Help! My Motorhome won't start...? - Page 2

nothermark · 06-11-2017, 04:46 AM

He may also simply have a really low engine battery. Even with the boost switch it takes a bit of time to get enough charge into a really flat engine battery to be able to run with the alternator. Hold the button for a good 30 seconds after the engine starts and the battery will come back as much as it is going to. Then either drive or charge the battery. If the battery does not come back at that point it is toast and will basically suck more power than the alternator can handle so the electrical system will shut down. A voltmeter is your friend finding out what battery systems are doing.

FIRE UP · 06-11-2017, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nothermark

He may also simply have a really low engine battery. Even with the boost switch it takes a bit of time to get enough charge into a really flat engine battery to be able to run with the alternator. Hold the button for a good 30 seconds after the engine starts and the battery will come back as much as it is going to. Then either drive or charge the battery. If the battery does not come back at that point it is toast and will basically suck more power than the alternator can handle so the electrical system will shut down. A voltmeter is your friend finding out what battery systems are doing.

nothermark,
You could be right in the potential low battery but, HOLDING that Auxiliary Boost battery switch down after the engine has started, won't do anything. The reason is, the solenoid that is activated to link the two sets of batteries together for cranking the engine, is the same one that links to two together for charging the house batteries. It's alternately wired to automatically engage right after the engine starts. So, holding the switch down that controls it, will do nothing because the solenoid is already engaged.
Scott

nothermark · 06-12-2017, 02:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

nothermark,
You could be right in the potential low battery but, HOLDING that Auxiliary Boost battery switch down after the engine has started, won't do anything. The reason is, the solenoid that is activated to link the two sets of batteries together for cranking the engine, is the same one that links to two together for charging the house batteries. It's alternately wired to automatically engage right after the engine starts. So, holding the switch down that controls it, will do nothing because the solenoid is already engaged.
Scott

Had to do it two days ago. In essence if the engine battery gets too low it won't run the electronic engine controls. The isolation relay will not toggle until the alternator comes up. It takes a bit for the alternator to kick in. If you let go of the button too soon the engine dies. Hold the button for a bit and everything works. I have not tried to time it as I try not to let the engine battery get low but the time required is more than a couple of seconds and less than a minute.

Ramzfan · 07-01-2017, 06:25 PM

I think I've found it! I haven't been too serious about it lately due to other items on my menu, but today, I went after the problem like I should have to begin with. I'm pretty sure I've got it. I found one of the positive cables on the chassis batteries was completely corroded in half. Don't know why I didn't see it before. My readout for the inverter was completely black, so I thought I'd try and find the fuse. In searching for the fuse, I saw these two balls of blue corrosion, which were the ends of the severed cable. If I'm in luck tomorrow, I can find a place to make me up a new #2 cable with ends on it. I'll keep you all advised.

Ramzfan · 07-01-2017, 06:43 PM

Thought I'd attach a photo to show what I meant...

dwhit · 07-01-2017, 07:09 PM

Photos tell the story.

twinboat · 07-01-2017, 07:19 PM

I hope your replacing every cable in your pictures. They are all junk.

Jim_HiTek · 07-02-2017, 07:49 AM

Wow, seldom see corrosion that bad. On a RV anyway.

RKL · 07-02-2017, 12:13 PM

Ramzfan. Saw the pictures of the corroded cables. Confused though. You said in an earlier post that after it wouldnt start, you cleaned the terminals. The picture shows what looks like new batteries but still corroded terminals and cables. Glad it is fixed for you... rkl

RKL · 07-02-2017, 12:16 PM

Ramzfan. Just noticed the pictures are of the 3 house batteries not the starter batteries. Confusion cleared up. Rkl

Ramzfan · 07-02-2017, 08:42 PM

Well, I replaced the cable that was corroded through, but it still won't start. I couldn't figure out why a cable that ran to the house batteries would affect my starting, but it sure needed replacing anyhow. At least everything in the coach works properly now, including the inverter, which was not functioning before. I guess now I need to re-read this entire post and start over.

charles tuit · 07-03-2017, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Hey Ramzfan,

Yes, you do have a "Battery Boost" switch/toggle on the dash. I'm suspecting that you may have already tried using it by the time you read this but, if not, then try it. Hold it down just before you crank the engine. Now, if that doesn't help, I'd definitely check ALL the battery connections which, includes the negative battery cable-to-frame one(s). I've seen a few that were severely corroded/rusted due to neglect. There is also a secondary start relay system that does all the dirty work of connecting the batteries to the starter.

