Full width rear mud guard

[prsmith]

Happy Labour Day Everyone!

Being 'cheap', on my previous rig, a Damon Challenger on a Ford Chassis, I made my own full width rear mud guard.

I used a 2 inch right angle iron with a 1 1/2 strap of the same material thickness and a 3/8 ich conveyor belt sandwiched between the 2 pieces of metal. I cut the belt so that it was about 5 inches from the ground and bolted the assembled sandwich together every foot

I then drilled through the top of the angle iron and through the frame extensions and used two 3/8" stainless steel bolts to mount it in place. I did this in 2001 and it was still holding when I traded the rig in June of this year.

I had often read that we should not drill into the frame because drilling might weaken it. So I ask the question, should I worry about drilling holes into the frame extensions of my 2005 Itasca Suncruiser 35U built on a Dec 2004 W22 chassis?

Thanks,

Preston

[ChrisNiemann]

According to manufacturer YES

According to common sence - Probably Not....

This is a solid steel channel iron frame, if you drilling 1 small 3/8" hole in the extension section of this massive weight "weakens" the frame.... well then you just need a new RV. Look at what you have to do to vehicles to add snow plows or universal side steps. Heck even some 2" hitch receivers require drilling. Our 2003 Ford F250 pickup required us to drill holes in the frame to mount a gooseneck ball and towing system. that took 6 - 5/8" holes into the frame at the main stress point of it all and we have no problems. You're not adding a snow plow or trying to pull a trailer full of Brahma Bulls with it, so hanging the mud guard shouldn't be a problem at all...

Thats my .02 and thats what we would do if you brought it to our shop to have it put on. Either that or weld it, your choice. Bolts work better in my opinion thatway if it wears out or you don't like it you definately won't stress the frame grinding the welds off.

p.s. do you have any pics?

[Chuck 1935]

Drill away you won't hurt anything. You are not cheap, your smart. Those fancy mud guards with the names on them don't work. Mounting the mudguard all the way back and covering the whole gap is the only way to stop damage to the toad.

[AFChap]

Experience of many, many owners has shown that when using a solid full-width flap, the closer it runs to the surface of the road, the MORE rocks & debris it will kick up/suck up into the front of your toad. To avoid the suction/sweeping effect it must be a minimum of 6-8" above the surface of the road. Note that this is true of the solid flaps ...the "hula skirt" type seem to work much better when they are running very close to the road surface.

My coach has one, and I have made sure it rides apx 8" above the road surface. If I go to Alaska, the solid flap will be removed before we leave the lower 48. And if it is ever damaged, I won't spend more than 25 cents to replace it.

[frankdamp]

Depending on the materials technology in the steel frames, you might find you can't drill through because it's hardened. If that's the case there's probably a "DO NOT WELD" sticker there too.

Many bus and truck frames are that way nowadays.

[leadman]

A cobalt drill bit goes right thru any frame rail I have met. A little pricey, but well worth the money.