Community Forums

throbbin367 · 03-26-2019, 07:46 PM

I have a 04 journey, 3rd year of owning. Everything worked when I winterized it and yesterday I got it out for the summer and started filling with water and pumping out anti freeze.

Once the antifreeze was out of the lines I switched the bypass to fill the water heater. I know it filling with water because I always let it fill for a minute then pull the plug for a quick flush then put the plug in tight and finish filling.

I open the kitchen sink hot valve and I can hear the air pushing through but as soon as the air stops the pump shuts off, it’s at pressure. No water in bathroom sink or kitchen sink and to add to the strange I am not getting any water hot or cold to shower

Any ideas?

Old Scout · 03-26-2019, 07:57 PM

...lots of discussion on this forum about your issue....there is a one-way check valve in most RV water heaters that keeps hot water from tracking back thru the cold water lines....they are prone to failure or sticking shut....

cbeierl · 03-26-2019, 08:10 PM

A common problem is a failure of the check valve at the hot water exit on the water heater. Here's the Plumbing Diagram for your coach, but unfortunately the plumbing at the back of the water heater doesn't seem to be detailed.

A quick workaround for a failed check valve is to remove it, remove the 'guts', and put it back in place. You should be fine, but you'll need to replace it with a new valve before you next winterize the coach.

throbbin367 · 03-26-2019, 08:47 PM

So all the hot water goes back to that cluster manifold of pipes and is distributed from there. I pulled a panel so I could see the back of the hot water heater and there is a check valve there but was shocked to find it on the cold line

Petesflhtk · 03-26-2019, 09:16 PM

My 2002 had 2 back flow preventer, one went south, removed it and life has been good to date.. That was 3 years ago..

Old-Biscuit · 03-26-2019, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by throbbin367

So all the hot water goes back to that cluster manifold of pipes and is distributed from there. I pulled a panel so I could see the back of the hot water heater and there is a check valve there but was shocked to find it on the cold line

Winnebago likes to install 2
1 on cold inlet to WH Tank
and
1 on hot outlet from WH Tank

cbeierl · 03-26-2019, 10:09 PM

My 2005 Vectra has two check valves on the water heater, one on the inlet and the other on the outlet.

Rcdukes · 03-27-2019, 08:18 PM

I had the same problem with my '02 Journey. I removed both check valves and installed two ball valves to close when I winterize. Works great with no flow problems.

throbbin367 · 03-27-2019, 10:03 PM

Confirmed, mine has a check valve on the cold inlet and the hot outlet for the water heater like everyone else’s and the plastic piece of junk came apart. And some much fun to try to reach.

Rcdukes, I was wondering if that would work, then I wouldn’t have to deal with check valves

Old-Biscuit · 03-27-2019, 11:58 PM

My Atwood water heater has 3 shutoff valves....NO check valves

Cold Inlet
Bypass
Hot Outlet

Normal service
Open Cold/Hot...Close Bypass

Winterize
Open Bypass....Close Cold/Hot

Rcdukes · 03-28-2019, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by throbbin367

Confirmed, mine has a check valve on the cold inlet and the hot outlet for the water heater like everyone else’s and the plastic piece of junk came apart. And some much fun to try to reach.

Rcdukes, I was wondering if that would work, then I wouldn’t have to deal with check valves

Yup! I have attached a photo of my valves I installed if it uploaded properly. My WH is to the right. The bypass valve is located above in this photo.

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imnprsd · 04-26-2019, 01:31 AM

On my 2004 Itasca Horizon 40AD I REMOVED both check valves even though it was the top check-valve (the hot one) that was stuck.

See this post for pictures and details on what to expect:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/wate...ix-417529.html

I first thought my by-pass valve was the problem. It wasn't. The problem was those check valves. These cause lots of hot water problems -- and they really are not needed. I would take them out. Both of them!

Luck you, you will not need new parts, because you can reuse your old check valve (2" nipple) by drilling out the guts!

TIPS:

* Don't over tighten your plastic nuts.
* Re-use the little, critical rubber donut-washers if you don't have replacements (which you can only get at a RV store... unless you get creative and cannibalize parts at HD or Lowes.) So if you can, have a couple of these donut like washers ready if you need them. They often go bad, but the plastic elbow is often reusable.
* Use a 1" wrench to get enough leverage. (Channel-locks will probably not work.)
* Use pipe thread tape to but back your old nipple (check valve inside after you drill this out.)
* And if you have time, I would load your water heater up with vinegar 50/50 and let it sit overnight. Then flush it real good to get out the sediment... Then do the check valve repair. (Besides, you can always move the coach to get away from the vinegar smell and the flushing mess.)