On my Horizon, that relay-start system is located on the frame, in between the basement A/C unit and the engine. It's one serious pain in the a$$ to get to if and when something goes bad on that system. I forgot where it's located on your Meridian. There are a couple of solenoids and a serious sized fuse in that system. Hopefully, you're not having trouble in that system.

Below are a couple of pics of that system. One of these days I'll learn just exactly HOW it works so that, if and maybe WHEN, ours does not start, and, it's not a battery problem, I'll know how analyze that system to be able tell if any part of it has gone bad. If you look at mine, you'll see that, being in the position it's in, (at least in our coach), why it got so corroded and rusted.

I don't know if this system is part of or, your exact problem but, it's good to know it's there and, part of the starting system. Other than that system and the batteries, not sure where to point you. You have NO park, only a NEUTRAL. And that of course, "could" be the issue too, but not likely. Keep us informed of what you find out as, any of us with that era coach/engine/chassis/transmission could have that problem at one time or another.
Scott

Ramzfan,

When my 02 would not start I found the problem in the starter relay system as Scott did. Lucky for me it was in clear view as I have a Cummins. If all fails I would clean up all connections after checking the main fuse located on the starter relay bracket.

Worked for me, good luck

Ramzfan · 07-03-2017, 05:42 PM

Ok, here's what I've tried: This morning, I went down and purchased two new starting batteries. Installed them and nothing.... same problems. Took them back to Sam's Club. Before re-installing the old starting batteries, I cleaned the posts and the connectors. Then I greased them with dielectric grease & re-installed them, making sure that they were completely down on the posts and very tight. Still nothing, but I got it started using the momentary switch on the dash. I am wondering if the connectors are really making good contact. (I'm talking about the factory supplied battery connectors that are tied together with short red & black cables. (see photo) I tried drilling thru one plate and into the connector & adding a screw to make sure there was good contact but it didn't help. I also have one other problem that might be related...I cannot operated either slide out. Just get a clicking noise. Haven't tried operating the slides while holding the momentary switch...just thought of that while typing. Don't really know where else to look. Running out of options. I don't think its in the relay/start system, as that seems to work. It acts like something is just not making good contact. I may end up having to take it to a shop, if I can find one that does good electrical work.

Ramzfan · 07-03-2017, 07:17 PM

Thanks to everyone, it's finally fixed...! I wanted to let you all know in case you ever have this problem. Tough one to find. I had finally run out of ideas, but I thought I'd complete my list of things to try before I gave up and took it somewhere. I drilled the remaining 3 plates and connectors to the batteries and put tech screws into each one, tying the connecting plates directly to the battery connectors. Bingo! It fires right up! The problem was in the connection between the factory plate and the battery post connector which was attached with an immovable wing-nut at each connection. (see photo) Even the slide-outs work. The only problem I have left is that the radio isn't powered up, but that should be a fuse and easy to find (I hope) I couldn't have taken care of all the battery/electrical problems without the wonderful suggestions from this forum. Thanks again.

Steve

twinboat · 07-03-2017, 08:00 PM

Wow !!!!

CJ7365 · 07-03-2017, 08:08 PM

not sure what I am seeing or understand, why would you not get new plates, wont those screws come lose. Happy you got your RV started but not sure of the way you reconnected the battery plates.

Just my opinion, I would get new battery plates and cables, looks pretty sketchy to me

Ramzfan · 07-03-2017, 08:17 PM

Well, I plan on replacing those plates but getting them is another thing. I will probably have to go thru Winnebago to get them and that doesn't help me at all this week. Now that I have the problem behind me, I can do all sorts of things. This will work in the meantime.

twinboat · 07-03-2017, 08:25 PM

First you need to get the proper batteries. The connectors, that are now damaged by screws, are designed for threaded post batteries, like GP31 with stud. Most truck dealers carry them.

That eliminates the problematic adaptors on the wrong batteries, that add connections.

Then everything needs to be cleaned, inspected and then connected properly. No rusty wing nuts squeezed into rubber.

Otherwise, carry a box of tech screws.

cbeierl · 07-03-2017, 10:39 PM

Here's what the connectors should look like:

I replaced my original chassis batteries (shown above) after 11.5 years of service with two more Freightliner Alliance batteries:

EPM-AE1231MF 1125CCA-STUD GRP31 (List $167.88) Price $114.65ea

from my local Freightliner dealer.

Ramzfan · 07-04-2017, 11:02 AM

Chris, I notice that your connectors look like the type that attach over the threaded studs, not like mine which are designed to go over the large posts on a battery. Did yours come like that or did you add those special? The entire problem with mine is the post connectors that swivel underneath the end plates on the cables. probably was fine when the coach was new but as they grow old, they're just like us.