Just Info

[tbethurum]

On some past posts I read about DP overheating on long grades, just a small note, I purchased a 2000 Winn 40J with the 300 hp cat, but the original owner had a larger oil pan installed to 30 quarts, so far pulled the CA grapevine 105 degree day, air on, no overheating just a slight tick on the temp gaudge, we also pull a Dodge Dakota.

The 300 hp is fine but could use more hp but we are never ina hurry.

[AFChap]

Whether or not it overheats depends on whether or not you lug it down too much ...if you keep the RPMs up properly you will have no problems unless your radiator is clogged... I'm guessing a "40J" is an Ultimate Advantage (maybe Freedom) with a side radiator, so radiator clogging would be a minor/if ever problem..

[tbethurum]

It'a a UA rear radiator I never let the RPM go below 1500 on any grade, keep at 2000, had a side job pulling tanker over the Grapevine 80,000 all the time.

[tbethurum]

Does basement AC keep your MH cool on a 100 degree day, as mine doesn't

[AFChap]

Sounds like you know the routine for hill climbing! The rear rads do tend to get clogged from dust, especially when the slobber tube is liberal. Annual cleaning with Simple green or some thing similar has been very helpful for many owners.

Does the basement ac keep the coach cool? There are lots of threads here discussing that!! It does depend a bit on what you mean by "cool", but there are some possible problem areas. Mine does very well to a bit over 100. In tX this summer, 115+ outside got inside temps into the low 90's. You need to be sure both compressors are running. The second should kick on if temp requested on 'stat is 3 or more degrees from the temp on the 'stat. You can easily see if one or both are running when you are on 30a shore power or on the generator as the amp panel will show apx 17a when 1 is running, and apx 24a when both are running. A burned start up capacitor is most common cause for the 2nd compressor not running. Another common problem is seperated duct behind the rear cap, commonly at the bottom elbow turning up, or at a seam a bit over halfway up. I got mine working a lot better a couple of times by retaping the bottom elbow. Some owners have retaped the upper seam by using a long stick. You can normally detect a duct leak by feeling up behind the cap OR the outer surface of the cap on a hot day when the ac has been running for awhile.

If you search the old threads you may find discussion of air temp. I have checked mine with an infrared thermometer. I check air temp at the intake under my bed, and by holding the temp sensor pointed into a ceiling duct. Output air temp is apx 20 degrees cooler with one compressor running, and up to 40 degrees cooler with both compressors running.

[tbethurum]

Thanks for all the info, yes both mt compressors are running as my amps pull 18 to 24 on start up, tell me how do I find the rear cap. I'm still new at this as we only purchased this unit less tan two years ago, it was located in Texas, picked up on the cheap on ebay, 72,000 miles on it so far not many problems fixed some bolts in the jacks that sheared off on the rear also need to replace the fridge as it doesn't keep cool in the summer.

[AFChap]

"Rear cap" = the molded fiberglass covering the rear end of the MH. If you lay on your back looking up under the right rear of the coach between the fiberglass and the ac/heat pump unit, you can see the duct comes out the rear of the heat pump and immediately turns upward. That turn is a common leak point. Then apx 5' up behind the fiberglass the duct has a "Y" where it splits to go along inside both sides of the roof to the ceiling outlets. The joint at the bottom of that "Y" has been a problem for some owners, in a few instances requiring removal of the rear fiberglass to get to the problem. One guy posted pics of his coach with the fiberglass removed showing the duct work. You may find that thread by searching the Winnebago owners area for "basement air" or something similar.