New basement air, drawing to many amps???

[coopcolt]

Fired up my new basement air today, 46515-811.
Operated outside of the basement compartment,
I am thinking it is drawing too many amps.
Having said that I have NOT plug in the two extra
wires I have been told goes to the power control
module in the M/H that sheds power if it sees an
over current of 30 amps.

The first compressor is drawing 19 amp. and when
the second compressor turns on it dropped to 17 amp.
while running on the generator.

Does anyone know where the 2 wires goes on the
new air conditioner.

Thanks for any and all input.......coopcolt

[FleetMan]

I have seen ours draw as much as 23 amps at compressor startup, either compressor, and then drop back when running. Never gave it any serious thought since I never experienced any load shedding.

Can’t help you on the wiring.

[Jim_HiTek]

I've had my basement air draw 27 amps at times. After it gets the temp down a ways, it's running around 17 amps.

I think you're OK as long as it's not making any clanking, banging, squealing, or groaning noises while operating.

The two wires shut down compressor #2 and change the fan speed. You should have a nice electrical drawing from Winnebago that covers those wires and shows you where they go. Assuming you have a Winnie.

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Presuming the replacement units do not draw more current than specified by the manufacturer, what's the problem? If they are operating to spec then any issues with the amount of current used lies with whoever specified them as suitable replacements.


As for the load shedding, Winnebago has schematics of wiring and plumbing that go back 20 years or more. A phone call to Winne will get you pointed in the right direction.

[edgray]

Originally Posted by Solo_RV_Guy;4997060[B

]Presuming the replacement units do not draw more current than specified by the manufacturer, what's the problem?[/B] If they are operating to spec then any issues with the amount of current used lies with whoever specified them as suitable replacements........

I remember reading somewhere that the "new" replacement units could be used ONLY on coaches that were built with a 50 amp service. Older coaches with 30 amp service would not have enough capacity left to run the converter.

[AFChap]

Originally Posted by coopcolt

The first compressor is drawing 19 amp. and when
the second compressor turns on it dropped to 17 amp.

Sounds like only one compressor running ... as indicated by others with both compressors it will be pulling around 24.

I called RVP in Wichita and got their direction on how to hook up the wires. I don't recall now exactly what it was.

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Originally Posted by AFChap

Sounds like only one compressor running ... as indicated by others with both compressors it will be pulling around 24.

I called RVP in Wichita and got their direction on how to hook up the wires. I don't recall now exactly what it was.

RVP is Airxcel/Coleman, the company that almost went away after Dewey Coleman pissed off the board of directors after his dad called in every favor to get Sheldon Jr (Dewey) elected. Then came "Chainsaw Al" Dunlap who sold, closed and extracted all value from Coleman's brands and products and left a shell of the former outdoors powerhouse (The Coleman board ignored what Dunlap did to Sunbeam, including accounting fraud). It's a small corporate miracle that Airxcel bought the RV/manufactured housing side and kept it all going.


I'll waive at the factory when I'm back that way next week.

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Originally Posted by edgray

I remember reading somewhere that the "new" replacement units could be used ONLY on coaches that were built with a 50 amp service. Older coaches with 30 amp service would not have enough capacity left to run the converter.

The question is: do the replacement units draw significantly more (+10% or more) current than the old units? If so, it brings into question the suitability of the replacements. If not, it indicates the owner likely has other power-related issues.


It looks like the OP has gotten his load-shedding controls working now. We'll wait and see if his problems are now corrected.

[coopcolt]

It appears that the new Basement Air does draw about
5 more amps than the older unit.
First comp. draws 10.4 amps and both of the fans draw
a total of 6.2 amps, for a total of 16.6 amps.
Add the second amp at 10.4 and you have total of 27 amp.

Looks as tho the Generator will carry it pretty good a it will
have to 120 volt outputs.
I will have to add another 120 volt line at the power pedestal
to run the second comp. along with the 30 amp plug.
Making sure the number 2 circuit breaker is OFF.

Any one with a MO BETTER ideal??? coopcolt

[Jim_HiTek]

As long as there's no weird noises AND the voltage is better than ~110 volt per line (220 volt total) sounds like you're OK. Note that the thermo setup only sheds when it needs to. Like if it's 80 F inside the RV and you've set the AC for 74 F...that will run both compressors so if you try to run the MW, the #2 compressor will shut off, the electric WH element will shut off, the fan will slow, and the refer may switch to propane. At least that's what my EMS is designed for.

One thing I appreciate about the floor AC like yours is that it's so quiet. Once it's gotten the temp in the house down, I also like how it backs off and only runs the one compressor and slows the fan sort of just to maintain the temp. Really works slick.

Pretty neat design too. I serviced mine in April of this year and the squeals and thumps and what not all went away with all new caps for the compressors & fans, new pillow block ball bearings for both fan shafts, and 3 in 1 oil on all the motor bushings. It's so quiet now sometimes I can't tell if it's running without putting my hand near a vent.

[BCam]

Originally Posted by edgray

I remember reading somewhere that the "new" replacement units could be used ONLY on coaches that were built with a 50 amp service. Older coaches with 30 amp service would not have enough capacity left to run the converter.

Although the specs for the replacement units do say 50 amps, I called the vendor when I was considering buying one and they confirmed that 30 amps was OK, depending on what other power was being used, just like the original units. The power management system should take care of things. My presumption is that they changed the rating to minimize complaints since 30 amps was, and is, marginally sufficient. In any case, you can always switch off the breaker to compressor #2 after the initial cool down if you need to run more things.

Having said that, a 50 amp conversion seems like a relatively straight-forward and worthwhile project (although many of the places we camp only have 30 amp service). From what I've read, pulling new, larger gauge wiring to the breakers is the toughest part. My 2002's original transfer switch (since replaced for other reasons) was already rated for 50 amps which would have been the major cost of such a conversion. I haven't done this yet but it's on my list. There are several threads on this topic but this seems to be one of the better ones:

Converting to 50 amp. - Winnebago Owners Online Community

[Our05Winneba]

I have a 2005 Adventurer with basement air. What/where did you find a unit to replace this with?

Mine works fine right now, but I am concerned that someday it will not - so always looking ahead for replacement units.

Thanks!

[Jim_HiTek]

Just google the model number and several retail sources will show up.

They are fairly easy to service. A good shop should be able to do the job in 3 hours or so if they have the parts on hand. And an exceptional shop, maybe 2 hours assuming, in either case, that it just needs maintenance work and not to much in the way of repairs.

Check out my blog article on doing some maintenance on mine: '02 Coleman Heat Pump...

Did the service on mine in April of this year and 6 months later, after a summer of AC usage and now using it often for heating, it's working great.

[BCam]

Mine is a 2002 and, from what I've read, others have spent $$$$ on troubleshooting and repairs only to replace the unit in the end. IMHO, I'd rather put that money towards a replacement if the problem isn't something I can figure out and fix on my own. I'd do the replacement myself so my cost would be limited to the $2,200+ that the new unit would cost.

Fortunately, most problems are the result of bad capacitors, relays or circuit boards, all relatively easy/inexpensive fixes. A compressor replacement may be worthwhile in a fairly new unit, but not in an old one like mine. There's too much risk of another major issue occurring.