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12-12-2017, 10:34 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvo15885
Thank you for the tips. So I went out and looked at the air tanks underneath and noticed that there was a very small drip of oil coming from what looks like solenoids right behind the steps. I also looked at what appears to be a release tip for break or oil where a bladder connects two arms coming to the air breaks also have small traces of oil coming out. That isn’t good right? I attached photos because I am sure I am describing the locations all wrong. Attachment 185530Attachment 185531Attachment 185532
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cvo,
First, if you take your hand/fingers and, very carefully, run them under the lips of each step that goes up into your coach, you'll find a bolt or nut, about mid way from side to side. If you remove those fasteners, you can lift each step plate and pivot it back some. When you do that, you'll reveal the entire pump and manifold assembly of your HWH slide and jack system. You'll see lots of hoses, fittings, solenoids etc. And, more than likely, you'll get a closer look at that potential leak you've described earlier.
As for the pics, all I see in those pics are the drag link connections from the steering box to the left front wheel. Those are greasable ends with bellows on them. You'll see what appears to be oil leaking from them. Well, it is, sorta. When those are greased, during a maintenance run, the grease stays as grease, for a while. Then sometimes, it has tendency to weep a little oil that is emitted from the grease. That's why they look like they do.
Your air tanks are under the center of the coach, very close to the front end. They should have have valves under the midpoint of each one that are attached to cables. Those cables should (but not always do) run to the right front wheel well. When each of those cables are pulled on, you'll move the valves at each of those tanks and, you'll bleed some air from each one. The primary reason for doing this is to bleed any moisture that can accumulate in the air system. Usually, not much, if any, is expelled, just air. I only pull them about once every 6 months or so, 'cause in the 6.5 years we've owned the coach, I've not once ever seen any moisture emitted from them. Hope this info helps some.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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12-12-2017, 10:42 PM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP
cvo,
First, if you take your hand/fingers and, very carefully, run them under the lips of each step that goes up into your coach, you'll find a bolt or nut, about mid way from side to side. If you remove those fasteners, you can lift each step plate and pivot it back some. When you do that, you'll reveal the entire pump and manifold assembly of your HWH slide and jack system. You'll see lots of hoses, fittings, solenoids etc. And, more than likely, you'll get a closer look at that potential leak you've described earlier.
As for the pics, all I see in those pics are the drag link connections from the steering box to the left front wheel. Those are greasable ends with bellows on them. You'll see what appears to be oil leaking from them. Well, it is, sorta. When those are greased, during a maintenance run, the grease stays as grease, for a while. Then sometimes, it has tendency to weep a little oil that is emitted from the grease. That's why they look like they do.
Your air tanks are under the center of the coach, very close to the front end. They should have have valves under the midpoint of each one that are attached to cables. Those cables should (but not always do) run to the right front wheel well. When each of those cables are pulled on, you'll move the valves at each of those tanks and, you'll bleed some air from each one. The primary reason for doing this is to bleed any moisture that can accumulate in the air system. Usually, not much, if any, is expelled, just air. I only pull them about once every 6 months or so, 'cause in the 6.5 years we've owned the coach, I've not once ever seen any moisture emitted from them. Hope this info helps some.
Scott
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Thanks again for getting back to me. So I did some research on the fittings underneath and you are absolutely correct on the grease. As for the hydraulic line that shows a little red fluid drip hanging onto the line, that definitely appears to be a leak. I already removed the steps and looked closer. I cleaned it all up and now I need to decided if I should attempt to replace that line for the small leak or just continue to check the reservoir and just add more hydraulic fluid. The line attaches to a T that enters inside the reservoir and the other end goes to another line that loops around to the top of the reservoir. I couldn’t see where it is leaking from but I did noticed that the line was wet about 3 inches from the T fitting.
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12-12-2017, 10:57 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: JACKSONVILLE,FL ex Newport Beach,Ca
Posts: 319
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Be sure to have the Cat engine serviced,filters,etc. Also have the fan bearing checked. Tom 07 Pacifica CatC7
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12-13-2017, 09:48 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Olympia, Wa
Posts: 2,772
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If you have a water pump grease fitting you may need to grind one edge of the tip as the fit is very tight, just flatten one side. Another point that gets skipped is lube the exhaust brake activator, takes a high temp grease.
LEN
__________________
2004 Clss C 31' Winnebgo
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12-13-2017, 10:31 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLYLEN
If you have a water pump grease fitting you may need to grind one edge of the tip as the fit is very tight, just flatten one side. Another point that gets skipped is lube the exhaust brake activator, takes a high temp grease.
LEN
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Len,
Being that his coach is an '06 Meridian, it's sporting a C-7 CAT and, there is no grease fitting for the fan bearing on that model, just for your info.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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12-14-2017, 05:36 AM
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#34
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP
Len,
Being that his coach is an '06 Meridian, it's sporting a C-7 CAT and, there is no grease fitting for the fan bearing on that model, just for your info.
Scott
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Thanks for the update. I was trying to figure out what that was.
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12-14-2017, 08:56 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Olympia, Wa
Posts: 2,772
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Wasn't sure that's why I posted IF. 3126 did C-7 mother.
LEN
__________________
2004 Clss C 31' Winnebgo
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12-14-2017, 10:06 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLYLEN
Wasn't sure that's why I posted IF. 3126 did C-7 mother.
LEN
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Roger that Sir. I cannot remember all the subtle (but important) differences between the two but, I do remember that one.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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12-14-2017, 10:56 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvo15885
I will need separate windshield insurance? I spoke to my representative with Mercury and they said that is automatically covered under comprehensive coverage. Deductible is 500$.
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I have Progressive and they said they windshield is covered under comp with zero deductible. My collision deductible is $500.
__________________
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2005 Fleetwood Revolution 40C W/Cat C7 towing 2007 Jeep Wrangler, Demco Challenger Tow Bar, Blue Ox Patriot II Toad Brake
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12-14-2017, 11:26 AM
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#38
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 45
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First diesel pusher
Hi my Deductible was so high and the owner said he price new 1 installed for 1200:00 that by year 2 the money I saved on insurance would pay for hope I get 2 years with it
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12-14-2017, 11:29 AM
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#39
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
I have Progressive and they said they windshield is covered under comp with zero deductible. My collision deductible is $500.
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I learned that a few states require insurance to cover glass with no deductible. Sadly of course California is not one of them. Take take take California.
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01-06-2018, 09:51 AM
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#40
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Junior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Rockford, Il.
Posts: 27
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Just don't do what the other Diessel Idiots do and that is Idling forever to warm it up. After starting the engine the air compressor will charge the air brakes. When the air pressure is up your engine is warmed up enough to go. If you think that is not enough by the time you drive out of the campground you have nothing to worry about. There is no need to rattle everyones windows and waste fuel idling your diesel. Ex UPS Feeder Manager's advice. By the way UPS has the largest fleet of diesels in the World.
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01-06-2018, 10:03 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oroville, CA
Posts: 3,133
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I live in California. My auto and RV insurance both cover glass with no deductible. I've replaced my auto windshield a couple of years ago, $0, a vandal broke a window in our MH slideout-the window alone cost $3k, cost me $0.
__________________
Bill, Kathi and Zorro; '05 Beaver Patriot Thunder
2012 Sunnybrook Harmony 21FBS (SQEZINN)
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
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01-06-2018, 06:56 PM
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#42
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruzbill
I live in California. My auto and RV insurance both cover glass with no deductible. I've replaced my auto windshield a couple of years ago, $0, a vandal broke a window in our MH slideout-the window alone cost $3k, cost me $0.
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Can you give me your insurance information please?
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