Replaced both comp. hard start capacitors.
Both compressors appear to be drawing the
correct amount of current, running on 30 amp.
line or the generator.
Problem is I have only a 10 deg. differ between
the input temp and out temp at first roof vent.
Going to check the heat exchange coil under the
bed. Don't think that is a problem.
Only other think I can think of is the duct work
under the rear cap, unglued and fallen down.
Anyone with a better ideal??
Thanks for any input.....coopcolt
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Confirmation, air is leaking from the upper most cover
on the inside duct cover. I can feel it with my hand.
Also with an IR meter, as you raise the pointer upward
on the inner duct cover the temp cools till it gets to
the same temp (71 deg.) as the first exhaust vent in
the bedroom.
Now to decide am I gonna cut this 18 yr. old A/C free.
And when remove try to get to the duct and repair.
Or take a buzz wheel to the inside of the vent cover
and repair the A/C duct from the inside.
Little confused. Does your ac duct run up the rear cap or mid ship. If its rear cap theres your leak spot. Dont see how it could leak up in the ceiling.
Almost got the AC on the ground, one hard to reach screw
on the upper most horse shoe that hold the exhaust air duct
to the cabinet. NO room to get a screw driver on with any
amount of force. Then to remove the two 110 v metal elbows
that's attached to the bottom corner of the cabinet.
Most likely an electrician has a special tool, that I do not!
All and all it was pretty straight forward, will order a new
A/C tomorrow....model 46515-811, less than 2,500.
Then to see how I can get to the duct work that goes
up the back corner wall??
I would like to think I can rivet the fallen duct back together,
then tape.
I will also need new gaskets on the input and output of
the A/C unit. The search goes on..Thanks for the help..tenn
Replaced both comp. hard start capacitors.
Both compressors appear to be drawing the
correct amount of current, running on 30 amp.
line or the generator.
Problem is I have only a 10 deg. differ between
the input temp and out temp at first roof vent.
Going to check the heat exchange coil under the
bed. Don't think that is a problem.
Only other think I can think of is the duct work
under the rear cap, unglued and fallen down.
Anyone with a better ideal??
Thanks for any input.....coopcolt
You may find this interesting: page 3 of https://beaveramb.org/Data/PDF%20Man...s%20Manual.pdf
Mine does NOT operate that way, that is from a Beaver forum, which indicates they may be wired to different configurations.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA." My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
cbereil, I don't think mine looks like the pusher model.
My duct works comes up INSIDE the RV. The duct is covered
with a type of thin material that matches the rest of bedroom,
mine being a 02 gas Adventure.
If I can not access the duct from under the RV, then a buzz
wheel, here I come to the inside cover. I will not remove the
rear valance on an 18 yr. old M/H.
I can see insisting around the duct behind the rear cap would help, but my air return goes under the bed & then under the closet. Plugging up the air return pathway would not be good.
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
2022 Coachmen Leprechaun 319MB
towing 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
The elbow that is attached to the output of the basement air
is anchored hard to the bottom of the up duct at the rear of
the 02 Adventure.
I went inside to the bedroom and remove the thin wood wall
that is covered with matching wall paper, to expose the duct.
This duct is not metal duct at all, it is a man made rectangle
box. It is constructed of a fiber board, that is held together
with 1 X 1.5 strips of wood on each corner.
I can see some sort of very pliable aluminum material, (tape?)
which most likely lines the entire rectangle box.
The entire unit is sealed with clear RTV, along all corner
where the fiber board and the wood strips come together.
After pressurizing the system I added more sealant to any
leaks that I found.
The new basement air pulls 27 amps, which can be run on
the 5.5 Onan. But leave you nothing when pluged into 30amp.
At this time I have added 115 volt to the #2 compressor, to
be plugged into the camp site giving me 50 amps to MH.
The circuit breaker in the camper will give me control over
the #2 compressor.......coopcolt
Replaced both comp. hard start capacitors.
Both compressors appear to be drawing the
correct amount of current, running on 30 amp.
line or the generator.
Problem is I have only a 10 deg. differ between
the input temp and out temp at first roof vent.
Going to check the heat exchange coil under the
bed. Don't think that is a problem.
Only other think I can think of is the duct work
under the rear cap, unglued and fallen down.
Anyone with a better ideal??
Thanks for any input.....coopcolt
May I ask,
I know you said "18 year old A/C" but, what make/model/chassis/ coach are we talking about here?
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!