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Old 09-24-2019, 08:21 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Carmel, Indiana
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Issue with hot water heater

I recently had the lighted hot water 110V switch bulb burn out with the switch in the on position. When changing campgrounds, I turned the 110V switch to off while driving. When arriving at the new campground, and hooked up to power, I turned it back to on, but now I can not get the 110V side, nor the gas side of the water heater to work. We are currently in a fairly remote location, is there a way to wire around the 110V electric switch. I would be fine with just running it on propane. Until I turned the 110V switch to off, the electric side of water heater continued to work after the bulb burned out in the switch while plugged in at the prior campground.

The hot water heater is an Atwood GCH10A-4E (gas/electric) in a 2006 Winnebago Journey.

Clayton
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:30 PM   #2
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Atwood GCH10A-4E in a 2006 year RV is one of the first to use the NEW Version

It uses 12VDC as control power for both the Electric & Propane functions

Common FUSED DC source goes to BOTH on/off switches
Then DC goes to the circuit board....thru 'thermal fuse' ---t-stat and back to circuit board
Then depending on which heat source....DC either goes to gas valve OR to a DC Relay to trigger the 120VAC to element

Common issues that shutdown BOTH electric & Propane ARE:
1) The Supply DC source to the on/off switches..FUSE blown
2) The Thermal Fuse (outside compartment in the clear tube...brown wire)
3) The 2A Fuse on circuit board

*Common Supply Fuse Blown........short in one of the on/off switches
**Thermal Fuse blows when exposed to 190*F+ temp from Flame blowback. One shot device has to be replaced
Can remove it and plug Brown Wire directly onto T-stat to check function
***2A fuse on circuit board blown.....circuit board short


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Old 09-25-2019, 10:18 AM   #3
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In the daylight of this morning I was able to do some better troubleshooting and found an intermittent issue with the thermostat. Luckily was able to locate suitable replacement and we are back in business. Running an ohmmeter across the terminals of the thermostat would either read 0 or when touched again read as open. By bypassing the thermostat with a short piece of wire between the two connectors the water heater immediately turned on thus helping to isolate the problem.

Thanks for the suggestion to try that.
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