Factory cable crimp job

[bobpie]

This has been a ongoing problem that finally left us stranded. After getting the wiring diagram offline and removing the grounding cables and cleaning up the connections, reinstalling, and still having the problem. Crawling around under the coach and pulling, jiggling and searching, I found the second insulated stud connection. Up behind the hot water heater storage box behind the rubber deflector flap, bolted to the frame.
I then found all the corrosion at the connection. After jacking up the coach and blocking up the frame, I proceeded to remove the passenger side front tire, mud flap, and rubber deflecting flap. Unbolted the HWH jack and stabilizer channel and set aside and out of the way.
Spray down and remove the corrosion and try as I might to get the nut off and remove the cables. In doing so the #6 and #4 gauge cables fell out of the 1/0, 3/8 cable crimp fitting. Bad connection which caused the corrosion. I still can not believe it lasted this long. I had to grind the nut off and destroy the connector. I am in the process of getting the parts to fix it RIGHT. Very poor job of manufacturing/assembly on Winnebago/Itasca part.

[bruceh]

Harbor Freight sells a hydraulic crimper for about $50 that does a great job of crimping big wire.

[TwelveVolt]

FYI. Harbor Freight sells a hydraulic crimp tool. It comes with dies for gauge 0, 2, 4 ... 14. I just bought one and it sure beats the manual hammer device I used to borrow from NAPA. The tool costs about $75 ($55 in sale flier). It also reaches into much smaller spaces than you could swing a hammer.

[cowrv39]

I can vouch for the hydraulic crimp tool from Harbor Frieght. I custom make my on cables for everything. The unit paid for itself the first day I used it. I have never had a problem with any of the crimps. What a jewel to have in my tool chest.

[wa8yxm]

DO NOT feel obligated to put the new ground in the same location.

[garykk]

When you're done, spray the connections with battery terminal coating, you can get it at any auto parts store...

[bobpie]

Maybe the factory workers should buy the tool and do a better job of crimping the cables on a new motorhome when they are building it! I have a crimping tool, thanks. I wonder how I should go about getting reimbursed for all my time and expense in parts to fix this problem.

[bobpie]

I just wonder how many more Suncrusier models have the same problem.

[Grimesy]

It is called quality and pride of workmanship. The days when potential employees stood in line to get a job are long gone and the results are what you described. John K Hansen must be spinning in his grave.

Don G. WIT 70041

[bobpie]

how true how true, I thought that the head honchos read these posts. Maybe I'll just buy a new coach and forget about it.

[bobpie]

Finally recieved my power post, now its time to mount, crimp, connect, and START. Wish me luck.

[TwelveVolt]

Since there are a number of owners of the HF hydraulic crimp tool here, I will risk going slightly off-topic with a question.

Does anyone know if the dies' size, shape and mounting method are unique to this tool or an industry standard? I would like to crimp other things such as the figure 8 cross section crimp you would use to put a loop at the end of a security cable or dog leash. As my friend's 7 year old would tell us, "You can Google that", but I don't know what key words to use for these dies. Any help would be appreciated, and no, I don't want to attempt to explain this to customer service in China.

[bobpie]

The engine starts just great after the job. Now it is the generator that is not starting. Coincidence? Here I go again. When I push the start button there is nothing. I took a volt reading at the chassis positive post and come up with 24 volts! Not good. Same reading at the post connector in the battery box. The battery disconnect switch stops working also. I plugged the coach in and 12volt power is available again in the coach and also at the chassis battery post. Push the gen. start button and just get clicking at the generator. I just cant figure out the 24 volts. Some thing must be bridged together. Lets go check wires again.

[Tony Lee]

TwelveVolt - you are looking for a crimper for stainless steel cable - special die and not the same as those for electrical use

[TwelveVolt]

When you see the 24 volts, is your negative meter probe on the battery post or the chassis metal? Should be the same, but then, somebody has been tinkering with your coach :-)

[bobpie]

Originally Posted by TwelveVolt

When you see the 24 volts, is your negative meter probe on the battery post or the chassis metal? Should be the same, but then, somebody has been tinkering with your coach :-)

Battery post. It stopped that reading, but at the oneplace toggle switch I get 10.4 volts for the chassis side and 12.4 on the coach side. Turn on a light or so and they start to dimm and flicker. Also no generator start. If I plug in then I get a 12 volt reading but the generator just clicks. Very perplexing???

[TwelveVolt]

Intuitively, it sounds like a weak connection (cable crimp, terminal post) that is technically there, but is not able to support the current demand. Are you able to see how much current is being drawn from the battery when you try to run the generator starter? When starting, what happens to the voltage at the battery and voltage at the generator? A weak connection would show inadequate starting current, very little voltage change at the battery, and a drastic voltage drop at the starter motor.

You mentioned seeing 12 volts when plugged in to shore power. The charger should push it up to 13 to 14 volts. Is there a problem in the current path from the charger to the batteries?

Which battery starts the generator in your configuration?

The only sources of 24 volts I can think of are either a fault in the charger, or two 12 volt batteries have effectively been wired in series (house and chassis?).

[bobpie]

I have been told that DC voltage is a little bit tricky.

I have found that all my grounds to the frame through those 4 three eight bolts needed to be removed, cleaned, continuity thread ease applied and reassembled. Every thing is working fine on the starting issues.

The 24 volts was just back feeding through the isolator post to the chassis battery.

The generator is started by my chassis batteries.

I was only getting a 1.4 volt reading at the generator before trying to start it.

Thanks twelveVolt for your help as you were right.

[bobpie]

picture?

[bobpie]

pict