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Old 09-12-2017, 11:28 AM   #15
Join Date: Dec 2016
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Must be nonstock struts. My 2008 Horizon lifts well out of the way. Trays out, the batteries and cables are wide open for inspection.

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Old 09-12-2017, 11:30 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo View Post
Please do NOT use duct tape on your coach ! painted or not, it CAN pull the finish off...

but ditto on the flow-rite watering system every time I hook it up I appreciate it !
Oh like he.. it will. If your paint comes off that easy, someone did one lousy paint job on your coach. Now, I never suggested to leave it on there for 6 months. Just use it long enough to perform the task of checking the battery water and adding any if needed, geeze. And, if you're that paranoid about it, then get a long broom handle and put a rubber cane end on it that will grip the surface of the door enough to hold it open while you do your water checking. This is not rocket science. The OP needs to get this done so those batts do not go completely dry which, can happen from time to time, depending on the maintenance schedule he's been keeping on them.

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Old 09-15-2017, 11:48 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by DAN L View Post
Install AGM batteries.
I've read here on many posts that AGM's are a good option BUT are very expensive AND you have to have the right charging system for them too. If you do regular PM on your batteries and never run them dead, they will last you for years.

If you want to make this important PM item easy to get to, simply get & install a watering system. I installed one on MH about 6 months ago and without a doubt is one of the best mod's I have done. I can water my batteries once a month in five minutes and that includes going to the wet bay and getting distilled water.

Here's what I installed:
Installed a Flow-Rite, Qwik-Fill On-Board Battery Watering System for both of my house batts and my chassis battery with Kit A that took care of both house batts, Kit B which was for the chassis battery and then Kit C which is the Squeeze Bulb Filler that has to be bought separately.

These kits came with plenty of hose (black & clear) to cut and modify each length that was needed with plenty left over. Also comes with extra small fittings and red caps so you can switch and modify each manifold the way the lines need to be routed for your situation. They are well supplied kits with good instructions and great packaging.

Purchased from the rvupgradestore.com

My Install Procedure:
1) Made sure all my batteries were up to full charge before I installed new system

2) Since I’d have to disconnect a couple of my battery cables to gain access to the fill cells to install this new watering system, the first thing I did was make sure all coach systems were off, no shore power hooked up and then hooked up my OBD II 12volt Battery Backup Memory Saver to the OBD port under the dash to preserve ECM and all other codes etc.

3) Removed my watch & wedding band and put on safety glasses and rubber surgical gloves

4) After reading the directions of different ways to route fill lines, and since I was using 2 kits to go across 3 batteries, I drew out on paper a simple drawing of how I was going to route my lines and which of the included fittings had to switched out or reversed on the manifolds for my particular setup and then made those modifications (one pair of manifolds at a time)

5) Did the install.

6) Afterwards, I got my gallon of distilled water, attached Kit C which is the filler bulb to the new systems clear fill line, dropped the other end into the gallon jug and began squeezing the bulb. It took about 12 or so squeezes initially to fill the lines and to the batteries. Once filled, detached the fill line using the quick disconnect fitting that’s included and made that line long enough to keep it attached to the batteries and in the battery bay for easy access next time.

So next time when I want to check my water level (about once a month, especially in the summer) I just go fetch my gallon of distilled water and filler bulb, drop one end into the gallon, snap the other end to the battery fill line and squeeze. When the bulb gets firm, the batteries are full. I never again have to get in there, pop off tops, look at the levels and do the normal messy fill method.

Total time of install of about 1 hour. Total cost was right about $104 or so because I also bought a bottle of Aerospace 303 to get me over the $100 mark to get Free Shipping.
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:20 PM   #18
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I was able to gain full access to the compartment. Turns out, there is a retaining cable to prevent the door from full travel (?!?). Releasing that cable allows good access to the front two batteries but the drawer does not come out far enough to get at the back two without using a mirror as someone had mentioned.
At least I know. Thanks all!
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Old 09-20-2017, 09:24 PM   #19
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I'm in the same boat and was going to ask this same question. The draw slides out far enough to check the 2 front batteries but the back two it looks like even getting the cap off will be a pain. Very bad design, if mine where any higher the batteries wouldn't even fit. There is plenty of room to mount both drawers lower in the compartment allowing access the the back of the top tray/draw but that isn't how they installed them.
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Old 09-21-2017, 03:51 AM   #20
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Mine is the same although the door swings as it should. I'm running T-145 and HAVE to run a watering system since there is no other way to fill them. To make sure that the valves don't clog and ultimately dry out the battery I try to inspect them once a year, and that unfortunately requires pulling the front batteries out to slide the rear ones forward enough to look in there. I also do a hydrometer test on all cells and log them on a spread sheet, that way I can track the problem children along the way.

Also, for anyone that pulls these slides out, remember that you are canterlevering 250lbs over your feet (mine are coming up on 300)... when mine are out I have a 18" steel roller on an adjustable stand normally used to support long boards on a saw. The tray just rolls onto the stand and stays safe. Wether the tray could snap, dunno, but that roller stand is required when my feet are under it.

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Old 09-24-2017, 07:31 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by norwestie View Post
The tray DOES slide out. Where it is stored, it is not easy to pull it out. That is not the issue. When the tray is pulled out all the way, the door is just inches above the batteries making it very difficult to check water levels.

The door has a cable on it so it doesn’t go up and hit the slide out. Unhook the cable.

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