Eternabond Question

[Outdoorsman2]

Have a 2017 Itasca Spirit 22R aka Minnie Winnie. Zero problems/leaks; but, store outdoors. As a preventative measure, considering taping over the poured on caulk on the roof joints including the 1 piece fiberglass roof cap roof joint(after a proper cleaning of all). Most of my experience as been with aluminum trailers so hope some fiberglass motorhome folks with weight in with their thoughts.

[BFlinn181]

EternaBond tape is a great product, but if not applied properly it can hide leaks. I'd use a heat gun or hair dryer and plastic scraper to remove the old caulk and reapply new self-leveling caulk. It should be checked every 6 months and repaired or patched. The EternaBond tape makes that bi-annual inspection impossible. Unless you use wide enough tape and use a roller (like a wallpaper seam roller) to make sure it's sealed, as I said, it can just hide leaks. I also use acetone on the roof to make sure the tape can seal properly. If you use the tape, especially where the fiberglass cap meets the roof, you still might use self-leveling caulk to make sure there are no gaps for water to enter under the tape.

[Outdoorsman2]

Understand the logic of removing the "old" caulk; but, hate the thought of removing caulk when I am having no leaks/problems. Is there some other preventative action that can be taken before the leak(s) start? Thanks for the input.

[BFlinn181]

If you're going to put Eternabond tape on seams, it will stick and look better if the self-leveling caulk is removed or reduced. Old caulk can crack or get voids in it that can allow water to enter. I've always removed or reduced the old and clean the area before applying new caulk.

Just as on a home, you can shingle over an old roof, but eventually you'll have to remove all of it and start over with a new roof.

[Spk64]

Originally Posted by Outdoorsman2

Understand the logic of removing the "old" caulk; but, hate the thought of removing caulk when I am having no leaks/problems. Is there some other preventative action that can be taken before the leak(s) start? Thanks for the input.

I am in agreement with Bflinn181.
Make sure caulk seal is good. I like to treat this as the primary seal. The eternabond is the secondary. Once you are into it this far best to take extra steps you will not want to repeat the job.
As I mentioned on my coach previous OP just slapped the tape over whatever was there. Water has travelled in many places under. Luckily most of my primary seal caulking was intact. At some point I want to rip it all off reseal and retape but that will be a big project.
6” tape around perimeter and all fans skylights.

[bruceh]

If your only consideration is keeping out water, Eternabond is great.

The Winnebago roofs are held in place by the 'caulk' which is more that a sealant. It is also an adhesive.

This adhesive will degrade (more slowly since it is protected from UV) even under Eternabond with potentially bad results as I have had.

Follow Winnebago's recommendations.

[Brob]

I have used the wide Eternabond tape to cover the front and rear cap joints over the caulk. I made sure that I had a good clean surface on both sides with enough room for a good line of adhesive on both sides. The Eternabond is great if applied properly. I always use a roller as I am installing to ensure a complete seal.

[Ray,IN]

This is a very useful resource: Eternabond video library
I've read many posts about the tape coming loose, when it got down to it, they did not follow installation instructions exactly.

[boyland]

i use it all the time.

I have shortcut installs the great part is if it is messed up big deal cut that out use brakes parts cleaner(non chlorinated ) to clean the area and reapply a new piece over it.

I never have removed the old sealant probably had a couple of places i redid but on 40 foot big deal.

the only issue i see is if some wants to trade in the future a person or dealer might then it was applied to hide an issue.

in my case i do not care

[JoeSR]

For what its worth, in 2006 Winnebago used a self leveling silicone base sealant around the bathroom skylight, stack vent and radio antenna. It looks like the same crap was used all over my roof. This goes against everything that I read on this forum.

My skylight cracked this winter. In the process of removing the old skylight and cleaning up the caulk and sealant, I wanted to temporarily hold the old skylight down for the night. Was I surprised when I learned that tape (electrical or painter’s tape) would not stick to the just cleaned areas. It was if I was trying to stick the wrong side of the tape to the roof. That is when I did my research and found that, per Winnebago, they used silicone based products on the roof.

To compound this problem, I have an allergic reaction to curing silicone (eyes itch and the skin around the eyes swell up). So, I needed a non-silicone solution.

I started using everything the internet experts said would remove silicone. I used the tape test to determine if I had the silicone removed. None of the suggested solvents were effective. This included acetone, naphtha, starting fluid, mineral spirits and others. The best chemical that I found to remove the silicone was Goo Gone for removing the glue left behind by labels and tape.

I used a 3M 4000 UV Polyether Adhesive Sealant to hold the skylight down and Eternabond Tape to cover the roof to skylight joint.

To sum it up, make sure that you know what is on your roof to start with and that whatever you use plays well with it. Don’t take anyone’s word for it, mine included.

[Ray,IN]

JoeSR, buy the specific silicone residue remover, it's in a spray can. As you discovered, nothing will adhere properly to silicone residue, not even more silicone sealant.
Eternabond has their own preparation method, which includes primer spray. It's all in their videos.