Community Forums

RKL · 11-07-2009, 07:57 PM

I have full body paint on my Journey and want to replace caulk in the roof to side wall joint channel ( the J channel).I was told by my dealer after removing the old caulk and cleaning residue to press on the side wall to expose the bottom of the J channel and insert the caulk nozzle into the gap and fill with caulk to top of channel and relieve the pressure and then trowel off the remaining caulk at a 45 degree angle to the roof, thus filling the channel completely and insuring the roof bond to the channel.
Some forum writers have advised not to fill the J channel but merely only about 1/4 inch into the gap, leaving the bottom of the channel without caulk, and then feather it...i would appreciate any input...First time I had it done, tech merely placed it along the joint and feathered it...It didn't last long...thanks...RKL

RKL · 11-07-2009, 08:00 PM

opps, I meant to say...fill J channel only with about one quarter inch of caulk from the top of the channel, not 14 inches....sorry RKL

Tagalong · 11-07-2009, 08:45 PM

RKL, check out my post on "Caulking" in this forum thread. I used one and a half tubes of caulking per side filling the "J" Channels. Measuring 1/4" of caulking is difficult. It's easier to use the tip of the caulking tube to "open" the gap between the top of the aluminum outer gutter and the fiberglass of the roof edge and observe from the side of the nozzel as you squeeze the caulk into the "J" Channel. You can observe the caulk as it flows down the edge f the "J" Channel, then let the caulk flow just below the top of the outer edge of the "J" channel. When you remove the nozzle from the "J" Channel, the fiberglass roof edge pushes against the metal of the "J" Channel which will cause the caulk to rise upward. Then if you don't mind smoothing out the caulk with your finger, you get the proper fill of the space between the roof and the "J" Channel. (You might want to use rubber gloves for the caulking and smoothing application of the caulk.)
Hope this helps.
Dave

Dunnpe · 11-07-2009, 10:54 PM

There is a older thread concerning this where an individual used a screen door spline in the bottom of the J channel first. This put pressure on the fiberglass to hold it in place, taking that duty away from the caulking and it also left the bottom of the J channel open so as to let any water that got in to be able to drain out the factory drain slots along the channel. He then put the caulking on top of the spline to finish off the project. The idea was very well received by those of us on this site. You may want to run a search on this to see what comes up, or perhaps someone else will recall the particular thread.

MonacoMama · 11-07-2009, 11:19 PM

You will find the thread mentioned by Dunnpe here at this thread.
Good Luck!

RKL · 11-09-2009, 06:45 AM

Thanks for the responses...I looked at the J channel diagram per your link and my feeling is that even if the channel was filled with caulk, a break in the caulk can not allow water to penetrate beyond the channel even if the J channel was plugged as the interior side of the J channel is almost 3 times higher than the exterior side and water would basically seek its own level not allow any additional penetration...Worst case is the channel stays wet..I prefer to put as much cau;lk into the channel as possible as the whole purpose of the channel is to anchor the roof..The more caulk adhering to the roof material, the better...I bet at the factory, they just put as much caulk into the void as will fit and then feather whatever weeps out. thanks again...RKL