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Old 12-09-2019, 10:00 AM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 97
Front cap separating

Hello, I have a 2008 Winnebago Voyage, they left front (above side window) rivet has popped out and the Cap is now separating from the side of motorhome. Does anyone have any experience with this? Or any knowledge of RIVET size? I called Winnebago and they didn't have an answer. Thank you.
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Old 12-09-2019, 11:18 AM   #2
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Posts: 449
Its a pan head screw, size not sure of. If ts it gone...which obviously it is, then most likely its stripped.

Few threads around if you google your thread title of guys putting up to 6 or 7 screws along the cap edge.

make sure you squirt some sealant in the hole upon final fastening. it will leak in thru the threads

2009 Winnebago Itasca Horizon 40WD
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Old 12-10-2019, 10:22 AM   #3
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On our journey both sides of the front cap where seperating. I cleaned out under the separation and injected 3m 4000 marine adhesive/sealant and put 4 stainless screws with washers on each side. After it cured i removed the screws, filled the holes and applied touch up paint. Fyi I went with 3m 4000 as it allows for disassembly vs 3m 5000 which is permanent.
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Old 12-10-2019, 09:01 PM   #4
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My front cap is secured with pop-rivets too, I think they are 1/4" or 3/16", can't recall which this late at night.
If you check your drawings on the Winnebago links in the sticky at page top, it will eventually lead you to the specs for your year and model.
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA." My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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Old 12-12-2019, 07:54 PM   #5
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The Weakest Part Of Your Roof -- Is Right There!

At one point my front cap on the driver side looked just like yours. This is more common than you think and it's not hard to fix. So no need to be overly concerned if you do it sooner rather than later.

IMO, Winnebago makes a great product, but I'm not a fan of their roofs for this reason: Wind will enter... right behind the front cap... and rip your roof off. I know. This happened to me in a high wind storm... I fortunately documented with TV weather reports... and more importantly, the local airport maintains wind records I was able to submit to my insurance company.

The cost to replace my roof was in the $35,000 range. And no, this is not a typo. And here's what I really want you to know. My insurance "The Hartford" was great, but only because I logged in my RV maintenance manual (8 months earlier) an entry where I wrote: "Annual roof inspection preformed and all roof caulking replaced in the side channels; and all roof lap-sealant inspected and repaired as necessary."

My point is this: After you repair your roof, you need to log it as proof you preformed the annual roof inspection as recommend by Winnebago or your insurance company will not pay. (They may not pay anyway based on other owns reports, but you will have better LUCK if you keep a detailed maintenance log like aircraft owners do. This log book does not have to be fancy. I just use a "Pee-chee" note book, but it was enough to show/prove I kept up on my roof maintenance.)

The problem with Winnebago roof maintenance, for the last 20 years, is this: What is the right sealant to use?

...But fortunately, with new sealant technology, I think this type by GeoCel seems to be the best, because it's clear and resists the sun better than most:

Geocel GC28100 Pro Flex Rv Flexible Clear

Silkaflex #221 is another type of roof sealant, but I don't have any experience with it either.

QUESTION: Is there another member out there who has used this Geocel product and if so how long has it been holding up without cracking? A lot of people have their own brand, but none of them are "perfect."

100% silicon is the best for UV protection, but it does not have enough "hold" to be used for this application. And polyurathane sealants have great holding power, but will crack in 4-8 months and then you will lose your water protection.

Alternatively, some Winnie owners run a 4" strip of Black or White Eternabond tape (because you can't buy a 2" strip) along the entire roof edge and your gutter, but this maybe overkill, since the problem areas are really on the ends of the roof if you are talking about wind ripping off the roof. Here's a link for Eternabond Tape on Amazon:


Also, it's a real PITA to remove your old sealant. So plan of 3-4 hours... on your knees. Maybe longer. But it's very important you do this!

Removing your old glue from your Winnebago roof channel is one of those jobs I would definitely would want to pay a teenager $20/hr to do if you know one? (Use mineral spirits and a wood scraping tool.)

The weakest part of your roof is right where you show your front cap separating from the sidewall. It's also not uncommon for this crack to be 1/4" so just pump the Geocell in there and smooth over with your finger.

You can both glue and then tape your roof the entire (driver) side of your coach, but I'm hoping they will come out with a clear Eternabond tape or just a 2" version of black, because I have a dark green cap and the black Eternabond tape blends in pretty good. In actuality I think a 1-foot to 4-foot strip of Eternabond tape would be all you really need, but that's a cosmetic decision.

There have been countless threads on how to best re-glue the roof channel. And to my knowledge there is no "clear tape" that will hold-up in the sun.

Tip: When you re-glue your roof, run some paint tape down the roof edge and then apply your sealant. And then take a old toilet paper roll tube and scoop-up the residual sealant. Then use your finger... and pull up the tape to get a smooth edge.
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2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD, ISC-350HP Cummins with 100,000 miles... and the best of 3 Diesels I have owned thus far!
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Old 12-12-2019, 08:38 PM   #6
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Neub has a good tip on using a permanent sealant from 3M if you wan to to fill those holes with bondo and then repaint.

Once you find your coach paint codes by CDI (who painted your RV after it left the Winnebago factory); then you either get a body shop to order an equivalent match from their local auto paint supplier (if they have a formula for CDI); or you can go to Sherwin Williams Auto Paint Distributor (open to the public) and they will give you a higher quality paint for 3x the price.

...or you can order a CDI color in a spray can and attempt the color match yourself. Order here from this company located in all place near Lake Tahoe:


...and don't forget to order a can of clear coat too!

2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD, ISC-350HP Cummins with 100,000 miles... and the best of 3 Diesels I have owned thus far!
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