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Old 08-27-2017, 11:46 PM   #1
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Leaking leveler

new to rv'ing. Class A Itasca.
2006 Ford f550 v10, with 2007 Itasca Sunrise 35A.

just noticed with only front jacks lowered, right front appears to be leaking, such that there is - looks like trans fluid - oil on the top of the lowered round plate.
any comments / suggestions / guidance is appreciated.
Don
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:14 PM   #2
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I had the same problem with a rear jack, found out that the best solution was to replace that jack. They can be rebuilt but by the time you get someone to remove it, rebuild it and reinstall it it is almost the cost of the new jack.
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:28 PM   #3
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I'm fairly certain that the Kwikee 3000 jacks aren't rebuildable. Or at least, i wasn't able to find info for doing it on ours. Hopefully you have another cylinder that can be rebuilt. I tried the stop leak stuff but it seemed to only make the leaks worse. Not sure why since i read that some people had luck using the stuff. I ended up having to buy two new cylinders for ours. Replacing them wasn't difficult but they did cost a pretty penny.
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by car54don View Post
new to rv'ing. Class A Itasca.
2006 Ford f550 v10, with 2007 Itasca Sunrise 35A.

just noticed with only front jacks lowered, right front appears to be leaking, such that there is - looks like trans fluid - oil on the top of the lowered round plate.
any comments / suggestions / guidance is appreciated.
Don
Hey Don,
First off, thank you for advising us on year/make/model/chassis/engine and more on your coach. So many just come on and say: "I have a problem with my jacks, can you help?" and we have no clue as to what kind of rig, what kind of jacks and all that. Thanks again on that.

Anyway, before you run out and buy a new one, a hydraulic jack is a hydraulic jack. About 98% of them can be rebuilt. Now, the cost can vary all over the chart. Some of this depends on how mechanically minded you are. If you have the skills to R & R the jack in the first place, whether or not it's a rebuild job or replace with new, then the cost is seriously dropped. And, if you do have those skills and, AND, have some sort of hydraulic shop anywhere near you, a short trip to them might reveal they have what it takes to rip it apart, replace what's needed and, give it back to you for a minimum cost.

But, if, you don't have the skills, and, like it's been suggested that some models of levelers are not rebuildable, well then, get ready to open the wallet, WIDE!
Scott
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Old 08-30-2017, 12:01 PM   #5
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first thing, clean it completely, and find where its actually leaking from. it may be a hose, not a jack, or some part that does not require a complete new jack.
dont just throw parts at it. when you do that, its dollar bills, not parts you are using.
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Old 08-30-2017, 12:54 PM   #6
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Agree with azpete ... you could have a fitting or hose leak. Some fittings just need a wrench-tightening - hoses can be easily fabricated and replaced.

Let us know what results ... thanks
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudfrog View Post
I'm fairly certain that the Kwikee 3000 jacks aren't rebuildable. Or at least, i wasn't able to find info for doing it on ours. Hopefully you have another cylinder that can be rebuilt. I tried the stop leak stuff but it seemed to only make the leaks worse. Not sure why since i read that some people had luck using the stuff. I ended up having to buy two new cylinders for ours. Replacing them wasn't difficult but they did cost a pretty penny.
I'm in process of replacing one of my level best cylinders. I have a question for you about the foot pad. Did you have any trouble removing the bolt for the foot pad? When you reinstalled the pad, what threadlock did you use and what are the torque tightening specs for the foot pad bolt? Thanks
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:20 AM   #8
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I'm in process of replacing one of my level best cylinders. I have a question for you about the foot pad. Did you have any trouble removing the bolt for the foot pad? When you reinstalled the pad, what threadlock did you use and what are the torque tightening specs for the foot pad bolt? Thanks
After removing the jack from the MH, i put it into a vice to hold it firmly in place. There is a hole in the piston near the foot pad so i made sure to use an appropriately sized spanner wrench to keep the piston from rotating when i removed the bolt. Used a 3/4 inch drive socket (i forget the bolt head size) and breaker bar to remove the bolt. None of the four were as tight as i anticpated.

Cleaned the bolt's threads and added the locktight that i had on hand (blue stuff, forget the number) and then screwed it in. Used spanner wrench to hold piston steady and tightened. I don't have a big enough torque wrench so i just made sure to tighten the bajeebeez out of it. There is a lockwasher under the bolt head so i don't figure it's going anywhere.
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Old 02-14-2018, 01:47 PM   #9
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Thanks for the information.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:31 PM   #10
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Since the non functioning jacks are the farthest from the hydraulic pump, I'd suggest you check the ATF fluid level.

Also, minor leaks can be sealed using ATF Stop Leak using your favorite brand. Where it fails is that people insist on dropping their landing pads on uneven ground to often where it requires full extension of the jack ram. A set of thick landing pads helps avoid that. My '94 had a bad leak initially after I bought the RV on '04 and filled the pad nearly every time I dropped the jack. Using Stop Leak slowed, then stopped that problem over time...I tried to avoid uneven RV spaces and always used landing pads.
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:53 AM   #11
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hi, well it's time to repair / replace the kwikee level best 3000. cleaned all 'oil' and mess off the jack. operated jacks down and note that the leak is on top of jack from around the sensor. One post has a pic of sensor removed and appears to have o ring on sensor thread. Can I just remove the sensor and replace the o ring. Is there pressure if jacks are up??
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Old 08-19-2019, 10:17 PM   #12
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hi, well it's time to repair / replace the kwikee level best 3000. cleaned all 'oil' and mess off the jack. operated jacks down and note that the leak is on top of jack from around the sensor. One post has a pic of sensor removed and appears to have o ring on sensor thread. Can I just remove the sensor and replace the o ring. Is there pressure if jacks are up??
Don't want to steer you wrong but I think you are correct. My memory isn't the best but I think you can do just as your post descries. With jacks up, I don't think there should be any pressure. It might be a good idea to slowly loosen the top compression fitting a tad to make sure.
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Old 08-20-2019, 10:31 PM   #13
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So, with the jack still on frame, I used the irwin vise grip locking chain clamp (goes by other names also) to remove the sensor. Was actually fairly easy once I got my body contorted under the bus. Sensor had no o ring on it. Took sensor to local o ring specialty shop. Spent 25c Canadian. Reinserted sensor with o ring. So far no leaks. Operated jacks, let stand under pressure for 3 hours. No leak. fingers x'd. thanks to all for their input and wisdom.
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