hands available.
Finally, mine shipped with no gasket for the exterior piece so I used some clear caulk. Regardless of where you get it, make sure and ask for a new gasket since the old one will not come off the old piece and survive.
__________________
'02 Journey DL, 36GD, 330 CAT. '08 Explorer Toad, Blue Ox Aventa II, Air Force One Toad Brake.
Smith Mountain Lake, VA
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11-08-2011, 05:46 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fulltimer
Posts: 297
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I had to replace mine on my Infinity. I just went to my local rv dealer who doesn't even sell Class A's and they looked it up in one of thier catalogs and ordered me one. It's was 250 pluse tax! So try more lube before you order a new one...
__________________
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11-08-2011, 06:53 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 169
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FREE2WANDER,
I had a problem with my door opener. A friend pulled on the handle and the door didn't open and the handle stayed out. Later the same thing happened again, but the door would not open from the inside or outside.
I have had the opener/latch out several times, I found that the base plate is a cast product which has some slop where the opener shaft goes through the plate. This slop allows a part in the latch mech. to miss its opening match.
I used fishing line to wrap around the shaft to make the slop disappear, and it has worked great. I have bought a new latch and it has the same weaknesses, but haven't installed it yet, because the fish line fix is still holding up.
Some other theads in the past have mentioned to all ways leave a window unlocked because of this latch/lock issue.
__________________
Bob and Bev
06 Itasca 40' Horizon KD
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11-09-2011, 08:04 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 110
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My door latch had acted up a few times, so we opted to leave a window unlatched. While at Tilicum Beach Campground the latch totally failed to open. We(I) ended up pushing my wife up through a window. Latch worked fine from the inside. I proceeded to remove the latch to diagnose and repair, and all comes apart fine, except the Nut that has to be removed (Behind the tape on the door edge). It requires a very thin wall socket (or grind the access opening larger)
The problem was wear in the housing was allowing the outside operating arm to pass under the inside lever that actuated the lock. Drove up the coast an found a welder that could heat the "operating arm" and bend it up about 1/4" so it would make contact with the "Inside lever". Applied some grease to both levers, reassembled and all worked fine for the balance of the 14,000 mile trip.
__________________
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11-09-2011, 09:29 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shadow Hills,CA 91040
Posts: 1,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwasouth
My door latch had acted up a few times, so we opted to leave a window unlatched. While at Tilicum Beach Campground the latch totally failed to open. We(I) ended up pushing my wife up through a window. Latch worked fine from the inside. I proceeded to remove the latch to diagnose and repair, and all comes apart fine, except the Nut that has to be removed (Behind the tape on the door edge). It requires a very thin wall socket (or grind the access opening larger)
The problem was wear in the housing was allowing the outside operating arm to pass under the inside lever that actuated the lock. Drove up the coast an found a welder that could heat the "operating arm" and bend it up about 1/4" so it would make contact with the "Inside lever". Applied some grease to both levers, reassembled and all worked fine for the balance of the 14,000 mile trip.
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Ah ha, the secret is the nut behind the tape ? I had mine partially apart and finally manipulted the alignment of the inside and outside pieces to make better contact. What a PITA that was.
__________________
04 Itasca, Meridian 34H, 330 Cat/2003 CR V Toad
1933 Ford 3 Window,as seen in Bye Bye Birdie
Pvt. E1 Retired, Shadow Hills,Ca.
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11-10-2011, 07:31 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: HOME: Oshkosh, WI
Posts: 1,236
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There is a discussion of removal and replacement
HERE
__________________
2004 Winnebago Journey 39W - 2001 GMC Jimmy
Present at Home: Oshkosh, WI
We call our rig "Ernie the Journey"
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