Community Forums

bglewis · 10-05-2016, 11:57 AM

I have a 2004 Winibego Journey 36G. My driver side HWH leveling jack is leaking at the seal, (not the hose fitting). It filled the base saucer on last extention!

A local hydraulic shop can repair it, so I plan to remove it and take it to them. I have looked at the installation and with removal of the mud flap and turning the front wheel full right, it appears to be do-able. Has any one done this? Another poster said he did it on gravel and had to dig a hole under it to get it out of the bracket. I would probably do it on my hangar floor but it appears I'd have to jack the front end of the MH up to get it out. I don't like the idea of being under it when it is jacked up. I may have to dig the hole!

John Hilley · 10-05-2016, 12:17 PM

You could drive the front up on some 2x12 planks or use jackstands when jacked up. 12,000# jackstands are fairly inexpensive.

cbeierl · 10-05-2016, 04:02 PM

I have removed and replaced the left front jack on my 2005 Vectra 36RD. I don't recall any difficulties, but I did extend my left front slide for access. I don't think there's any need for much vertical motion.

70ChevelleSS · 10-06-2016, 06:19 AM

If the jack works enough to lift the coach place enough wood blocks under jacks to lift the front tires off the ground. Place more blocks under the tires and raise the jacks.

tderonne · 10-06-2016, 10:41 AM

Be aware that HWH uses a lot of non-standard components. Your local shop may be able to get it apart, but they might not be able to get the right parts (seals/wipers/guides) to fix it. HWH does not sell the parts either, they tell you to ship it to them for rebuild.

G3G4G5 · 10-06-2016, 07:41 PM

I replaced the front, right side jack on my 05 Adventurer. Very easy to do if similar to set up on your coach. I would recommend ordering a new or rebuilt jack from HWH instead of trying to rebuild/fix locally.

If you can,
1. Extend jack, insert many shims into both springs, so that when you retract the jack, the springs will remain extended.
2. Retract jack, remove springs and jack plate.
3. Disconnect hydraulic line and seal with screw on end fitting.
4. Disconnect electrical connector to jack extended alarm magnetic switch, if installed.
5. Remove 2 gusset plates, probably 4 bolts on each.
6. Remove jack.
7. Do everything in reverse with new jack.

PM or add here if you've got questions! Lots of schematics on HWH.com too.

Chris

mj25 · 06-30-2020, 01:24 PM

Chris,
I am going to be taking off 2 leveling jacks and taking them to get rebuilt. I like your step by step directions to take them off. For step 3 you mentioned disconnecting and sealing the hydraulic line. Can you be more specific how you do that? Thank you.

Ray,IN · 06-30-2020, 09:55 PM

This is a listing of HWH service centers highlighted in blue: Country
A representative of HWH is a commercial member of irv2.com. hopefully he will see your thread and respond, as he freely offers his advice and recommendations.

azpete · 07-01-2020, 08:05 AM

if you just plug the line with anything to keep it clean, you will be ok. there is a screw in plug, from parker, you can get it from parker or grainger, but it cost about 10 dollars.
the jacks are self bleeding, so you dont have to worry about air in the line.
as others have said, the removal, and the installation are pretty much straight forward.
if you want it rebuilt, by hwh, send an email to service@hwh.com.
they will either contact you, or email you with a RGA number to send the cylinder in under. this is your tracking number. give them your name, address, phone, year, make and model, and vin number. this is for the one year warranty. also a description of your problem.
if you can, the model number off the cylinder will help.
it takes about three weeks to get it back. the only price hwh will quote is for a reman cylinder, since they dont know whats wrong with yours. the more info you provide, the better it is for the hwh tech.
let me know if you need help, 1 602 549 3638
paul maddox
i work full time for hwh corp, i do not solicit part sales or service work on this forum.

mj25 · 07-02-2020, 08:13 AM

Hi Paul,

Thank you for helping. Do you know the size of the plug? I have a Granger store not far from me in Ann Arbor. I can run and pick a couple up. Thanks again.
I sent an email to hwh and will wait for them to get back to me. I called 2 days ago, and was told that they are on a call back system right now because they are busy. I haven't heard back from them yet. The email might be a quicker way to contact them. Thank you, again.
Marty

mj25 · 07-02-2020, 08:14 AM

Thank you. I am going to call Stuart's in Indiana today. Thank you for the list of service companies.
Marty

JBDISCOVERY · 07-02-2020, 08:39 AM

If you are handy enough, completing the rebuild is a reasonable project.
Having done it twice, the hardest part (most dangerous) is getting the jack
off of the frame.
Blocking the jack while removing the frame bolts works well.
There is a manual on the web detailing how to replace the jack seals.
Pretty straight forward. A local seal shop should have the replacement seals
at a reasonable cost. OEM seal kits are expensive.
Getting the jack back up to attach the bolts can be done using the HYD
system pump with someone assisting pushing the correct button.
Pin the first bolt. The rest go easier.
JimB

Mudfrog · 07-02-2020, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mj25

Hi Paul,

Thank you for helping. Do you know the size of the plug? I have a Granger store not far from me in Ann Arbor. I can run and pick a couple up. Thanks again.
I sent an email to hwh and will wait for them to get back to me. I called 2 days ago, and was told that they are on a call back system right now because they are busy. I haven't heard back from them yet. The email might be a quicker way to contact them. Thank you, again.
Marty

There are a number of things that can be used to plug the line. Being a cheapskate, I wasn't about to spend money plugging up the line so my idea was to insert a sharpened pencil into it. A quick twist as it went in kept the fluid in and the debris out. Mine happens to utilize flare fittings so it would have been easy to just buy a male fitting like below. But then again, I'm a cheapskate.

azpete · 07-02-2020, 10:02 AM

plug is for 1/4 hydraulic fittings by parker. we use parker for all our fittings.
plug part # hwh RF14111 parker #4 PNTX S
cap part # hwh RF49453 parker # 4 FNTX
hope this helps. tell them, this is for 1/4 inside diameter
some parker stores will sell you just one, but they may tell you the part only comes in larger quantities,
we only offer small parts like this in quantities of 5.a

a dealer may have a broken package to sell them individually.