Ice Maker Water Lines

[Don The Ham]

I plan on using my MH during January when temperatures may be as low as 10 degrees and I am concerned about the ice maker water lines in the back of the refrigerator freezing.

Does anybody have experence with these ice maker water lines in 10 degree temperatures?

I am considering installation of a valve under the sink near the water filter to disable water flow to the refrigerators ice maker to prevent damage to these lines.

[Don The Ham]

I plan on using my MH during January when temperatures may be as low as 10 degrees and I am concerned about the ice maker water lines in the back of the refrigerator freezing.

Does anybody have experence with these ice maker water lines in 10 degree temperatures?

I am considering installation of a valve under the sink near the water filter to disable water flow to the refrigerators ice maker to prevent damage to these lines.

[rvcarpenter]

I don't have one on my coach but I would install the valve like you say. Just make sure you drain the line before you close it.

[RustyJC]

The original ice maker water line in my RV was heat traced and had a shutoff valve under the sink where it took its supply. If you decide to disable it, I'd blow out the lines on both sides of the solenoid valve as well as the solenoid valve itself with compressed air.

Rusty

[vicsryd]

If it were me I would drain the line and not use the ice maker at all.

The problem with the solenoid and the line up to the ice maker itself is when it's below about 20 degrees you're moving or if there is wind. Leaving the fridge on and the heat trace as well as the heat fridge from itself will only protect the solenoid and line while the coach is stationary but probably not down to 10 degrees.

The process I'd use if it were my coach:

The line to the solenoid starts with the water filter (in my coach). Remove any water pressure from the lines and (with a pan underneath) remove the water filter canister. Leave the pan in place.

Now disconnect the outside part of the line from the solenoid and it should drain back into the pan inside. Use your air line if you have one (or mouth if your not proud ) and blow into the end of he line to be sure the water is pushed back and out to the pan inside.

The quick way to drain the solenoid and line up is to apply 110-120volts (yes the solenoid is a 120v device) to open the solenoid and gravity will do the rest. The slow way is to lower the ice maker arm and let it cycle a couple of time over 2-3 hours.

Reconnect the line to the solenoid and put the filter canister back in place. Make darn sure the ice maker arm is up and stays up for the duration otherwise this will all be for not.

[AFChap]

We spent a week in western New Mexico with day temps 15-20 degrees, and night around 5 below. We never thought about being concerned about the ice maker lines, and did not have any problems with it. However, if you do want to diasable it, you should already have the shut-off valve under the galley sink, and can proceed as others have already indicated.

[vicsryd]

Interestingly, my Journey doesn't have a shut off valvel for that line. It's just T'd off the line that goes to the filtered water dispenser. I'd be curious as to what others have.

[cbeierl]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Interestingly, my Journey doesn't have a shut off valvel for that line. It's just T'd off the line that goes to the filtered water dispenser. I'd be curious as to what others have. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ours does have a shutoff, although it's hidden from sight under the sink. I have to follow the small line from the tee to the icemaker blind with my hand and the shutoff is within a foot of the tee.

[smlranger]

I'm learning here...wasn't aware of any shut off valve for that line under the sink. Whe I 'winterize', I have been disconnecting the line at the solenoid and the air I use to blow out the rest of the water lines seems to clear that line.

I did notice that line in the fridge compartment is partially encased in some sort of foil wrap and has a wire twisted around the line...wondered if this was supposed to be some sort of 'heat tape'???

[ichn2go]

My Ice Maker has a shut off, but Gary, when you blow the line out with air, the shut off serves no purpose except if the Ice Maker leaks in the summer. Taking care of the Ice Maker is part of winterizing.My valve is under the sink also and it helps to trace the Line to find it....take care Merry Christmas to all

[gwedgewo]

Mine also has a shutoff under the sink to the icemaker. If the frig is on its heat traced around the solenoid outside and shouldn't freeze like Paul said. I leave my frig off when not in use and the process I use to winterize is:
Disconnect the supply line to the outside solenoid (water hose type fitting), Inside remove the water filter and install the filter bypass plug, blow the line (all water lines also)out with air connected at the main water connection, When clear close the small valve under the sink to the ice maker, supply line is now clear, disconnect the outlet tube from the solenoid and blow through the line until clear (just like a straw), and that's it. Or just leave your frig on year round.

[Dave from MN]

I have been in some freezing temp while wintering in New Mexico & Arizona. I don't use the ice maker so I don't know if it has frozen or not. I believe there is a heat tape around the line after the solenoid.

[vicsryd]

Found the shut off valve using cbeierl's suggestion of feeling along the line. It was beyond the edge of the cabinet panel where the water lines enter/exit under the sink. It's also worth noting it's a brass T valve, not plastic.

[Roadking]

Just a note about the Solinoid valve. When I sold my house those items I kept I put in storage for a brief period during winter until my son could take them. One of the items was a fridge with ice maker. The solinoid valve was identical to the one used on my Norcold, and as someone stated earlier, operated by 120V-AC.

The storage shed was locdated in the high dessert and winter nights got into the mid 20's. Bottom line...the valve was obviously disconnected but there was water inside of the valve and it froze and broke the valve. A universal replacement valve was about $50.00 and was a pain to install.

So, disconnecting the supply line may not be sufficient. I would strongly recommend activating valve and blowing the water out of the valve, or remove the valve and reinstall it when you need it. Removal may save you some money and problems.

Neither the line to my fridge nor the solinoid valve is cold weather protected with any heat tape or insulation.