"HOT" Water heater switch

rgrstndgby · 05-06-2008, 09:13 AM

Yep, you read that right, I'm asking about the switch, not the water heater..On my 04 33V Bago, the lighted rocker switch that controls the electric water heater (located at the top of the "One Place" is getting "too hot to touch". I replaced the original switch about a year ago, same issue. It gets so hot that it fuses the pins that hold the bezel to the switch.. This wasn't an issue for the first couple of years I owned (bought new)the coach. Winnebago phone guy couldnt help, and the schematic shows only 2 yellow wires, mine has 3, 2 yellows, and a white. Removing the white wire causes the light to go away. The switch activates the heater, and I can monitor its use thru the "amp" panel on the One Place, so I can use it without the white wire, just would like to know whats going on. Also, when fully wired, and on 12V, the switch will light up, but, of course, no 120V to the element, so no hot water. Anyone else experience this?...rgr...

rgrstndgby · 05-06-2008, 09:13 AM

Yep, you read that right, I'm asking about the switch, not the water heater..On my 04 33V Bago, the lighted rocker switch that controls the electric water heater (located at the top of the "One Place" is getting "too hot to touch". I replaced the original switch about a year ago, same issue. It gets so hot that it fuses the pins that hold the bezel to the switch.. This wasn't an issue for the first couple of years I owned (bought new)the coach. Winnebago phone guy couldnt help, and the schematic shows only 2 yellow wires, mine has 3, 2 yellows, and a white. Removing the white wire causes the light to go away. The switch activates the heater, and I can monitor its use thru the "amp" panel on the One Place, so I can use it without the white wire, just would like to know whats going on. Also, when fully wired, and on 12V, the switch will light up, but, of course, no 120V to the element, so no hot water. Anyone else experience this?...rgr...

DancinCampers · 05-06-2008, 11:04 AM

I would start with the amp rating of switch. I don't have a light on mine, but when I relocated it I went from the 15amp to a 20 amp. I believe the circuit breaker for the heater is 20amp.

Also, you may have another switch on the back of the water heater, most older Atwoods do. Mine, and several others on the board, have had theirs melt. I took mine out of the circuit & wired straight to the t-stat.

I would also check all your wire connections, if not tight enough could be raising the resistance in the circuit. I believe the hot wire starts at the breaker, then to EMS relay, then to your wall switch, then switch on heater, then t-stat, then ECO then element. A lot of connections along the way. Of course then there is the neutral, which I think goes from the element to the breaker panel neutral bar.

And,if your heater is located like mine, removal was required to get to the back of the heater.

Best of luck.

RedT · 05-06-2008, 11:05 AM

We experience the same thing in our '04 Meridian. The white wire you disconnected is JP 14 - - what you did was remove the ground for the lamp. As you indicated, the two yellow wires (JA 14 & JP 14) control the electric heater element in the water heater.

We resolved the HOT hot water light by remembering to turn it off after use.

skigramp · 05-06-2008, 12:43 PM

Red T

It is interesting that your '04 Meridian has a light to tell you when your heater is on ... and you have disconnected it ...

My '04 Journey did not have a light (my switch is hidden behind a door above the washer /dryer) and I was having a difficult time remembering to turn the heater off ... so I went to Radio Shack and bought a 12 V diode and installed it where I can see it to remind me that the heater is on ...

My rememberer is not as sharp as it once was and I was draining my house batteries in short order when dry camping and on the inverter ... the batteries hold their charge much better when the water heater and frig are on gas ...

rgrstndgby · 05-06-2008, 03:06 PM

Thanks for the help you guys. I had checked all the connections I could reach, all were very low res., but on a 3rd look I found what seems to be an intermitant in the light switch.. Twisting it causes an on/off to occur, so I'll order a new one from Winnebago, and try it again. The one currently installed is a OEM unit, but the original failed, so I guess this one might have done the same. No markings on the switch to indicate the amp cap., . I'll ask when I order the new one.. Again, thanks... ps, curious that the Bago schematic for an 04 apparantly shows NON lighted switch, as only shows 2 wires.

RedT · 05-06-2008, 04:02 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Red T

It is interesting that your '04 Meridian has a light to tell you when your heater is on ... and you have disconnected it ... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

No, I didn't disconnect it. I explained to RGRSTNDGBY what he did when he removed the White (JP 14) wire. You can download a wiring diagram from Winnebago that will show your specific wiring. (There will be some differences between the Meridian and the Journey)

Jackm · 05-06-2008, 08:35 PM

I ran into the same issue but in my case, the light inside the switch kept burning out. As full-time RVers, we often leave the switch on for months. As you say, the switch gets very hot. My conclusion is that the wattage is simply too high. I looked for an LED-based 12-volt switch but couldn't find one that fit in the existing recepticle. I may simply replace the entire switch with an LED switch and call it good. For now, the switch works but the light is once again burned out. Replacement rocker switches (lighted and unlit) can be found in most RV catalogs but don't expect the bulb to last and watch your fingers.

Jack

rgrstndgby · 05-08-2008, 04:22 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">As you say, the switch gets very hot. My conclusion is that the wattage is simply too high. I looked for an LED-based 12-volt switch but couldn't find one that fit in the existing recepticle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I agree Jack, Ive ordered a new switch, if it (the light inside) fails, I'll just disconnect the white wire, and add an led light to the circuit. Id like to keep things 'original" on the "one place", but no biggie if it doesnt work out that way. I have 2 friends with similar setups, that have had no trouble, but seeing that some of you have, it makes me conclude that Winnie doesn't use a very good quality , or properly "spec'd" switch....rgr...