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Old 09-28-2019, 09:45 AM   #1
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Location: Chesapeake, Va.
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Got my 18 yr. old basement air up & running.

Replaced both comp. hard start capacitors.
Both compressors appear to be drawing the
correct amount of current, running on 30 amp.
line or the generator.

Problem is I have only a 10 deg. differ between
the input temp and out temp at first roof vent.

Going to check the heat exchange coil under the
bed. Don't think that is a problem.
Only other think I can think of is the duct work
under the rear cap, unglued and fallen down.

Anyone with a better ideal??
Thanks for any input.....coopcolt
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:05 PM   #2
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The condenser fins are probably caked with dirt
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Old 09-29-2019, 07:32 AM   #3
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Leaking duct is most likely ... changed the filter?
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Old 09-29-2019, 10:26 AM   #4
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Confirmation, air is leaking from the upper most cover
on the inside duct cover. I can feel it with my hand.

Also with an IR meter, as you raise the pointer upward
on the inner duct cover the temp cools till it gets to
the same temp (71 deg.) as the first exhaust vent in
the bedroom.

Now to decide am I gonna cut this 18 yr. old A/C free.
And when remove try to get to the duct and repair.
Or take a buzz wheel to the inside of the vent cover
and repair the A/C duct from the inside.

Thanks for the input.....coopcolt
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Old 09-29-2019, 07:12 PM   #5
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Little confused. Does your ac duct run up the rear cap or mid ship. If its rear cap theres your leak spot. Dont see how it could leak up in the ceiling.

Regardless it would have to be fixed.
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Old 09-30-2019, 08:54 PM   #6
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Almost got the AC on the ground, one hard to reach screw
on the upper most horse shoe that hold the exhaust air duct
to the cabinet. NO room to get a screw driver on with any
amount of force. Then to remove the two 110 v metal elbows
that's attached to the bottom corner of the cabinet.
Most likely an electrician has a special tool, that I do not!

All and all it was pretty straight forward, will order a new
A/C tomorrow....model 46515-811, less than 2,500.

Then to see how I can get to the duct work that goes
up the back corner wall??
I would like to think I can rivet the fallen duct back together,
then tape.
I will also need new gaskets on the input and output of
the A/C unit. The search goes on..Thanks for the help..tenn
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Old 09-30-2019, 10:34 PM   #7
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Just fyi, this thread has some pictures of what the duct work looks like: Basement Air problem
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coopcolt View Post
Replaced both comp. hard start capacitors.
Both compressors appear to be drawing the
correct amount of current, running on 30 amp.
line or the generator.

Problem is I have only a 10 deg. differ between
the input temp and out temp at first roof vent.

Going to check the heat exchange coil under the
bed. Don't think that is a problem.
Only other think I can think of is the duct work
under the rear cap, unglued and fallen down.

Anyone with a better ideal??
Thanks for any input.....coopcolt
You may find this interesting: page 3 of https://beaveramb.org/Data/PDF%20Man...s%20Manual.pdf
Mine does NOT operate that way, that is from a Beaver forum, which indicates they may be wired to different configurations.
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Old 10-01-2019, 05:43 AM   #9
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cbereil, I don't think mine looks like the pusher model.
My duct works comes up INSIDE the RV. The duct is covered
with a type of thin material that matches the rest of bedroom,
mine being a 02 gas Adventure.

If I can not access the duct from under the RV, then a buzz
wheel, here I come to the inside cover. I will not remove the
rear valance on an 18 yr. old M/H.

Thanks for the input....coopcolt
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Old 11-11-2019, 11:30 PM   #10
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So... you have a basement AC, but your duct work does not go up your rear cap?

Most of use with a basement AC have the duct work type in the picture above. I do... And this is what I did to lower my AC temperature:

1) Use "Duck" Tape with buttal rubber backing adhesive... only available at Walmart... and then spray with Flexseal.

2) Insulate... the air dust by shoving insulation up the rear taillight assembly hole. Don't laugh. It works!

3) Insulate the air chamber inside the RV. I found mine was sucking in air from the closet area and elsewhere from over the engine metal lid.

4) Insulate under your closet and bed.

Thread Link: I Got More Cooling & Better Heat From My Basement AC Doing This! - Winnebago Owners Online Community
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Old 11-12-2019, 08:58 AM   #11
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I can see insisting around the duct behind the rear cap would help, but my air return goes under the bed & then under the closet. Plugging up the air return pathway would not be good.
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Old 11-12-2019, 04:49 PM   #12
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The elbow that is attached to the output of the basement air
is anchored hard to the bottom of the up duct at the rear of
the 02 Adventure.
I went inside to the bedroom and remove the thin wood wall
that is covered with matching wall paper, to expose the duct.
This duct is not metal duct at all, it is a man made rectangle
box. It is constructed of a fiber board, that is held together
with 1 X 1.5 strips of wood on each corner.
I can see some sort of very pliable aluminum material, (tape?)
which most likely lines the entire rectangle box.
The entire unit is sealed with clear RTV, along all corner
where the fiber board and the wood strips come together.

After pressurizing the system I added more sealant to any
leaks that I found.

The new basement air pulls 27 amps, which can be run on
the 5.5 Onan. But leave you nothing when pluged into 30amp.
At this time I have added 115 volt to the #2 compressor, to
be plugged into the camp site giving me 50 amps to MH.
The circuit breaker in the camper will give me control over
the #2 compressor.......coopcolt
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:46 AM   #13
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2002 Ultimate Freedom . Got mine running after finding a loose 110 volt ac connection in the Transfer Switch.
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Old 12-08-2019, 03:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coopcolt View Post
Replaced both comp. hard start capacitors.
Both compressors appear to be drawing the
correct amount of current, running on 30 amp.
line or the generator.

Problem is I have only a 10 deg. differ between
the input temp and out temp at first roof vent.

Going to check the heat exchange coil under the
bed. Don't think that is a problem.
Only other think I can think of is the duct work
under the rear cap, unglued and fallen down.

Anyone with a better ideal??
Thanks for any input.....coopcolt
May I ask,
I know you said "18 year old A/C" but, what make/model/chassis/ coach are we talking about here?
Scott
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